Chris Brock's Morning of the Earth board

Have gone through all the MOTE and Stubbie threads, and I have to agree that  Chris surfing in the “treehouse” scene is some of the best in the film. The boad he is riding looks to be a bit shorter and wider than the board that he is surfing in Sea of Joy for example. Read somewhere that the board is around 6’ but the outline looks pretty paralel and with a huge rounded squaretail. Shorter and wider than this one:

This old tracks article by McTavish refers to similar boards

Thinking of shaping a 6´4 version of Chris board, seem to have a fetsih for these widetailed boards.



You own THAT board!!!!! you lucky bastard. Im jealous. what a cool ride. I watched Inner most limits of pure fun when I was in my 20z and those guys are my HEROS. We all owe GG a huge high five. Bitchn soundtrack too. Anyways back to your board. Have you checked out Morning of the Earth Pretty cool stuff. Shape ON . ENJOY!!!!

No I dont own that board, just posted it for comparison. The morning of the earth board just looks right for our waves, but tweaking the bottom and rails a bit. Anyone have an outline laying around…

He was still in Lennox zone few years back…very friendly and stoked man. Came out of water at boat launch with surf mat and big smile! Was happy to chat bout old days etc…I might have a phone # somewhere. He was still involved with surfboard industry.


Here’s a thread from a while back…

He’s still shaping.

The description on how to ride them… the low weighted bent knees driving style fit the stuff I’m doing to a “T”. Tri or big based single fin “driver”.  There’s also some inspirational Greenough/McTavish history and inspiration I discuss in:

**(and more eye candy) :slight_smile:

**Hope this provides some fuel for your fire!


Hi there Sami !!


 ....if you can get hold of a copy of the dvd 'Believe' ,  they interview Chris Brock there , show him surfing some great waves [still with [his smooth] style] , and show his rider / younger test pilot Marcus Aboody , absolutely RIPPING on some of Chris's updated stub-type boards ...nice stuff !!


 Chris seems like one of the nicest , most surf-stoked surfer shapers around !


 I really like the look of his boards , and his positive outlook !





That links a fizzer Cutty ( for me at least )

is this the one you mean ?

Fabric Keepers : Brocky and the Fish Killah

That’d be the one.

Not sure what happened there.

Deadshaper,  If I had some extra cash or for that matter any cash yopu would have an order for one of those boards.  Have you ever used that basic design as a quad ?

Thanks for all the info guys! Brian Hilbers GeeBee has outline very reminisent of Brock's MOTE board. But apart from the scouped nose Chris board does not apeear to have an s-deck and I wonder if he kept his rails high ala GG, when Nat and wayne where using the Cabell inspired lower rails?

Bob Mctavish comment regarding sluggs do shed some light on the matter,


" Narrow boards with low rails do it by having a drawn streamlined plan shape and pure flat planing area all the way to the rails.
They're fast when running flat up on a wall.
Excellent cruisers!

However, wider boards with round rails and wide tails don't necessarily put you out of the picture. Their speed potential is locked in, and you are the key.
They can be banked higher, and if they are finned and foiled correctly, they really take off while sitting up on their edge.
This is due to the centrifugal force gained from the arc pressing you into the board and greatly increasing the board's momentum "



Sami’s quest is a good one. Brock and George influenced Merrick in the early day (70-72) development of the tri hull.  The Wilderness presence was also very prevalent in Santa Barbara as Cundith, Richie, Peter, Bob Duncan, pumped out displacement hulls from the old ‘icehouse’ off Cabrillo Blvd. .  They had a devout following and were our friendly ‘nemesis’ of sorts as I introduced the Hynson shaped natural rockered full length downrailed Bahne boards to the area.

Bradbury still had a solid crew as did Yater, but the leading edge was Greenough inspired vs Hy-Dif-Brewer.

I was looking at Michael Peterson’s segment in Morning of the Earth on a single fin and his surfing was ridiculously ahead of his time. So fluid with a classic beautiful style while making moves that are common now. It says in the film “MP won virtually ever contest in Australia from 1972 to 1977”.

I can see why.

Mc Tavish’s statement that you include in this thread are spot on and prophetic. Yes, narrow boards go rail to rail quicker, but the truth is wide boards are drivier. Part of that equation has been addressed with the advent of concaves to provide something to push against when riding narrow boards. Completely flat bottomed boards are very difficult to perfect because there isn’t any resistance to draw from to leverage turns other than the fins. No traction so to speak. Hard edges, and 'implied edges (aka concave) help provide resistance aka leverage of fins to rail creating directional stability.

The supposition that wide boards or boards with vee are slow is absurd. I love combining vees and concaves to provide definitive sweet spots knowledgeable surfers can play with.

Who wants a board that you get bored with after a few go outs.

A boring board is a bad bad board!


Completely flat bottomed boards are very difficult to perfect because there isn't any resistance to draw from to leverage turns other than the fins. No traction so to speak. Hard edges, and 'implied edges (aka concave) help provide resistance aka leverage of fins to rail creating directional stability.

Hey DS, the fastest board i ever had was a flat bottom keel fish with shin scrapingly sharp edges from in front of fins to the tail. I always wondered why it was ( or felt ) the fastest. Maybe this is why??. It also felt slippery, but in a good way, i could track if i wanted, but never had to "unstick" it, it just went where i wanted.

