My shaper has purchased a 10 1 Y blank for me: supergreen. Is the rocker pretty set or can the shaper deviate from this original rocker (nose, middle, tail)? If so, would the shaper be able to mimmick for example the rocker found in a Model T or similiar type 9’6" - 9’8" board??
Ken, Unless you order a custom rocker, what you see is what you get. That being said, there are ways to make adjustments. 1) You can thin out the nose and tail, taking foam off the bottom to create more rocker. The deck will look deceivingly flat, but the bottom can have plenty of rocker. I’ve easily gotten 4" of tail rocker with a standard 10’1"Y. 2) You can cut the stringer out and glue in your own with more bend in it. Think about it before you try it, though. Glueing in stringers is messy and nerve-racking if you haven’t done it before. And you might end up with rough glue lines unless you have a bench planer to smooth the cut on the foam. I’d stick with what you’ve got and order custom rocker on the next one.
Ken, Unless you order a custom rocker, what you see is what you get. That being said, there are ways to make adjustments. 1) You can thin out the nose and tail, taking foam off the bottom to create more rocker. The deck will look deceivingly flat, but the bottom can have plenty of rocker. I’ve easily gotten 4" of tail rocker with a standard 10’1"Y. 2) You can cut the stringer out and glue in your own with more bend in it. Think about it before you try it, though. Glueing in stringers is messy and nerve-racking if you haven’t done it before. And you might end up with rough glue lines unless you have a bench planer to smooth the cut on the foam. I’d stick with what you’ve got and order custom rocker on the next one.
Doug - do you have opinions on the 10 1 Y blank & that particular rocker? I was actually thinking of reducing the rocker rather than increasing it for a flatter surface. Also, by including a tail block and asking the shaper to scale the length down to 9’ 6 or 9’8", would most of the reduced length come from the nose? I ordered a double stringer, Bass wood 3/16 ea., SuperGreen density. Sounds like I should leave the stringer alone as you reccommended. I am also planning to ask the shaper for a nose concave, traditional rails (60/40?). Not sure if a deck patch is necc., want Volan cloth.
Doug - do you have opinions on the 10 1 Y blank & that particular rocker? I was actually thinking of reducing the rocker rather than increasing it for a flatter surface. Also, by including a tail block and asking the shaper to scale the length down to 9’ 6 or 9’8", would most of the reduced length come from the nose? I ordered a double stringer, Bass wood 3/16 ea., SuperGreen density. Sounds like I should leave the stringer alone as you reccommended. I am also planning to ask the shaper for a nose concave, traditional rails (60/40?). Not sure if a deck patch is necc., want Volan cloth.
Ken, If you’re going to cut a 10 1Y down to 9’6" or 9’8" , and you want to reduce the rocker, cut the length off of the nose. That way you’ll automatically flatten the overall rocker of the board. I make mostly longboards, and I always put in a deck patch: ( 4oz. sandwiched between two layers of 6oz.) The decks last a lot longer. Another tip for deck longevity: shape the deck removing as little foam as possible. Just enough to get the job done. The bubbles of the foam at the skin are smaller and closer together making the foam denser and stronger. The less of it you take off, the stronger the deck will be. Rails are extremely important and the discussion could be endless. Rule of thumb though, is that the more “down” the rails are, the more they capture the energy of the wave. 60/40 rails will be more catchy and responsive than 50/50 rails. You just have to decide what’s going to work for you.
Doug - thanks a bunch.