I’m planning to shape a 6’10 Mid lenght surfboard inspired on the **CI Mid **model. I’ve been collecting some info of this model but I only managed to design the outline, some foam distribuition and the rocker. I’m still a bit blind on rails and bottom design…
Does anyone have a Mid and some good will to help me with the rail design? (a template of the front / mid and tail rail or photo or a Cad drawing of the rail design would be awesome)? I think this board has some 60/40 tucked rails but i don’t have enought knowledge to be sure and make it by my own.
The bottom seems to be a flat rocker entry with double concave through the board but I have no idea of how deep it is… any measurements or tips on this would also be great. Thanks in advance guys!
I do and repair more and more midlenght. Standard medium tucked modern surfboard rail profil. Bottom flat to light vee back or mellow double concave (around 3mm) from entry to exit. Nothing extrem, midlenght shape need harmony, make them beautiful with nothing that hurt eyes and they’ll be good.
Thanks for the advices. I’ll defenitly make a double concave throught the board but isn’t a 3mm concave deph too mellow? The expression of the curve will be almost insignificant and flat ? Or am I wrong?
I was wondering if you have any draw/ scheme of that modern standard medium tucked rai that you can share with me? Anyway those tips were great and it allowed me to have a better vision of the board. Thanks
Run a medium V thru the fin cluster with a slight concave on either side of the center(stringer). Don’t get radical or harshly extreme. Slight to medium at best. Tuck the rail with a fairly hard edge beginning 4" in front of the forward fins. Soften the tuck moving forward toward mid point until it becomes a “soft” 60/40 that rolls upward in the last 25% or nose. I do not favor “beaked noses”. I find that they serve no true purpose in effecting the ride of the board. Purely aesthetic when you consider that the nose of a board this size doesn’t touch or pierce water. They can look nice though. Aesthetically I prefer to flatten the deck in the nose. This also eliminates a few ounces of what the great shaper Reynolds Yater called “swing weight”.
PS Andre-- You will learn a lot by just jumping in and doing it. Was reading thru this again and thought of something I was told recently. There wouldn’t have been a United States if the Pilgrims hadn’t set sail across a very big Atlantic Ocean in a really small wooden boat under sail only. No Risk-- No Gain.
I’ve managed single to double to slight V (or spiral V) on a 5’7 fish with tucked rail. I will do the same.
But whats about the entry ? I place the deepest somewhere around my front foot on shortboard but whats about a 7’2 ? Should I start a slight double 12 or 20" from nose ? or under my front foot ?
Just in front of your front foot. Basically about where your chin would be when you paddle. Taper it from shallow to deeper at about where you chest is when paddling. Then from deep to shallow extended to about four inches in font of forward fins. Not a very good oral description on my part, but I think you’ve got the idea. Pretty much the same as you have done in the past. Lowel
I’ve been stopped by strangers on a number of occasions, asking me about the board I’m carrying. I think it’s fairly common for people to take an interest on what others are surfing and equally common for people to share what they know about their own boards or to allow someone to grope a rail or get a close look at an edge. Moreso perhaps with the longboarders and alternative design guys that the high performance shortboard guys, but still common nonetheless.
But yeah and as McDing says, sooner or later you need to step past the looking and planning stage into the doing stage. One lesson that “built-not bought” teaches us is that even funky and imperfect boards can be a lot of fun and teach us new aspects of both building and surfing these boards.