I have some questions about the process of laminating a board, using pigments, I wanted to know if you can help me. I would like to make a surboard whit bottom Navy Blue and the Deck light blue, also have a Pin line.
In short, the process I’m thinking of doing is:
Laminate the bottom with navy resin tint (6oz);
Cut-lap;
Deck inlay with a light blue (6oz);
trim the deck inlay;
After trimming the deck inlay, I’m in doubt about the next steps, about the second layer of fiber (6oz) on the deck, this is because, I would like it to be just light blue in the middle. I wanted to know if it’s possible and if so how can I do this?
I’ve been seeing some options in Swailock’s and some videos, but I could not figure out the best option.
I attach an image of an example of the kind of painting I want, if anyone can help, I am very grateful.
What you want to do isn’t that difficult, I do it all the time. Only difference with you is maybe i would do the deck inlay first as it is the lighter color, then have the dark color of the bottom cutlapped just over the deck inlay, say 1/8" overlap. Then, your second deck layer is glassed with clear resin. I use to cutlap this layer, too, but you might as well freelap it.
Thanks for your help. I understood what you said, and will try to follow your tips Yes, maybe the deck inlay fist should be better in this case. I was thinking I had to give the second deck layer of resin clean, but I was not sure, as this is going to be the first board with pigments.
…hello, if you do an inlay you will finish with less fiberglass in the rails in a long board, so the board will damage sooner. The rails should have more fiberglass (or other fibers) than any other part of the board. The rails need to be rigid (design wise). Also PU is softer to the center, so the rails are the parts where more foam is mowed, you need protection there (technical building wise). Due to these two basic points is what the rails in all the cases need more guts.
Inlays only compromise the fatigue of the boards. Normally in good shops (only there s a few good glass shops in the world) they put another layer, yes, finish heavier; but that s not matter in these types of works.
Yeah, like Reverb says. I like more glass on the rails. I do 2 layers of clear over an inlay. If you just want 2 layers on the deck you could try doing the light blue on the deck with a wrap to the rail edge on the bottom, cut lap. Then the dark blue over that onto the deck, cut lap. Then clear on the deck lapped all the way around the rail.
A lot of people are doing the color directly on to the foam (air brush or resin stain). Then they glass with clear resin and say it makes the resin and board stronger. I haven’t done this style of color work myself. Most pro shops will do it with airbrush.
With using TINTS , I would lam the dark blue bottom first, cut lap on the deck rail. Make sure you mask off the deck real good and cover the whole deck to protect it.
when you cut the lap put a bend in the razor blade as to keep the cutting edge parallel to the foam, DO NOT cut into the foam to cut the lap.
there is a special time when to cut the lap, about 3/4 cured, so you can bend the lap up at the tape line and cut with bent blade, let it finnish curing.
sand down any overlaping tinted cloth so not to have dark spots and keeps the tint even, blow off any dust
Mask off for the deck patch , make sure the tape is pressed in to prevent bleed through… cut the same as before.
Apply a second deck lam with clear and cut it at the apex of the rail, Just let it drape then trim at the right time, and let cure, lightly sand
then apply another clear lam on the deck wraping aroud to the bottom of rail. free lap or do a cutlap , your choice
continue with hot coats, sand , pin line and gloss
Like Ken says; follow those directions and you will be fine. Bending the blade is fine. I just don’t do it , because I never needed to. Got to watch Roger Hinds cut a lap this past year. Saw him do a couple of things.
I agree with what you said about the rails should be stronger, I’ll keep that in mind when doing the next lonboards. Its really important, because it is one of the parts of the board that suffers more from the use. Thanks for the explanation!
Thanks for the explanation, I was able to understand the process of putting two layers on the deck.
In case I want 2 layers of clear resin on the deck, after the inlay, can you help me with the steps I should do? I’ll put here what I think is the process:
Deck inlay first, whit light blue;
Cutlap deck inlay:
Laminate bottom, whit dark blue;
Cutlap;
One layer of clear resin in deck, cut it at the apex of the rail (I discovered this method by the response of @Kensurf, later in the post);
if its Opaque or solid color on the bottom, you may want to consider laming the deck tint color first and wrap the rails with a cutlap on the bottom then lam the bottom with the solid color wraped to the deck and cutlaped , then a final lam of clear on top wraping to the bottom
When you say 2 layers of clear resin, do you mean with glass cloth?
If you do, then yes, do the light blue color inlay, cut it, clean the cut line, then add 2 layers of cloth over the inlay. First layer to the rail edge, second layer wraps around the rail edge.
This video is of one of the master glassers here in Hawaii doing a color inlay.
Yes, maybe the deck inlay fist should be better in this case. I was thinking I had to give the second deck layer of resin clean, but I was not sure, as this is going to be the first board with pigments.