Yeah that was occ’s board…I sprayed it white so I could ride it…went great it was a star-fin…ive seen the reo pic…not the cutty…the star-fin loves the cutty…i think it was 6’2" maybe 4"…85…?maybe 86…
Hey Shane,
I think the country is so lucky that you were born here,you were and always will be a great surfing legend
and ambassador for the life style.
Rod.
Hi Cheyne,
I too would love to see a shot of your current quiver.
At the top of the main forum page, there is a step-by-step guide to posting pics on Swaylocks, here’s the link:
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=177828
Thanks again for contributing here on Swaylocks, I can’t think of anywhere else where influential people who have shaped a sport so much are so accessible and willing to share! More stoke to ya!!!
Kind Regards,
Matt.
Quote:
…i like your skate shot where was that…how are the parks now here we were running from the cops and now council are making the best skate parks for free…we still lived in the best time…i still love to skate…my daughter and son skate too…
it was at nedlands skatepark, right by the swan river here in Perth, West Oz…
Now is a bit different to bondi wall, cammeray wall, northbridge pipe, greenwich boat ramp, avalon wall, mona vale primary, dee why hill, and your days with Robbie Bain and Thor Svenson [sp?] on the Coca Cola skate team, eh Cheyne ?
do you skate burleigh bowl, or caloundra…THAT place looks S-I-C-K !!! Are your kids natural footers too ?
I hope you get the photo posting sorted…I sent you a private message… basically, if you follow the instructions at the ‘sticky : posting photos’ thread at the top of the forum, you’ll probably be right [it took me a few goes, but keep at it, because I’d love to see your boards please ! ]
And, how about the other dimensions of that waimea single fin board I posted on the other thread ?
…WAS it about 5’8 x 20 x 2 3/4 , 11" nose, 17-18 " tail… or something close ??
…how about the fin …9" deep, 5-6 " rake , 4-5" base ?
[…just guesses…]
ben [“chip”]
Cheyne, I think this board is the one I saw you ride in Wrightsville Beach, NC. Forget the contest; you won though. Took out the “local” hero Wes Laine. Only time I ever saw you surf in person. Tiny waves; this wave pool may have been bigger?
Solosurfer, I think this is also the board you were asking about earlier.
1985 OP Pro:
Rob,
I wish there was a way to show that final heat between Cheyne and Curren on swaylocks and let the board deside. That would be a cool experiment. Yes, that is the board. I don’t think the tail on it was totally round or totally swallow. If memory serves me correctly it was a strange tail.
Quote:
Rob,I wish there was a way to show that final heat between Cheyne and Curren on swaylocks and let the board deside. That would be a cool experiment. Yes, that is the board. I don’t think the tail on it was totally round or totally swallow. If memory serves me correctly it was a strange tail.
solosurfer,
I actually have that contest on vhs somewhere. There is some great surfing by both Curren and Cheyne in the final. If I can remember correctly, I think the tail on Cheyne’s board was a squash. The tape has footage of the final as well as his semi against Wes Laine. If it weren’t for copyright laws, I’d be happy to post some clips here or on boardfolio.com.
sold it in France so I could eat…
Pro surfing has come a long way. But is that a good thing?
Cheyne…you provide a very intriguing x-ray into that world. thanks for the words.
Drew
Cheyne, Rob, Solo, Chip, Everyone,
GREAT Thread, been watching for ages,
Cheyne, looking forward to the shots,
Happy Surfing,
Josh.
this was a great board…lots of roll in the bottom…that was the first op…Preston Murray and I were best friends he and i had been practicing backside 360 all summer…he said when he saw me lining it up he was going “no way not on this section” the wave was closing out and heaving to the beach…i didnt think i would make it either…it was like something super natural helped me around…it was the first backside 360 ever on the pro tour…what a day…one the best days ever i will never forget it…the crowd roared when they witnessed a new move in surfing…I was exstatic…I sold that board to my brothers mate Dave little he still has it
aloha cheyne…82…or 81 not sure
Incredible sequence and POV from Flame.
surfing behind someone with a hand-held camera in a water housing while they do roundhouses around you ? Try it sometime ! ’ Not easy’ would be an understatement.
