i was wondering if any of you guys might know what ever happened to chine rails ? i remember seeing a few boards with them in the late 80’s. i have looked around, but not found any real details on them. what was the main purpose of that type of rail ? have any of you ever experimented with them ? thanks, brian
Brian, Here`s some food for thought… http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/274.html http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/446.html http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/555.html http://www.thirdcoastsurf.com/summer_edition.htm http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/523.html http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/3f3dc92a_74d/bc/My+Photos/__hr_George+Greenough+paddle+fin.jpg?bcPNdP_A5GJo115b 
Brian, Here`s some food for thought… http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/274.html http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/446.html http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/555.html http://www.thirdcoastsurf.com/summer_edition.htm http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/523.html http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/3f3dc92a_74d/bc/My+Photos/__hr_George+Greenough+paddle+fin.jpg?bcPNdP_A5GJo115b
Note: my previous Greenough chine rail, edge boards and Paddle Fin photos were posted, and open correctly, with Netscape 7.1 - 7.0.
Note: my previous Greenough chine rail, edge boards and Paddle Fin photos were posted, and open correctly, with Netscape 7.1 - 7.0.
I have not shaped any chined rails but I know a guy who surfs a Parmenter short board that has fully chined rails (ie the whole length of the board) and he rips on it… so there can’t be anything TOO wrong with them…
I have not shaped any chined rails but I know a guy who surfs a Parmenter short board that has fully chined rails (ie the whole length of the board) and he rips on it… so there can’t be anything TOO wrong with them…
Chines work well with the right board. They’re a great way to give a wide thick board a thinner rail and to get the board to the rail quicker. They don’t need to go nose to tail. usually they go from about a foot from the nose to around mid point or sometimes back a bit more. The design I’ve had great success with is a low rockered stinger type “fish” with the chines running off the wings. You want to leave your rails full at the bottom and put the chines in after fine sanding the bottom as there needs to be 2 defined edges at the chine. If you don’t have these edges, the board will feel mushy. The sander needs to put the edges back on and not sand thru. For an extra thrill, put a slight concave in the chine in the back half of the board if the chines go back that far. aloha, TW
Chines work well with the right board. They’re a great way to give a wide thick board a thinner rail and to get the board to the rail quicker. They don’t need to go nose to tail. usually they go from about a foot from the nose to around mid point or sometimes back a bit more. The design I’ve had great success with is a low rockered stinger type “fish” with the chines running off the wings. You want to leave your rails full at the bottom and put the chines in after fine sanding the bottom as there needs to be 2 defined edges at the chine. If you don’t have these edges, the board will feel mushy. The sander needs to put the edges back on and not sand thru. For an extra thrill, put a slight concave in the chine in the back half of the board if the chines go back that far. aloha, TW
wow, so much great info. thanks guys !! brian
wow, so much great info. thanks guys !! brian
I’ve been working with a variation of chines I call “Split Vee” - Fucken hard to explain, maybe similar to a Tri - plane hull, but the middle panel is single to double concave and the vee line is curved along the rail about 3 - 4 inches in, rather than a straight line. I like to believe it makes it easier to break the line the board is following and go into a turn at high speed. The chine line is like vee under the front foot but on the side of the board that is in the water when board’s on a rail! Make sense? http://www.speedneedle.com.au
I’ve been working with a variation of chines I call “Split Vee” - Fucken hard to explain, maybe similar to a Tri - plane hull, but the middle panel is single to double concave and the vee line is curved along the rail about 3 - 4 inches in, rather than a straight line. I like to believe it makes it easier to break the line the board is following and go into a turn at high speed. The chine line is like vee under the front foot but on the side of the board that is in the water when board’s on a rail! Make sense? http://www.speedneedle.com.au
I can’t stand chines…they also suck to glass.
I can’t stand chines…they also suck to glass.
Chines are fun to shape.Block sand the bottom of the blank last after cleaning up the rails…this defines the line on the blank.Do the same thing when sanding and polishing…kind of backwards but not too hard. R.B.
Chines are fun to shape.Block sand the bottom of the blank last after cleaning up the rails…this defines the line on the blank.Do the same thing when sanding and polishing…kind of backwards but not too hard. R.B.
Yea chines are fun on mid to ling boards. makes respond great, and dont catch as much on therail on hardturns. I like em … just some people think look odd. think thats why dont sell as fast dunno.
Yea chines are fun on mid to ling boards. makes respond great, and dont catch as much on therail on hardturns. I like em … just some people think look odd. think thats why dont sell as fast dunno.
Tape up your chine line- yep, with masking tape. Gives a clean crisp edge… http://www.speedneedle.com.au