I’ve used em for fins, tail, and nose blocks but still end up with a pile like this.
After all the resawing, thicknesing, sanding ect. it kills me to use em for starting fires. Why not just piece em together? For every couple of boards I make for friends I probably end up with enough scraps to make one for myself. Here’s my first scrap board ( with surf trux which I dig - haven’t seen much feedback on these. )
I was going to use scrap foam as well but scored a big block of EPS cheap a while back and my local dump started recycling scraps of foam so that got pushed back a bit.
I’m just finishing my second scrap board but no pics yet. Anyone else tried this?
Yeah, I’m using scrap glass layed in strips under the wood as well. With meter wide rolls I probably use half as much glass this way. These boards don’t cost me any more than a regular glass over foam board to make. It does take more time to lay up the deck and bottom panels though.
I’ve done the herring bone thing a couple of times as well. What about just laying pieces width wise. I’ve got some paulownia logs a bit over a meter long I’m going to be cutting up soon. I was thinking of using them cross ways on a board instead of length wise. Probably make the board a bit more flexy. It is harder to bend the pieces over the rail when they’re oriented that way. That was the down side to the herring bone pattern I found - I ended up having to put more wood on the rails.
Great! Looks like you pieced them together to minimize waste. Please post a more detailed close-up picture, so we could see better how you put the pieces together.
You could use the techniques used in Marquetry and Parquetry to put the pieces together. I like yours because it looks like your intention was to minimize waste.
The first one I did I just chose any piece that seemed to fit. Some of the thicknesses and wood densities were slightly different and that made it a pain to sand. On the one I’m doing now I tried to match the densities and ran all the pieces through a speed sander to get exactly the same thickness. I still put them together pretty randomly but it’s been much easier. I’m using paulownia a bit over 2mm thick. I overlap the edges of the pieces I want to join and cut through both with a knife. I’m using a #11 scalpel blade but a regular razor knife works just about as well.
Heres a couple pictures of the one in the works. It’s 6’2" and wide- hopefully a fun small wave board. The blunt nose is at the encouragement of my neighbor who lost an eye from an encounter with a pointy nosed board with a rubber nose guard on it no less.
I got the sander from toolshed. It took a bit of fiddling to get it running true but it works great for the light woods you’d use for compsands. Carba Tec also has this one and a couple more beefier ones but they don’t go as thin - I think 6mm is the thinnest.
I overlap the edges of the pieces I want to join and cut through both with a knife. I'm using a #11 scalpel blade but a regular razor knife works just about as well.
Brilliant work! Excellent use of the scraps. I did some research into Marquetry and other offshoots of that art-form a while back. Much of it is done as you did with overlapping and then also cut on a scroll saw too. For the geometric stuff of Parquetry they make special jigs similar to basic cross-cut sleds to cut the pieces on the table saw.
