colour question

Howdy, I’ve got a simple question.

Is the tissue paper and stringer still visible when u use pigment in your lam coat? Or does it get a tuflite look?


G’day Mook !

The board I helped pigment [lam coat] was opaque. The stringer didn’t show. No ricie / tissue used.

IF you wanted the stringer to show, you could pigment the FOAM [masking tape the stringer], pull off when done, then clear lam. Or, you could use a tint when laminating…

… I hope this helps !


The opacity of a tinted resin layup depends on the amount of pigment/resin ratio as well as how much white o black pigment you add. Adding white, or adding black increases the opacity of the tint.

The more pigment you add the more opaque the tint becomes. An opaque tint will somewhat resemble a surftech from a few meters and out, but once you get coser you can still see the weave of the cloth. the stringer will most likely not be visible if it is fully opaque.

What you should do is get a chunk of foam and cut several 2" square pieces of fiberglass cloth. If you have a new blank, then you could, prior to shaping, simply skin the bottom so you have a nice test area to work on. Then take your resin and slowly begin to add your pigment to it. Start with only a very small amount, like a few milileters and glass a scrap of cloth over the stringer. Keep going until you have the opacity that you are looking for. Experiment with several different colored pigments. Doing this will take most of the guesswork out of doing tinted layups.

One word of caution, do not use UV resin for an opaque or very dark tinted layup because the opaquness will prevent the UV light from fully penetrating the resin all the way through to the foam.

Also Volan Cloth will be slightly darker overall than regularr cloth.


…do your tint lam, then put the logos and a 4 0z on top and lam…thats all

people! thanks for the replies.


Does the first lam layer need to be hard to prevent it from staining and bleeding into the second layer? (i’d like to start with a light colour) cheers


not really sure what you are asking in your question. i can only answer this. Once the resin begins to cure the color of the first tinted layer will not bleed when lammed over with another tinted layer of glass.

An exception to this is if you cleaned up any dirt or wahtever on your first layer with acetone,the acetone will most likely pull a little color out of the lam…so don’t do that.


he drew,

sorry about the vage question. (I’m from holland - my english ain’t that good)

I’m still a bit in the dark about the whole thing.

Is this what u mean:

  1. first of all I mix resin
  2. then put the pigment in
  3. put the cloth on the blank and lamanate
  4. wait for it to gel
  5. meanwile i mix some more resin for the second layer
  6. put on the ricies then the cloth and lam with clear resin
OK thanks heaps!

PS: If this is a correct technique, what to do with the bottom???



uhh sorta.

A few more questions…Are the top and bottom the same colors? If I know this I can give you very specific dorection.

Also a few things…ALWAYS glass the bottom first. I mix the pigment in prior to catalyzing…however I only laminate with UV resin so that is not an issue for me.

If both top and bottom are the same color then you should mix enough resin for both top and bottom laminations

When using tinted resin you should be doing cutlaps to get a crisp clear edge where the glass overlaps around the rail onto the opposite side of the board that you a re laminating. If you ahve not heard of cutlaps then there is a ton a stuff on this technique in the archives.

Shoot me some more info and I’ll answer!!!


PS, my wife’s family lived in the Emneserveg region of the Nethelands for a number of years. They loved it.

drew, good to here that your family digs the dutch… never heard of the place though.

The blank is just bare white, freshly shaped. I’ve already paintbrushed a couple of boards but there’s always the bleeds and runs. And the colour always fades. Wich can be cool but I just want the colour to be uni…

I’m familiar with the cutlaps but im not using UV resin!

Ok hope it’s enough info. Thanks Drew!


Here’s where they lived:

Baarn - near Hilversum…about 20K south of Amsterdam…

Anyway, so where was I with the tinted lam.

I think that you have it pretty solid.

-Always glass the bottom first.

-If both top and bottom are the same colors then mix enough resin for both lams and set aside the top lam resin for later.

-Mix pigment in prior to catalysing. Go slowly while mixing the pigment.

-The tricky thing about using tinted resin is that it can be tricky to get a smooth consistent color. But don’t worry, just keep steady pressure with the squeegee and you should be OK

-Lighter tints are easier to get uniform color than darker tints. For instance light blue is easier to get uniformity of color than a dark blue.

-certain colors are easier to get uniformity of color than others. Yellow, orange are eaier than greens and darker blues.

-do not mix different manufatueres pigments in the same batch of resin. Bad things could happen, like the pigments not mixing well with one another.

-be sure to mix thouroughly and then continue to mix slowly whilst lamnating to keep the color in the resin consistent

-usually the beginner will have a harder time keeping the color consistent on the rails. This is just a factor of squuegee technique. Remenber to go a consistent smooth pace

-Don’t worry about bleeding. Once curd the tinted lam will not bleed when glassed over.

Hope it turns out great!


Well Drew, it is the particular pigment, some CANNOT be opaqued, no matter how much you add, using white or black to increase the value of the color will only change it’s appearance color wise. The mfgs. usually list on the can if it is an opaque or tint.