I would bet that board wouldn’t have felt anywhere near the same if the razor sharp tails weren’t combined with those long based leverage producing keel fins. That made all the difference in the world for that board. The combo of the two were very dependent on one another to give you the speed and drive. Keels Keels kinda act like quads positioned out near the rails.

Flat IS fast. NO doubt abou it. If flat is combined with really hard edges the boards take on a completely different personality than if they have soft rails. The chineless Wilderness displacement snubbies had really soft rails up front, and the tail rails were not real hard, but what they also had was a HUGE mondo glass on flex fin and DEAD FLAT tail rocker. That combo was one of the reasons Richie West could ride a 5’10" in solid double overhead Rincon… and rip while doing it. The Oz archives that are cited in the first of this thread depicts the fins used on the 1967 to 1969 Vee bottoms of the day… they were mostly 10" to 13" deep. The smaller fins were a G&S Hynson designed "Hy Performance "fin and the Greenough Stage fins. A bunch of them had REALLY WIDE bases and high aspect tips. These fins were crucial to those wide backed vee bottoms because nearly all of them had pretty soft tail rails.Sometimes they’d roll over onto the rail and just keep on going. I used mine to learn how to switch stance; I’d jump up as a regular foot and just lean into the turns, once I hit the top, I’d fall back into a cutback. It took a good amount of time before I learned how to swith brains and snap hard cutbacks.

The distribution of those boards is really indicative of the era of transition. The Vee Bottoms looked like a long board blank with a chopped of tail. That’s because… they were! It all happened so fast. It was about a 24 to 30 month era. The chamfered tailblocks were an attempt to produce a more finished product…an acceptable end to the tail of an otherwise thick aft section. The distribtion moved back in regards to foil becuz the tails were lopped off. They rode differently. Not bad… just different. Displacement hulls reflect that disposition.

Greenough’s spoons were about adjustable tail rocker as needed from flex. Fast when driving, releasing when pushed hard for turns and cutties.

I’ve known Marc Andreini for a long time, and he said it very well, that displacement hulls build speed in swoops of powerful turns, McTavish alludes to that in his dissertation on this thread. Marc said “hulls will fly…building terminal speed”… terminal speed is an excellent way of saying it.

The Stoker V Machines (SVM’s for short) are different in some respects and similar in others. They are more a cross between a hull and a high performance shortboard. I call them “HPD’s” or, Hihg Performance Drivers.

Hulls are fast, SVM’s are quick.

Does that make sense?

…and yes, SVM’s can go great as quads, but Stoker himself is opposed to offering them that way. He’s a purist, old skool, and his style isn’t suited well to a quad. OTOH, I’m a realist. If the people want them, and they work, why not?  I’ll just continue to devlop that area and we can agree to call them “UVM’s” or Ultimate V Machines…


Hi sami

The board Chris is riding in Morning of the Earth is the ‘Flex Tail’ he and George developed together. It is a really complex design in that the tail of the board is made in two ‘layers’ allowing it to flex. There weren’t many of these around as it was an experimental design that chris and george concieved together and I think it would be pretty hard, if not impossible to reproduce.

I will try and post a pic of the board, and will ask Chris next time i talk to him about other details of that board (he has a pretty good memory about these sort of things).

Actually just found an article that has a good pic of the flex tail on

You can see how the tail design is done in 2 layers allowing flex.


Sorry, here’s a better sized image



This is why I love this forum, heaps of great info and history, thanks again! Suspected Chris involvement with wilderness would show more GG influence in his boards, than Nat or Wayne. Richie West surfing in Crystal Voyager is aslo fantatstic, but IMHO he has to nurse his turns more compared to Brock. Then again most of his surfing in that movie apart from the scene at sandspit with GG is backside. But it looks like they might be using the same rails.

I'm actually not shooting for an exact copy of Chris board, just using the outline, lack of tail rocker and setting it up as a single fin. Maybe with some small side fins for a pivot point.Thinking of maybe copying the bottom and rails of my 6'4 larry mabile whitepony. Displacement entry, flat to vee with a hint of single concave and flat after the fin. That bottom combined with his rails are magic in our soft waves.You can get more planning area with the wide squaretail compared to the whitepony's swallow and maybe more drive from the single compared to the keels when just running flat and milking to connect sections. On rail the keels might have more drive but more drag compared to a single when runningf flat according to my sailboat building freind.

I'm looking for the early entry and drive of the widetail, to be able to connect a few sections when the wave almost dissapears before reapearing on the inside bank.Maybe full 60/40 rails, less roll in the bottom should mean more drive.So all I'm using is basically Brock's ouline, rocker and fin setup.

Funny, I found those shots of the flextail before posting this therad, but thought that can't be the same board! will have to have another look.





“Maybe full 60/40 rails, less roll in the bottom should mean more drive”

How does that work?

Just asking as been following that young whippersnapper Thomo’s work with his current shapes and interesting take on hydronamics and looking at rails a bit differently than I used to.


I ment more drive from the using less roll in the bottom. To much roll combined with a short rail line means less down speed, maybe I’m oversimplyfing things . Not from the rails.