Just been playing on APS3000, toying with concave deck ideas.
But what thickness dimension do you write on the board?
The thickessed point along the the centre of the board?
It’ll be compsand, so no centre stringer…
Or the thickessed point overall?
That’ll be somewhere a few inches off the rail!
Whats the convention for this, is there any accepted way?
Can anyone clear this up for me?
Cheers!
Kit
Why write any dimensions on the board? If someone is interested, they can put a tape on it.
That’s funny… I didn’t write the dimensions on the last several boards I made. I don’t care what they are. I start out with a length, width and thickness, but by the time I’m done, it may be 1/4" to a 1/2" off. I just try make it look and feel right. When people ask me the dims, I have to tell them I don’t know for sure.
I have a couple of shop made boards that don’t have dimensions written on them. They were written on the sales tag.
With the concave deck boards, you’ll want to stay thinner than other boards because the volume is greater. I like the flat or slightly concave deck, but the rails get pretty chunky. Sometimes those new step rail designs are better to get thinner rails. With and APS machine, you’d be able to make really wild rail designs.
Mainly convention…
I’ve never seen a board without dims, once or twice without a thickness written on it.
I’d hate to contribute to the “dumbing down” of the average surfer, by keeping them in the dark as to what their riding.
I’d never buy a car without knowing it’s engine size.
I once called a guy about a Mazda 323 - “is that the 1600cc or the 1800 version, buddy?”
“er, dunno come and have a look”
It was enough hassle to pop the bonnet, wipe off the chassis plate, try and decipher the engine code.
I’d hate to have to get out the tools and have at the cylinder block with the verniers… 
It’s a simple thing to have on there, I can’t remember the exact dimensions of a board I made a year ago!
Why be so mystical?
Anybody got an answer to the original question?
I’m leaning towards ‘thickessed point overall’
Cheers!
Kit
Hey Kit, I’d go with the wide/thick point on the board. People would freak it they knew how thin it was in the middle.
TAPE MEASURE
I NEVER EVER
WRITE A DIMENSION ON A BOARD.
stick a board under your arm
feel it with your hand
does it fit?
all the measured boards dont make em better.
science?
intution.
comparative analasis
5 measurements?
nose tail mid point thickness
and length.
throw a bone to the peanut gallery to talk about
over hot dogs and pancakes.
same 5 measurements
on a hundred diffrent boards
they are all still diffrent.
I am gonna go shape a board
its all ready roughed
I aint gonna measure it
I;m gonna make it even.
it will work well or maybe it wont
a tape measure read wrong wont change that.
…ambrose…
two inches and three lines
the big lines.
what is a cubit?
Kit
Go with the thickest point at the rails. It is really the telling factor in how they will float you. You can take quite a bit of foam out of the middle without seeing an equal amount of lack of flotation. The thickness at the rails on the other hand will be noticeable.
Christian
Speaking of removing foam, hows the newly reborn twin riding. Got any new incite?
It is Alive Dan. It is all there now. The spring the responsiveness. I just need a few more days on it to get it dialed. It is now 1 3/4 in middle, but there is no noticeable diff in its ability to catch waves. We will make a 9lb this summer that will fly and stand up to some abuse.
Christian
I’ve got a couple mods planned for the board we built last summer that out to test a couple theories.
Cheers Christian and Dan!
I dunno about all this morph bottom stuff to do with concave decks, but they just seem logical, and I picture them in my head as being what would feel good to ride.
Ya know, I might just go inbetween, and just write the length and width, no thickness.
Leave out the bit that’ll confuse/scare people, and it’s not uncommon to do so.
Kit