That’s funny… I didn’t write the dimensions on the last several boards I made. I don’t care what they are. I start out with a length, width and thickness, but by the time I’m done, it may be 1/4" to a 1/2" off. I just try make it look and feel right. When people ask me the dims, I have to tell them I don’t know for sure.
I have a couple of shop made boards that don’t have dimensions written on them. They were written on the sales tag.
With the concave deck boards, you’ll want to stay thinner than other boards because the volume is greater. I like the flat or slightly concave deck, but the rails get pretty chunky. Sometimes those new step rail designs are better to get thinner rails. With and APS machine, you’d be able to make really wild rail designs.
Go with the thickest point at the rails. It is really the telling factor in how they will float you. You can take quite a bit of foam out of the middle without seeing an equal amount of lack of flotation. The thickness at the rails on the other hand will be noticeable.
It is Alive Dan. It is all there now. The spring the responsiveness. I just need a few more days on it to get it dialed. It is now 1 3/4 in middle, but there is no noticeable diff in its ability to catch waves. We will make a 9lb this summer that will fly and stand up to some abuse.
I dunno about all this morph bottom stuff to do with concave decks, but they just seem logical, and I picture them in my head as being what would feel good to ride.
Ya know, I might just go inbetween, and just write the length and width, no thickness.
Leave out the bit that’ll confuse/scare people, and it’s not uncommon to do so.