It will melt into a pile of goo. What part of silk or cotton was unclear?
Bill is correct. HOWEVER, I have heard that using polyester with Entropy SuperSap Epoxy systems will work.I would approach with caution as this is just something an old boat builder told me, not sure how true it is. Says he uses it for corner repairs and more complex layups. Not sure why.
Angus-
Here is a board I have to finish sanding. I think the fabric is rayon or nylon. Very sheer.Looks like snake skin.I have glassed many boards with fabric and always test it first if its anything other than cotton. I always put it directly on the foam then glass. This board is a little tricky because I wrapped the rails. Just a little experience so you get the pattern lined up and cutting the nose and tail on the deck.
Trippy… as is the outline!
Care to expand on the theory behind those hips?
Just an old template from a Jacobs’ (60s’) 422 model. Tyler has a similar (Riddler) template but with a square nose. they work well for what they are. Velzy came up with the original design.
I am looking for the specific name and type of fabric that can be used in a normal inkjet printer and then glassed into a board.
There are a couple of sites doing this such as surfboard graphics.com and inlayz as well as someone called Headline Graphics HG photocloth who claim to be the best.
I am based in South Africa and there are one or two people doing it here but with very heavy fabrics so I am lookng for a better one. I have tried coated (to stop the ink bleeding) polyester abut it is too waterproof. Ideally I am looking for a polyester fabric that will not react to the various resins and epoxys. It would need to be very this so it does not take up too much resin and weight and a small tight weave to get the best solids as well as crisp images, but also alow resins through it to limit the delamination risk. Ideally it should also be very white and all but dissapear under resin. Everyone is pretty tight lipped about this and not sharing the actual specs and names and details of these products.
There are also certain inks that work best in this application so as not to run and to be more UV Stable.
Any help would be greatly apreciated. or try me at giles@netactive.co.za
People are tight lipped about it because that is how they makr money to survive. If there is nothing special about the process in which their product is made, only what its made on, its not a very smart idea to give that away.
That being said, most of the full board lams ive seen were just on rice paper like a normal logo would be.
Thanks, agreed!
I have had a bit of resistance re the rice paper as the shapers say it is difficult to work with on various curves etc. and over large areas. Also difficult to print on large sheets.
Works great in small patches. Still trying to find the right spec of material.
You can use all kind of syntetic fiber with epoxy. Some don’t glue well to resin, like peel ply.
Thanks,
So far I am narrowing it down but still have not found the exact fabric that will work. I am seeing some people tomorrow.
We are a bit behind you guys when it comes to print technologies here. I have also seen a type of paper that they are using in Aus. But that is all I know. it could be rice paper it could be something else. My local shaper just said it is difficult to do large sheets of rice paper, with all the weird curves on boards nowdays, and they also do not seem to come wide enough, so fabric it is for now. just which one?
Thanks again
I’d suggest a non woven (polypropylene often, but also glass) tissue (e.g. Colan Surfacing Tissue and Veil**) **or a nylon weave (like spectramax from cerex). You’d have to check for printability and color fastness.
Awesome thanks I will follow up
Never had any delam issues but it does add a little weight, and it won’t wrap rails like fiberglass. Clear bottom and rails (or solid color) with fabric on the deck would be a much more practical scheme.
Cotton is a coarser fabric, silk is much finer and probably a little trickier to work with, search the archives (plenty of info from people more knowledgeable than me), and do a test with the fabric you choose. Make sure there are no wrinkles before you begin.
Especially with silk which is very tightly knitted, it’s not a bad idea to brush resin directly on the blank, then apply the silk cloth and add some resin on top. Then squeegee relatively hard to drive out the excess resin. This way you will be sure to get a good bond between cloth and blank. Otherwise, getting resin to go through the silk and onto the blank from the top may be tricky.
A thread from the past with Kokua in it…miss that guy.
Learning how to fold up the cloth and put resin directly onto the foam comes in handy. There are all kinds of fabrics including variations of fiberglass that do not wet out well. I often fold or roll up one side to the middle brush or pour some resin onto the foam spread it out if you pour, then lay the cloth back over the wet foam get it tacked down where it should be then do the same to the opposite side.
For fabric inlays, I have used tape to pull the fabric tight if it is wrinkled. I don’t to like to wash fabrics because I’m lazy, but I also don’t know how the washing may affect the resin adhesion. You will most likely be doing a cut lap with one side already done, so there will be a nice edge to cut against. I also think using epoxy resin with fabric inlays is easier than using poly. This is a 10’ old poly board I reshaped then glassed with poly resin. I did a full bottom fabric inlay with a cotton blend, and I thought the resin didn’t like the fabric as well as boards I did with epoxy resin. But, I am not an expert at any of this stuff, so it may have been the type of fabric I used.
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A little difficult posting to these older threads but I have a technique question that someone might be able to answer. I will wrap the tinted bottom lam to a top cut lap then aplly the cloth with a small reveal between the tinted lap and cloth edge. The question I have is, I’m using a rather dark fabic and even though taping off the frabic design should be no problem I don’t see how I will be able to cut the fabric to that tape line as it seems it will be difficult to impossible to see the tape through the dark cloth.
Is there another method? Should I experiment and see if the tape is somehow more visible than I am imagining?
Thank you very much
Larry
Seems like you’d be able to see it in the right light, even feel it. I’ve done a few fabric inlays, usually on the foam with glass over. I would do like you say, glass the bottom and the rail wrap, then place the fabric on the top as the next step. Mine were done with epoxy resin, someone else will know about suncure. I always needed a pinline at the edge.
Yes you will most likely need a pinline. But as far as the cut lap goes, just put two or three layers of tape at the cut lap. You should be able to feel where your tape line is. Cut it as soon as possible, press the cloth down using a seam roller or a thimble. Cut at the lap, press down, pull your tape and top off with a free lap of 4 or 6 oz. You may want to baste with lam resin at the seam before your final top layer of cloth. No matter how good of a job you do, you will still most likely need a pinline to cover up the seam. Obviously your pinline will be on the hotcoat.