So it’s been a few years since I’ve been heavy into glassing. I have a place to do my own boards now. I did a few the last couple of years and managed to not smell my upstairs tenant out. So I started the first one in the new shop. An old dingy Clark that I’ve had around quite a few years. Decided to do a semi opaque tint over Vector Net. I remembered that Opaque requires more MEK, so I loaded it up. It did not go off like it should have. My fear is that I might over compensate on the next one. I know there has been much discussion in the past about using Cobalt for dark resin Pinlines. What I want to know is whether or not a small amount of Cobalt would help a pigment rich opaque lamination go off in a timely manner. I can force the lamination to set by using a hot cheater coat squeegied over the lam. But am wondering if Cobalt would help? Lowel
How fast are you wanting it to kick???
What temp is your glassing room?
Ive never had a need to add cobalt.
Usualy end up with a 15-20 min work time and can trim laps in an hour.
The real ‘‘kicker’’ for pinlines, is DMA. One drop of that s**t, and boom! Pinlines in 10 minutes.
This is nothing new per se as a problem. I have had trouble in the past years with heavily pigmented Opaques being slow to kick. Room temp etc is all good. I’m talking Poly Resin. I also did a White Semi Opaque in Epoxy —. No problem. I am just saying; I have had this problem with Opaques past and present. Just wondering if Cobalt will help. Bill—. i’ll See if I can locate some DMA and give it a try.
DMA, aka, Dimethylaniline.
Be very careful with both cobalt and DMA.
You really gotta know what your doing with the stuff.
If you somehow mix cobalt and mekp directly together — BOOM!!!
No bueno!
It needs to be mixed in proper ratios, no fudging it like catalyst
I think your just askin for trouble.
NOT AN UNDERSTATEMENT. IT IS DANGEROUS STUFF. EASY WAY TO START A FIRE.
I won’t pour anything down a toilet like they did in O’side. I understand; a little dab will do me.
try crystaliner boating supplies in costa mesa…or LBC dry dock…there’s been alot of lock downs on chems used in boating and board building eg. Styrene(but you can by all the surfacing agent you want ?) can no longer be purchaced by the non-pro + you have to have a cert to buy it…grab what you can…while you can.
i know of three shops burnt to the ground …from dma or colbalt.
Thank God I am North of the Calif State line. Ie Anderson Grade and Siskiyou Summit. The State of Jefferson. Was in a Rev-Chem awhile back and they had Cobalt by the gallon. Can’t buy Styrene and Pot is down to $40 an ounce?? What’s the world coming to? Lowel
Simple solution; More MEK. I checked with a few people and found that I need three to four times the MEK I would normally use for a clear or light tint. Normally I would use 10 or 15cc in a clear or lite tint per quart or quart and half of Poly. I did this one with 20cc which I thought would be plenty. But I was told 30 or 40cc is more like it. It’s always scary dumping more MEK into resin than you think is minimal for the work you are doing, but this info comes from a solid source.
I learned something new today. Thanks!!! Question: Do you add this in addition to your normal amount of mekP?