I know when I come out of the shack I throw both middle fingers up!
What… what’s the big deal?
AHHH…
“When you come out”… get it?
.
What does “count” mean ?
Do you fill in a scoresheet each time you surf?
Little Drakes, circa 1972: one of those days–drop in, go out into the flats, count to two, then pull up into a guaranteed barrel. Guy doesn’t even look, drops in on me and proceeds to get shacked. Me, I’m stalling high up in the pocket trying to keep my nose from separating his head from his shoulders. My sander/polisher/friend is paddling over the shoulder peering into the tube–can’t even see me. When I glide out into the channel split-seconds after the other guy, the look on his face was enough to keep me laughing for the rest of the session. No need for any words, angry or otherwise.
“What does “count” mean ?”
No scoresheet… just looking for opinions as to whether or not a “tube” claim is legit if you don’t make the wave.
I personally don’t get tubed enough to claim or count. I suppose if I got knocked off and didn’t make it, I’d more likely claim a wipeout.
Tube - if you don’t make it, what ever, seen plenty of close out glory, felt plenty of pinched/swatted off bummers…
Unless, you’ve been riding inside a place like Ma’aleea for 50+ yards - then you may feel stoked.
Personally, I stick my face in the water and let out a little hoot if I’m that stoked about it, or as another said, start laughing… “That’s what I’m talking about…” Ha!
I’m with you on that! I’ve only popped out of a handful of decent barrels in my life, but I’ve celebrated every hollow closeout I’ve pulled into.
I reckon if it gave you a rush, it’s worth a claim.
Lets face it, surfing is basically showboating. Most moves are just overly flashy versions of something that started out as a simpler, purely functional move.
We’re flashy showy people by nature. It’s all about fun!!!
Depends,
I’ll give them “E” for effort if it was a critical barrel,and rode it w/ style for a distance.
If it was a tube and you came out and ate it down the line after …ya ,it counts.
But, if it’s a tuck and clamshell or geekout then …no! Definitely No!!!
Herb
I think in my case CaHi,
The guy in front wasn’t expecting me to make it.
Between the crowd laughing…hard…and me making my comments…
I think his third member shrunk 3 sizes.
He quickly vanished from the line-up,that day.
Herb
whats the big deal here?
if a guys havin fun and his ride exceeded his normal crappy days
let him claim it and enjoy it in his mind
it dont hurt anyone
but Herbs story was classic , definetly,LOL
that guy definetly shrunk
Back in the days,
Someone posted the event in Surfing mag or Surfer…one of the two…never did see it for myself,and I’m not sure if names were named.
Like 75ish.
Ken,
You are absolutely correct.
One day I was hanging out at Bolsa w/ the usual suspects and it was a…dismal…tiny…slow…morning sick event…and it wasn’t even breaking really ,just kinda crumbling down as it came in.
As we were being… our usual spoiled selves…a group of somewhat beginners were heading out to the water yelling ,a real STOKE !
My buddy DavO now working the Surfline reports(email him and say hi from me,also tell him to give…well you know).Commented on how kooky the group was,and I replied,“I wish I was a kook again.The problem with us is we know better.They don’t really know the difference.Must be nice to be that stoked on such a crappy day.”
That pretty much says it all.
Herb
Quote:
I like to give a good loud hoot for any good wave… A great beeg Oooowwwww! puts a smile on the face of those getting that ride, makes people paddle just a bit harder to try and catch that ride, and just sounds so cool when you’re in the barrel.
Sharing the stoke brings up the good vibes, and good vibes brings in more waves. Not sure what pumping your fist in the air does.
I’ll second that…but one claim that really gets me is the guy who’ll hoot his own ride every time…
I wouldn’t begrudge anyone an honest helping of stoke, but jocks jocking out while surfing …
Jocks who give the finger–or the double finger–to the wave, the beach, or anyone else… well, it’s just not right.
How about in Big Wednesday,
Matt’s big wave and tube…would you claim that ?
It was also his worst wipeout …in that… very same wave…was it not?..does that really change things?
And we’re not talking about riding hollow-core-door-panels at very small closed out pipe either.
Keep in mind…it’s not so much the equipment…it’s the shooter.
Herb
Claiming…
always reminds me of the end of boxing matches where both opponents
dance around the ring with their gloves in the air.
Can’t see how anyone could claim a not made tube, tumblin around in
washing machine. How would that work?
I hoot others, never hoot myself (it even sounds strange).
Got no problem with others doing it.
Stoke is a feeling, it can put a smile on your face, verbal is something else.
Then again I never understood that mosh pit thing either.
I hope she hoots me cuz it seems unanimous - you guys love dem hooters.
gives new meaning to d.o.h.
now on to claimin tubes, 
My worst wipeout was in a deep barrel.
Scored really great solid overhead waves with just a couple of guys back in late 1980s. We started taking off further and further back, coming through the barrel as it pitches out in front of you. I messed up my line on one and ended up getting pitched over in the lip onto my board. One of the fins hit my right arm so hard it severed a tricep. There was no external damage, but incredible pain. I stayed out a while more paddling with one arm till the crowd came out.
Didn’t go to the doctor for a week even though I could hardly move my arm because I thought it was a bad charley horse. I noticed a huge lump on the bottom side of my arm when I held it straight out. Found out that the lump was where the muscle was severed.
I’ve also been drilled into the reef from eating it in the barrel. When it gets big at tennis courts the inside turns into an intense barrel. At low tide it gets pretty dangerous.