I wish I’d kept THIS issue !! It kindled in me some kind of spark for taking water shots…
Flame has been at it a long time, eh ? and despite his recent life threatening illness and operation, continues to inspire…
The combination of him and Cheyne produced a great spread…I’d be really keen to see the other shots in that article Rob, if you ever wanted to , p.m. me if you like.
Thanks heaps for posting that !
I hope ‘Flame’ has another go at this one day [new housing and camera needed ? ] when he’s well enough to paddle back out …
ben
Very cool thread. Had no idea this guy was doing this stuff back then AND on what was concidered “strange” equipment. Anybody else dying to surf a winged keel now?? I certainly am!! Actually if anyone has please share the a bit about the experience.
I’m not sure if this sequnce is on a winged keel, but have a go on a board like this if you get a chance.
My friend Jim and I loved this design, he rode his as a twinny, me single, my shapes.
The shaper I worked with at the time use to look and just shake his head negatively. He laughed and commented that if we go to do a bottom turn it will just go straight up, not draw out turns.
We just said ‘yeeaaahhhh’, and went out and did just that!
Move forward and progress. Try everything.
Quote:
Very cool thread. Had no idea this guy was doing this stuff back then AND on what was concidered “strange” equipment. Anybody else dying to surf a winged keel now?? I certainly am!! Actually if anyone has please share the a bit about the experience.
The winged keel…
Mine feels great on forehand cutties, but seems to ‘hang up’ in the lip backhand for some reason …any thoughts, Cheyne ? [it may be my 7’er]
Certainly feels positive off the bottom, though, forehand AND backhand…in fact, I PREFER the feeling on my backhand bottom turns.
Feels really stable noseriding [7’ single x 20 x 2 7/8].
If you can get one, give a winged keel a try ! [I never thought I’d say that, maybe 10 years ago ! Cheyne was / is onto something here…]
ben
I want to put it in the 6’4 Bob Cooper pintail next… and then maybe in my ‘stubbie’ or ‘greenpin’ next [both are 5’7]
it could be many things hangen you up in the lip…possibble the fin…ben lexcen used to say to me and Geoff would also say something similar…you take all the fins out of a board and they all go relatively the same…put a fin or 2 or three or a configuration the star-fin…they will all react and go differently…so the fins are important…the star-fin…is a fast fin…thruster go side to side to go forward and twins…same…the starfin reacts and goes forward…if you drop down a wave with a star-fin and a guy on a thruster and hit your turns at the same time you will pull away from them as quick as you put pressure on the turn…and is a big difference…I ride star-fins to have fun…the cutback with the star-fin is unmatched in my eyes as you accelerate around the corner…i sometimes get speed on the cut back with thrusters… usually that is from the wave power not the fins…the thruster is a fun board too and they love a snap in the pocket…with a bit of give.(slide)very easy to get vertical…they both have good and bad caracteristics…ive got a board 5’ 2" star fin that i thought was goin to be great in small surf…turns out goes super fast and great for busting airs cause of the speed 23 wide 3 1/4 thick… I hardly ever ride it only when long walls …mostly 5’ 9" …this has alot of new touches to it…then I ride 8’for small and 9’…
and tow I think you know
HI Cheyne, Batch says he has your trophy and big check from a contest down at Ocean Beach, San Diego. He said to say hi. DR Hows your chess game ?
that buddist board shot…that board was extreme…refined it would have been way ahead of its time…that board tought me alot and at that time…I had the design from Ben lexcen…it was just a matter of refing it …that is super close to what i have now.,…just 20 years ahead…from that…that was 84…roll how do i download pics…that pic sitting at cave rock with mike ginz…perfect day…
Right click on the photo with the mouse and select “Save As” from the menu is the standard method!
I was interested to read your comments about the star fin and cutbacks…I’ve always thought that for all their advantages thrusters never quite deliver the kind of maximum power in cutbacks and snaps that you could get on a single fin. The problem of course was that it was so much harder to set up the manoeuver in the first place…thrusters allow a freedom to adjust your line as you hit a bottom turn that singles (or at least the ones I surfed) never allowed. I surfed a few of Geoff’s boards in the mid-seventies but could never quite get one that felt right. They were a bit before your time though, the kind of boards that surfers like Mark Warren, Steve Jones and Bruce Raymond were surfing in say '75. I found them to be easy surfing sort of boards, easy to stay in control and run through a standard repetoire but hard to really jam hard in a cutback or snap.