Looking to get one of these boards.I went on both websites to get a little info of each one.They recommend to go 4-6inches shorter than my typical shortboard.That would be a board the size between 5’8" to 5’10" for me.So,my question is,if I go shorter do my dimensions(with,thick)go bigger,and if I go longer do they go smaller?thanks,steve
You should just order a Brom board. Tell him the length you want and he will take care of the rest.
Those other boards won’t give you the glide and speed of Broms design.
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You should just order a Brom board. Tell him the length you want and he will take care of the rest.Those other boards won’t give you the glide and speed of Broms design.
do you also go 4-6 inches shorter on those boards?
I’m 5’10" and I ride a 5’8". It is the size that works best for me. I would keep it between 5’11" and 5’8.
Whhooooo now! Larry Marble is no slouch when it comes to old school fish design. He was taught by one of the ultimate fish masters, Skip what was his name?..errr yeah Frye. He’s been shaping fishes way before this current “fish fad” ever got off the ground. Kane Garden boards are glassed at PSG, which does outstanding work. I’d put a KG fish up against any fish for quality and durability. And I mean against Brom, Lis, Frye, CI etc.
Just my 10 cents,
-Jay
Jay, you are absolutley right the KG fish is up there with the very best… BUT they, like CI go with a thinner hybrid shape. This is great for someone transitioning from a modern thruster but these boards tend to loose that special glide/speed that you get with Broms boards. By watching the vids. on both the KG and CI site you can see this. Granted on the CI site you are watching two of the best surfers in the world.
I’m just glad to see the interest in the fish design this means we will all have access to these boards for hopefully a long time to come. The very best surfing from the fish design is still just being realized.
I know I am simply hooked… have been for the last five years…
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http://www.surfenginez.com/I’m 5’10" and I ride a 5’8". It is the size that works best for me. I would keep it between 5’11" and 5’8.
How much do you weigh?I’m 5’7" and 165 pounds.My shortboard is 6’2".I live in Virginia Beach where the waves for the most part are small and weak so floatation is a big concern to me.I also have a 6’0" JC stingray,19"wide and 2.2thick epoxy board which floats me great.
Actually the Kane Garden boards I’m talking about are 100% old school. Ply keel Fins, big butt cracks, wide and thick like my women. Larry Marble is a very good old school shaper. He even makes a big 10 ft wing swallow fish thing. I saw some guy ripping on one South Garbage last winter. Make your eyes pop out!
-Jay
Actually, if you read the Kane Garden website, it specifically says that Kane Garden does NOT build retro boards. The boards have modern characteristics. I was learned of this info the other day. These boards (Kane Garden) use a slightly different fin, and the fins, I believe, are not perfectly parallel to the stringer. I could be wrong.
Also, the CI is not old school either. It has different bottom contours.
But, granted, I like the Kane Gardens. Pay close attention to the deck rocker. It should be flat in the nose, not upturned.
Also, you should ride it with really long, curly or wavey hair, a headband like John McEnroy, wrist bands too, really short shorts (preferrably courderoy), and a very good tan. Plus, if you get barreled and don’t put up the peace sign, then you have NOT gained the total fish experience.
Seriously, I’m having one shaped too, but it’s a single fin, with a narrow pin tail and a 11 inch nose. Just kidding. Again.
But I really am having one shaped. 6,2 by 22 by 18 nose by 17 tail (two pins, not a swallow).
But I just can’t find the retro shorts. I want them short and TIGHT.
That’s all true, but if you ask Larry Marble to custom shape you an old school fish, it will be correct and it will work as good as any out there, he will do that. The website posts what most people want, modern 2004 fish’s, In my opinion modern fish’s are just shrunk down hybrids or fun boards. Old school fish’s are a breed to themselves, nothing surf’s or looks like them. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not a big old school fish fan, I think they look cool, I’ll take technology over old school any day. But if your going to get a fish, get a fish. Not a hybrid.
The opinions of Resinhead are not expressively the opinions of Swaylocks, any reasonable facsimile is purely coincidental. Void where prohibited, lavas las manos.
-Jay
I work next door from PSG/Kane Garden. Layrmo is one of the best guys in the business, and the glassing is top notch, I"m getting a fish for myself. All you need to do is tell him your ability weight and height and he will hook you up big time.
I would go for the Brom fish…
I live in Spain and if there was a cheap way to ship boards from USA to Spain now i would own a Steve Brom Fish and a Stu Kenson Mutant shape… the thing is that is cheaper to go there to USA and get boards with myself on the plane.
If you want the real thing, go for the Brom (just my opinion) if you want something “user friendly” you can choose something as the CI.
Anyway, as far as i know, Steve Brom’s haven’t their fins parallel to the stringer, but close to.
Good waves!
“But if your going to get a fish, get a fish. Not a hybrid.”
Well, on that note, I met with Larry yesterday for a good hour or so in his shaping room. I’m sure if you leaned on him a little, you could get a 100% retro board from him. But even though he uses double foiled wood keels…They are toed in 1/4 inch…making it a “hybrid”. Old school fish had parellel double foiled keels with no cant or “angle” .
Lairmo said if you incorporate any concave whatsoever into the bottom, the fins appear to be actually leaning inwards. Something he said looked god awful. His bottoms are dead flat on the fish, and slightly double concaved on twinzers. I love picking his brain because we see eye to eye on many things. He stated that nobody talks about the widths of these boards. For years he has tested the fish and twinzer designs, taking a leap forward from what Will jobson was doing.
“when you have a wider tail, it makes the board more difficult to go rail to rail. If you put concave in there, now it suctions you to the face, and makes the board more tracky. Thats why mine are dead flat.” You can use a spiral vee or mild double, as long as the stringer is higher than the rails. The CI fish uses a single foiled fin, set with 1/4 in toe, on a slight single to double running off the tail. This works because of the toed in flat side fins. “If your going double foiled…no concave!”
i had a lairmo fish, and it worked great. flat bottom, double foiled keel fins, but paralell to the stringer, as far as i could tell. i’m 6’ and 160, i rode a 5’8 x 21 x 2 5/8, and it floated me great, and worked in everything from knee high slop, to 1.5x OH beachbreaks.
if you dont go with that, then i’d say go to pavel, and get a quad canard fin setup, with fiberglass lokbox fins of course :]
if you want to have the speed of a fish, but have it work a bit more like a thruster, go with the CI fish.
with any of the big names in fish design, i really dont think you can go wrong.
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“But if your going to get a fish, get a fish. Not a hybrid.”
if thats so then
if your going to get surfboard get a surfboard (old redwood without a fin. a true surfboard?) . not a foam/fiberglass toy. Traditional fish have there place but modern “hybrid” “Fish” will out perform a relic IMHP… ----------------------------- "For years he has tested the fish and twinzer designs, taking a leap forward from what Will jobson was doing.
“when you have a wider tail, it makes the board more difficult to go rail to rail. If you put concave in there, now it suctions you to the face, and makes the board more tracky.” Lokbox…I made some modern hybrid fishes based on Will Jobsons twinzer design. I use a double concave and slight veed tail with shallow outward tail channels and a twinzer set up…the one I am riding now really works good in 2’ to head high surf…anything bigger and it gets squirrely.