Is it possible to do a color resin job in the hot coat stage. I just laminated the bottom of my board but the color came out way off, too thin, it looked good in the bucket. I want to make it darker. Should I put color in the hot coat stage or add another layer of glass on the bottom now and darken it that way. Thanks for the help.
Is it possible to do a color resin job in the hot coat stage. I just > laminated the bottom of my board but the color came out way off, too thin, > it looked good in the bucket. I want to make it darker. Should I put color > in the hot coat stage or add another layer of glass on the bottom now and > darken it that way. Thanks for the help. First finish your lamination on the top. If you add more glass to the bottom all you do is add more weight and strengthen the board to a point where it probably doesn’t need to be. You can add pigment to the hot-coat. If it’s opaque or tint ,the mixed resin w/ piment needs to be strained befor catylized thru a paint strainer, nylon stocking or even a strainer you can buy at the grocery store. Get the finest mesh you can. ( MAKE SURE YOU MIX MORE THAN YOU NEED AND SAVE SOME IN ANOTHER JAR TO FIX ERRORS.) This filters out impurities that are in the resin and pigment. tape the rail line over the lamination just like you’d do a regular hot coat. Apply color and let kick. After t hat hot coat do the same to deck. What you didn’t say is if you were pigmenting on the top like a one or two inch color band on the rail or if the deck was going to be the same color as the bottom. anyway…you can ad pigment to the hot coat. JC
worked for me but took a little longer to kick.
when i hot coat the deck i don;t tape off. only when i coat the bottom. if the resin is pigmented…must i tape the deck? will the tape line sand out smoothly or will it show? can you treat a pigmented hot coat the same as you would a clear?
Be careful sanding a colored hot coat. Sand throughs become bare spots in the color.
Thanks for the reply this info is very helpful. You mentioned if I was pigmenting on the top like a one or two inch color band on the rail or if the deck was going to be the same color as the bottom. Well I originally planned on having the deck and bottom the same color and the rails darker. Is it still possible to salvage that plan or will the board turn out all the same color. Thanks for the help sean>>> First finish your lamination on the top. If you add more glass to the > bottom all you do is add more weight and strengthen the board to a point > where it probably doesn’t need to be. You can add pigment to the hot-coat. > If it’s opaque or tint ,the mixed resin w/ piment needs to be strained > befor catylized thru a paint strainer, nylon stocking or even a strainer > you can buy at the grocery store. Get the finest mesh you can. ( MAKE SURE > YOU MIX MORE THAN YOU NEED AND SAVE SOME IN ANOTHER JAR TO FIX ERRORS.) > This filters out impurities that are in the resin and pigment. tape the > rail line over the lamination just like you’d do a regular hot coat. Apply > color and let kick. After t hat hot coat do the same to deck. What you > didn’t say is if you were pigmenting on the top like a one or two inch > color band on the rail or if the deck was going to be the same color as > the bottom. anyway…you can ad pigment to the hot coat. JC
when i hot coat the deck i don;t tape off. only when i coat the bottom. if > the resin is pigmented…must i tape the deck? will the tape line sand out > smoothly or will it show? can you treat a pigmented hot coat the same as > you would a clear? I wouldn’t say you must tape the rail when using color. I still struggle with catching all the drips and end up with more sanding than I care to but I’ve watched guys hot coat w/o taping when doing the top and they have no problem. The tape line will sand and blend till its invisible. Be very careful while sanding though cause its easy to sand thru the color in your case to the other color and then you have an uneven color. Two ways to deal with the rsin build up at the seam. A razor blade at an accute angle will shave down the seam. I have best success draging the blade towards you with the sharp edge facing away from you. The other way causes the blade to chatter and leave chatter marks on your rail. It will appear that you are scaring the hell out of the resin but after you’ve shaved the seam you hit it w/ 220 and then with 320 (wet/dry) using the sand paper dry and the seam will disappear and you’l have a beatiful seamless rail. As for treating the clear hot coat the same as a color hot coat…what do you mean? JC
Thanks for the reply this info is very helpful. You mentioned if I was > pigmenting on the top like a one or two inch color band on the rail or if > the deck was going to be the same color as the bottom. Well I originally > planned on having the deck and bottom the same color and the rails darker. > Is it still possible to salvage that plan or will the board turn out all > the same color. Thanks for the help>>> sean Sean, If you are using tinted resin that is translucent, your rail will be darker than the deck and the bottom as there will be two coats of color on the rails as opposed to one coat on the deck and bottom. If the color is opaque then it will be solid all the way around. In the 60’s when weight wasn’t of as extream concern as it is today (although the weight issue always comes up now or then) opaque designs were applied both for asthetic reasons and to cover up imperfections in the blanks or (and this goes on today) mistakes during production. Hope this make sense. JC