Collaboration 'Huie-Yorky'

Wood glue is kinda yellow in color isn’t it?

White Elmer’s glue dries more clear.

Board is looking great by the way.

Been painting a bunch of Tomo’s lately.

Similar tails.

Lots of concaves going on there.


I’m interested in your thinking about the parallel rails and deep channels. In my mind the parallel rails and wide tail will aid speed and the channels will tighten up the tail because they’ll slow down rail to rail response. Do you have extra rocker or is this a small wave speedster for above the lip surfing? Or have I got it all wrong?



I want this board to be an allround shortboard.

There is quite a bit of rail line rocker between the feet.

Cause It’s got a deep single concave plus the double down the middle and parallel rails,  the extra rail rocker is an important thing i’m thinking.

This board has no tail flip, it’s a constant ark (rail line) rocker running off the tail.

I used the ‘Golden ratio’ formula  for the rail line rocker increasing toward the nose (the nose flip rocker was taken from a rocker that I got cut out of a sector of an oval)

I’m really relying on the wing, tail shape and the foam taken out from the channels to compensate for the consistant rail rocker out the tail.

The bottom shape is a combination of arks flowing through the channels and out of the tail.

I didn’t expect the middle concave out the back to be so deep, but the radius ark (I chose) dictated the depth.

Red your statement ‘the channels will tighten up the tail because they’ll slow down rail to rail response.’ It feels correct but can you elaborate on this more pls (mainly slow down the rail to rail response)

You got it all right Red, as far a I know. 






Interesting bottom!  It looks like the center channel is deeper than the side ones?  What is the rocker doing?  Where did you put the curves?

By memory the last one I did with the glue seamed clear… I’ll roll the dice and we’ll find out.

Yeah lots of concaves, there everywhere.

might throw a couple of deck channels in too haha.


…some PVA’s (most of them) are not waterproof…I use DorisExpress (German), and they make an additive that waterproofs the glue …maybe the Qcell/cabosil will waterproof the PVA ?..although , Ive never used PVA to seal the actual shaped blank…ask Huie , he got more moves than a chessboard.

I think we posted about the same time, Did My reply to Red answer your question?

Yep the center channel turned out deeper then expected.

We’re going to 2 back fins on the apex of the 3" wide center concave. Like a split back ‘thruster fin’ or like a ‘quad’ with the back fins rediculously close together. Using the leading edge of where the 4 1/2" (base) thruster back fin would be as the leading edge for the 2 smaller back fins.

These 2 smaller back fins will be using fcs1 dual plugs along side the standard thruster setup using Futures plugs.


laminating in epoxy… I always used epoxy and qcell to seal in the past, might go back to doing that.

…Idea was, well I got all this glue haha, and It’s cheaper.

what would you do? ditch the glue in pictured??

Huie will be back in a few days going to seal it soon

According to the pictured container and one retailer, regarding Parfix wood glue:

Parfix PVA is a PVA based adhesive suitable for general interior woodworking joinery and other craft uses. It is non-toxic, will not stain timber and dries clear.

  • High strength
  • **Clear drying**
  • Water clean up

If it is like Titebond III, it could be water resistant after curing.  I could not find any information about water resistance for Parfix.  Could be an interesting EPS sealing method.  I wonder if you could mix it with gypsum (calcium sulfate) to thicken it?  Gypsum is white but, is it white enough?  

(EDIT:  Maybe you could cut the gypsum with titanium dioxide powder to make it whiter.  Maybe just use titanium dioxide powder only.)

I like playing with the Golden Ratio in design methods.  Golden Ratio to increase forward rail line?  How are you applying the GR (that is, if it is not your secret sauce)?


for sure Yorky…epoxy/Qcell primer and epoxy lamination is a combination that’s hard to beat…and the Qcell/epoxy prime coat sands nice with a 320 grit before the lam , and still keys in solid as…I wipe the prime coat over with a fine sponge , after squeeging it in , especially around the rails , to keep it nice and uniform all over…what density is the EPS ?

vh grade foam.

the sponge after squeeging is a good one.

already jumped in and used the pva glue i have. 

hold the phone’’

seems like i let you go you get out of hand   (-:

sorry for being late to the party         damned radiation  kick my backside the hot days.


   F ins we need to do a bit more talk about the placement  no toe inn  2 deg cant no more

we can offset the tabs  to make it easier for fin face to line up  more talk .

   NO do not use that sh##t   kayu has given you the only way

e p s uses less than most urethane

 put some white pigment in the slurry when you glass with the bright resin it will come out snow white and last pretty well

see ya in a cple of days


Start again

It’s shaped, I have never been to fusy when it comes to a ultra smooth finish.

I left a lot more volume then i would of in the past for my own boards.


yes that is more volume than you usually do   i like it  now all i gota do is get ya to  increase the nose  

   love it

I sealed it, mixed the pictured glue with just cabocil, it went on good, not as easy to work in as epoxy and qcell but a hell of a lot easier to clean up and no mask, which is always pleasing. some would call this a lame effort in sealing a blank as the pits are very visable, oh well.

The main reason for sealing this board is so when i tape up the carbon lines, the tape wont rip off little beads (that really pisses me off)… come to think of it, i’ll go get some painters light stick tape tomorrow, as I plan to put some water color on the board (something really basic ha)


jumped the gun i did :), sealed (sort of) lol, (only sealed because the tape I lay down when puttin on the carbon strips, well the tape pull the beads out-hate that shit ha)

I’ll wait for your email before I do any work with the fin placement.

talk in a few.


It is possible to exist in the two worlds.

Or a tread can exist in two discussions.

i would like to talk to people who care about pushing performance surfboards forward. 

maybe there in here?

Afraid so…

A lurker of the depths.

Love the work Y.

Watching and learning EPS and epoxy right now.

Big Mahalo…

So good it’s worth repeating.

Damn that “Future of Sways” thread. This post is what it’s all about. Brain fodder for sure. Thanks for your detailed response. Made me think about a new board in the quiver for Sri Lanka in June.

In my experience, heavy channels in the tail tend to hold the tail flat in steep waves. The result for me has been the tail getting sucked up the face in the tube because I can’t seem to get that rear edge in. So I extrapolated from that. But a surfer of your talent should be able to stomp on that tail and make it obey!


Bit of red water paint put on with a roller.

Next, add some carbon.