I have had a request to build a custom board for a friend. He’s a big Rig at 6’4" and 100kg’s (220lbs). He’s extremely fit, however, has never surfed before and and will have limited time to surf due to his job. I’m totally stoked to have been offered the opportunity from the other side of the continent to build this guy a board. Most of the breaks in West Oz are fast left hand reef and point breaks. So with that in mind I thought a retro Mini Gun or Tracker style board might be suitable.
I’ve attached a photo of the board I’ve designed on a CAD program. I use it to get the outline template I print off and then pick a blank that has the rocker I’m after. The Dimesions are; 7’0" x 22.5" x 2.75" and just shy of 50lts. The blank I’m considering for rocker is attatched in a pic also. (Hawaiian Rocker). So I think those dims give him enough foam for sure with his level of fitness and lack of experience.
I’m currenly riding a similar shape I built at 6’9" x 21" x 2.75" (the board pictured) with a pulled in pin tail, slight V-bottom and a Greenough 4A flex fin. I love it! Now the reason I’m stuck on bottom contours is my board goes great in anything until it gets fast and hollow… then my skills at generating speed are challenged and Im then wishing I had some concave. I’m thinking this guys board will be wanting concave for his wave conditions but I need to get it right with that width at 22.5". It needs to get on rail after all. So should I go V bottom to double concave out the tail.? or double concave right through the V from about centre through out the back…? or am I way off the mark all together haha. What would you be doing on the bottom given the wave condition and extreme width of the board??? The goal being getting it on rail and keeping up with those faster waves.
Thanks for your time and knowledge. Hope these pics load…
I’d build him a 9’ 6" board, 23" wide, 3" thick, flat bottom low rocker thruster, typical longboard planshape but with a bit more pulled in nose and bit more nose rocker, to help with the pearling problem beginners typically have, and because he won’t really be noseriding it.
Yep. Serious. But your totally right. He wouldn’t know the difference. But I’m not going to sell him short of the best board I can provide him just because he doesn’t know any better.
I first thought a longboard but has has to travel with it you see. I dont want the dude having to lug a heavy 9+ board around airports. So Thats why I was trying to come up with an alternative. I decided on that shape due to the stability. with the heavy volume forward and a pinched nose these things dont pearl to easy. And they are super stable with the width and a big fin.This guy is really fit and nimble for his size and picks things up pretty quick. I think he will be fine. I keep boards pretty simple due to my lack of experience. I just do this for a bit of fun so me and my mates can ride a heap of boards and enjoy ourselves. You cant beat riding a board you built yourself. good or bad.
So my question for concave is simply for my own knowledge and to give my mate a board that with be right for his waves and will see him through for a while without the need for constant upgrades.
Ramble, Take a look at Robin Mairs boards. i think you might give you a better Idea on what you are looking to do. He has a very unique Bottom it’s like a cross between the McCoy round dome bottom and a V Bottom very interesting as it is a doom spliting the concave with a quad fin set up. Robin isa pretty good guy and an artist with foam and fins. Look up Robin on Face Book he does post here now and again.
For an intermediate surfer that size (6’ 4", 220 lbs.), I don’t think you need v on that board, he should be able to put that thing on rail any old time he wants, subtle single concave should be fine IMO.
Huck, that sounds good too. I guess i dont want it rocking like a v bottom dingy for a tall guy finding his feet. And your right. When he gets better he will have plenty of leverage. I might put a couple more inches in the length for good measure.
Do you not think with a 2+1 set up it would be pretty steady with a 16" tail? Perhaps beefed up a touch more. Another half inch wider. The pins are quite squirely on the tail but a round tail should be smooth? I have seen a few boards like this with a squared off tail but ive not ridden one…
So I’ve added some beef and its looking alot better. Still keeping it shortish for travel convenience. 7’2" x 23" × 2.75". Maybe 3". Nose 17.50 and tail 16.50. Wide point 5" up for paddling and stability. he wont have to worry about foot placement too much. Give it a thick foil, down rails, a gentle single concave to a double/soft V tail. A 2+1 set up for starters and some quad rear plugs for later.
I had a good look through Robin Mair’s website. Some really cool stuff. And a good run down on his design features on all of his boards too which was helpful. Thanks for sharing that.
So Just thought I’d post the final result of my mates board I made.
He insisted on chopping the length to under 7’. So I made it wide throughout with some fun wings to losen it up. Give it a shorter skatey feel…Fin choice will be everything on how this moster creation rides.
Its 6’9 x 22.75" x 2.75". Wide point a few inches forward. Glassed in Volan. Its got a very low continuous rocker for glide. Single concave with double/V through the fins so it can be genty pumped. Modern low Boxy rails with a soft tucked edge transitioning into the concave to assist that. Should absolutely hoot down the line and entertain some skatey turns and carves. A unique ride and feel for sure.
I so badly want to ride it myself because I love this sort if stuff. Hopefully when he picks it up we can go for a wave and I can taste the fruits of my labour! My brother rides HPSB’s religeously and cant understand why anyone would want to ride anything other than whats current in mick fannings quiver. But he’s into throwing tail and busting airs and replacing snapped or creased boards every 2-3 months. haha. Each to their own. I’d rather chill bang and enjoy the wave. A feel only Single fins and keels can provide.
Going to Bali with him soon, my quiver of singles and keels and his of 3 identicle toothpicks… My last hoorah to try and have this “sheeple” appreciate diversity in board designs and surfing style. wish me luck!
Anyways, feel free to pick it to bits. I’m a garage amature from kook town with no end of learning ahead of me.
