How about a few tips on laying down a good tape line for pins? I always have a few flat or squiggly bits no matter how careful I am.
Yo Slim we had a long discussion about this a few months ago and it is archived.If you can’t find it I understand and will be glad to go into a long winded thing if you guys want.Herb and Tom Sterne were in on it.Jim Phillips put up some great stuff too.Its your call. R.B.
i’d say go for it roger…maybe we can “Resource” it. that was such a good idea Swaylock. this site is going off!!..thanks to everyone for all the shared info. keepin the underground alive;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
I searched “pinlines” but found nothing about layout technique. Lots on how to do the resin pins, paint marker pins and spray pins, but couldn’t find anything on laying down the tape. I use a paint pen and I’m pretty confident I know how to use it, just can’t seem to lay out a good clean curve with the tape. Do you remember the thread title? It’s your call, I realize it takes a lot of time to think of how to put these processes in to decipherable print.
OK…first get the board up to say chest level.You have to have a guideline(either a pencil line drawn with a rail tool or template or use an existing cut lap.)Use good tape…3M 233 it bends better.I use 3/4" 1/2" and sometimes 1/4" for a tight turn.I use the wider tape for long runs because it is less prone to wobble as you say.The main thing is to try to do it in a rapid flowing motion.Keep your hands spread wide…use the line like you are driving a car.I am actually looking ahead as I lay the tape.It just takes practice go ahead and burn a roll of tape or two…its cheap.The main thing for me is the level of the board on a steady stand,good light and having a wide spread of tape…its almost a full body motion versus something with the wrist.This very hard to explain.One main thing I can say is don’t be to hard on yourself.A line on a sanded board jumps out at in the shop but little flat spots will get lost in the wash when the board is finished.Go to a surf shop and look down a pinline at eye level and you will probably see some flats and wobbles.If you have trouble with the width you can lay some 1/16 blue car tape as a guide for the other side.Lay the first side…then…lay down the “cheater or spacer” tape.Next lay down other side butting it a gainst the spacer.Pull the spacer tape and go for it.Hope this helps somewhat. R.B. One last thing,on a lonbboard I use 3/4 for the long runs and blend 1/2" in to make the bend around the nose (this is on the outboard side).Some people use 1/2 for the whole deal and it might work for you…I tend to be set in my ways.
Thanks, Cleanlines. I burned a roll with many the same result. Practice, practice, practice I guess.
One thing that Roger didn’t mention is, don’t pull the tape very tight as you are are laying it down. The reason for this is that if you tug on it with much force it will pull kinks into the tape that can’t be gotten out. I only use enough pressure to keep it from falling onto the board prematurely.
i have an idea… what if you layed down a couple strips of masking tape where the pinline would be…use a rail tool with a razor attached and just go along it then move it over an 1/8 of an inch and do it again? wouldnt that work just perfect? rail tools arent the hardest thing to make. peice of pvc pipe some tape and a razor pen. just curious. http://members.cox.net/austinsurfboards
Two potential problems with the rail tool.It may be hard to keep it from wobbling.It may also score the hoatcoat cuausing future cracking problems.I actually tried it but gave up…not to say that it can’t be done.Lemme know if you guys get it to work. R.B.
Austin: I’ve thought about the method you described but haven’t done it. I do use a rail guage with an exacto knife to lightly cut masking tape for tint laps, instead of laying down the tape to a eyeballed or scribed line. It works great and I use the tool to trim the cloth when the resin kicks. If you make the tool you describe, I would suggest fastening two blades with a 1/8" spacer between, so the gap remains constant intstead of doing two separate cuts. By the way the tool I just described would be similar to a “purfling” tool a luthier uses to cut the groove to inlay around the edges of violins. Even, consistent widths.
For what it’s worth, my experience with pinstriping has shown that dark contrasting colors are alot less forgiving than light, mildly contrasting colors regarding wobbles and bumps. I recently finished a persimmon yellow tint/clear deck longboard with an light ice blue pinstripe that I think looks killer. Thanks to Cleanlines for all of the previous help and advice and I was able to do an almost pro looking job. Like someone said, practice, practice.
“… practice, practice, practice.” Lance, having fine tools is great, they`re a pleasure to use and often essential… but investing in yourself always pays the highest dividends.