I’ve recently attempted to color match repair my own board following the instructions laid out in these two youtube clips by Mauricio Desouza and Andy Miller.
Frustratingly, the color always sets darker than when I pour it. I’ve tried a handful of times.
I carefully add a small bb of color at a time, and gradually get to the shade that looks perfect. I’ve tried to match the color both by adding the color to the fill coat as Mauricio instructs, as well as the hot coat (after the fill coat attempt came out dark). No joy either way.
My local supply shop said to not use the gloss resin, but the green from my suncure resin made it impossible to color match.I’ve just been using the gloss resin because: (1) the amber color of the gloss mixed with the yellow makes the color seem perfect (2) I already have it and don’t want to buy more if I don’t have to.
Do I need to use regular (not sun cure) resin? If so, how do I neutralize the green hue of the resin itself? Add white pigment first, then bring up the color?
Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I’m hoping another swaylockian has triumphed over this exact problem before and I would love to hear your solution(s).
Please find attached a picture of me slowly matching the color, the color looking right when I pour it, then the final darker color after it sets. Also, the materials I’m working with.
The resin you are using will dry close to clear. This means the amber tint that is helping you get the color is false because it’s not going to stay.
Also, the depth of fill of the resin is different then that the sits on the foam. It’s going to reflect light different and look darker because it’s solid
You are doing it wrong. I drop of colored resin sitting on the top of a surfboard is a lot different that a 1/2 in deep pool of resin…It will always be darker, the deeper the pool the darker the resin. The reverse happens when guys want a red board…they mix up a batch of what they think is deep blood red resin…then they pour it thin on the board to laminate…and poof, they have a light pink resin color job. hey why is my board light pink…dude not enough colorant…you need to do the opposite, use just a tad of colorant.
The better way on that fix job is to fill the hole with something light weight, resin and cabosil, or baby diaper filler or whatever. make sure it is white, either paint it white or use white filler…whatever. then glass over it with the yellow tint…or even better, glass it clear, and do match paint job over the hot coat with acrylic paint…use a sprayer…Then do the gloss or 2 pack auto coat to protect and make shiney. That will be a perfect match, and a pro quality job…not that booger blob you got going on.
Just saw the video…Did you notice at the end of Mauro vid he use an air brush to match the ding. So quit whining about the color match, you are only 1/2 way done with your repair…So far you only have the hole filled with resin. Get to work
…tinted glass work is the most useless lamination…most expensive, most difficult to achieve in most colors (check the laps in nose and tail on most works), impossible to obtain an smooth color with channels, etc and a pain in the arse to repair!
Is NOT possible to match exactly the depth of a tinted lamination.
Is possible to match a pigmented lamination in great % of colors.
Is NOT possible to match a clear board.
Is possible to match few colors in airbrushed boards.
Is possible to match an acid splash, resin swirl with an airbrush.
Always whatever color ON top of the resin will be darker, if you used a color to paint the foam, then use the SAME to try to match; well, always be darker.
If you put white, the results will be worst; if you apply only couple of coats (to prevent darker area), the repair will be visible under…
Moura is great, but there s no invisble repair in PU/polyester boards; invisible depending on the ANGLE or the perspective from your point of view and normally not in closer inspection.
I wanted to keep my original post concise, but now realize I skipped over a few attempts that were important.
(1) I did try filling with q-cell white, and then coloring the resin over it, but as ‘reverb’ says, i could see the q-cell layer underneath. I was hoping a thin colored resin layer would solve the darkness problem, but it seems like a tricky balance between darkness and thickness to cover the damage beneath.
(2) I painted with acrylic, and then hotcoated over. It didn’t sand well, the acrylic paint layer ended up peeling away (perhaps this is the orange peel effect I’ve read about? I don’t know). It also came out dark after hotcoating.
Any tips for hotcoating over acrylic paint?
What do you guys think about color matching with crystal clear resin from the artstore?
I looked at airbrushes at the art store, and can’t justify spending the money on one just yet, but totally recognize airbrushing is the right way to color match.
Patch it. Then spray it with resin out of an air brush. Buy a cheap 6 dollar air brush from harbor freight, some styrene and your good to go.
Thin your resin with a bit of styrene and open the air brush all the way.
If you patch it good, your color is only visul and not structural.
Light coats of yellow resin till the color is good.
Use uv cure resin and the process is pretty quick.
