Used Timmy tool, don’t have Makita router, futures 2 pass kit. I just read it’s for post laminatiin, but hoping I can use it pre lam? Greatly appreciate all you Masters!!
I’d say that’s too deep. Raise it up so that the flange is closer to the level of the old glass. That way you don’t have a big dip in the new glass where air bubbles can form or an area you’re going to have to fill with a lot of resin.
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A little too deep for me too. You want the flange under the foam level everywhere but the closest too.
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Is it ok to use this 2 pass kit before I glass the blank? I didn’t want to shell out the extra money for the one shot.
I will try another practice and post it up in an hour or so. Thanks 
Good on you for doing practice routs.
I would not buy a one pass kit if I already had a two pass kit for home use.
I ended up with 4 different install kits and have yet to sell a board to recover the cost of any of it…
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You can see I made a simple wood jig in that last pic but i was not confident in it doing the flange depth.
I rout just deep enough that you can feel the edge of the foam when you run your fingers over it. Just a “”nt hair As I once heard Mr. Phillips say. You’re too deep . But remember; a little resin and Cabosil will float the box up where it belongs.
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By the By; The “Two Pass” is the precursor to the “One Pass”. Two pass was orinally the under the glass system. The “One Pass” bit tears up glass. That’s why it’s not used post glass.
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jrandy,
Which router jig set up do you like the best for easy of use and results?
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I got my one pass system from @OSS1, I would trust him as a Futures subject matter expert.
I have only used it once or twice along with homemade Futures fixtures once or twice.
Once you try a real Futures fixture, the homemade ones do seem a little clunky, but homemade can definitely work and save some money esp. if you are not making boards for money.
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Well I decided to do one more practice route and lucky I did. Let me tell you. I am using a cheap one speed router and it appears a bit shorter housing than the makitas.
Well low and behold I fired it up and the bit flew out and took a huge chunk out of the practice blank. Not only that it happend twice more in a row and then once I thought I had it squared away the flange route I ran was way too wide, twice. The bit is too short to work with this router so I have to smash the router futher down into the housing to get it to work. I have layered a bunch of masking tape above the exact point where the bit will stay put and straight in the router. Wish me luck for another test run tomorrow. Very glad I decided to practice once more which turned into 5 more failed attempts. I have one more nice sized piece of foam and will get practice using the shims from the looks of it.
Feeling blessed and taking it extra slow with this last half of the build. Thank you Masters!
J
The whole bit flying out of the router thing sounds very dangerous.
If you are using masking tape to hold it in the collet then even more so.
I would stop and take some time to figure out another bit and (perhaps a bushing) and template combination that can do the work without the element of danger.
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Ditto what jrandy said. Safety before cost. My be worth borrowing or buy an appropriate router rather than to get injured and have to pay doctor/hospital bills.
Maybe considered having a shop install your boxes. Yell them you are on a budget and what to glass your own board but don’t have the correct router for fin box installation.
As a semi-related note, you might want to check out Rock and Sea Garage Board Shop’s video on comparing the older vs. newer one-pass Futures router bit.
In short, if you buy the newer router bit, you will need the newer Timmy Tool (bit depth adjustment tool).
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One pass is easy and quick once you’re used to it. If you go awhile with out using it, take a test pass on an old blank or board to be sure you have it set right and remember how to line it up right and left side. If you are doing a lot of color work the two pass bit is better for post glass installs.