I was dicking around in the archieves, and i saw Ryan Getards Hull spoon thing. So my question is this to the historians and craftsman.I want to make one, however the picture doesent tell me that much. What are the dimesions, nose, tail, waiste? What about the bottom is it a big convex belly leading to a flat tail, or convex all the way through perhpas mellowing towards the tail? MOST IMPORTANT. How does someone glass a concave that agressive and not have all the resin make a pond of frustation to be sanded out later? If anything please help me with the concave glassing.
Howzit Mpaulson , A real flexable squeegee does the trick for me. Aloha, Kokua
yeah, use one of the smaller sized rubber squeegees. Or better yet get a big 24" er and cut out a 5inch piece that has a sligh radius to the laminating edge. ie. match the squeegee to the concave
Cool thanks for the response, thats for the lam. but… What about the sanding resin?
Here’s a thought that’s just been spinning through my mind and I haven’t tried it out yet. Would it work to glass the board on a slant, ie. the nose on a stand 2 feet higher than the stand the tail is on. That way the resin won’t just seep down the bowled edges of the concave and puddle in the bottom. Hopefully it will just creep down through the weave towards the tail where it can drip off. I don’t know, it is just a thought, but I will try it next time I do a concave. I’ve had puddling before and it sucks. Regards, Red
The slant might thin it out, of course you can always paint another one on. Hell i bet that would work, does anyone else disagree, or have a horrible personal experience?
(this was years ago). You’d get ponding if you didn’t pay attention, but any reasonably able glasser could avoid ponding in the lam. Heck, the resin gels in 20 minutes, right? How could it pond during a lam coat in that time unless you were asleep? As for hot coats, just brush on a little thin and keep an eye on it. Thin HC will be okay if the lam was a little thick, you’re just trying to seal it for the most part. I had no trouble with finish coats ponding, but back then I didn’t thin my finish coats with styrene.
Charlies right, good lord how much resin are you putting in the lam. You shouldn’t have any pooling at all. Just enough resin to saturate the weave and not leave any dry spots nothing more. The hot coat just fills the little pinholes left in the lam coat. sand smooth and use just enough gloss to finish glass flat. Easy right…er right. -Jay
Another thing. Use UV resin, get it perfect and walk it outside…Bam it kicks off in 30 seconds, never a reason for pooling. UV additive costs about $6 for a gallon of resin. ( about the same as liquid catalyst) Money well spent. -Jay
Well, i’m less than halfway reasonable in my own estimations, but only the sanding resin has ponded on me (one board, first concave glassed and third board done) But i think with the advice and vigalance in the future things will work out. Thanks fer the help.