I think most places lam with clear then paint a polyurethane coating for the color. Seems like that would be easier.
I’d would use Carbon Fiber if I knew how to laminate in a bag. Heck, I’ve only used the bag myself twice, it’s always been me helping Bernie.
I take your point, SC, but spraying PU properly is tough for me. I think just sanding pigmented resin will be easier. But that’s just me.
all the best
I spray clear and colors over glassed boards, but use rattle can crap. One day, I’ll use a spray kit Bernie gave me and do it right.
From my tests You have to had way more pigment past to noticeably modified resin properties than what You need for coloring. And what You modified is You reduce stiffness and increase elongation to break, not necessairely a bad thing.
Mat, Is it still a good rule of thumb, up to 3 percent pigment per mixed batch of resin, before there is an adverse affect?
Greg, thanks for doing the tests. On my last carbon fiber deck patch I pigmented the resin during the lam. Not a 100% white-out but enough for me to feel good about not setting up an EPS meltdown with black materials in direct sunlight.
I had trouble seeing the numbers so I added them in on the pic below.
With specific for resin coloring past you can add up to 10%. For lam i avoid to go up to 3% too.
Yeah Greg! This is the kind of stuff we need more of around here! How do you evaluate # of pinholes… with a magnifying glass? Several ways around those including sealing the foam with epoxy bog to minimize resin drain from the laminate.
I am in agreement with LeMat… while theoretically weaker, the actual material properties of epoxy seem barely affected by moderate use of pigments. I have used white pigmented resin to laminate and fill coat carbon to get that ‘scrubbed hippy/acid washed Levi’s’ look. It all seemed good.
Thanks y’all. Lemat I agree with you and on a basic short board I wouldn’t worry too much but on a 12 ft prone paddle board for which I have paid $100’s for the carbon fiber I want it as strong as it can be.
John, Prolink tells me they are putting some additives in to help with the pin hole issue. But on panel tow I used 2oz cloth as a sacrificial sanding layer and assume that that helps mitigate the pin holes. Just an assumption. I really like the look of my test panel with Prolink. I’ll update when I have something to show.
All the best
J, thanks. that is a killer paddle board you posted. I should be so talented. But I’m not.
all the best
I have just been testing the same thing myself trying to find a way to do a sandwich but keeping the temps down but still having the benafits of the carbon stiffness.
I have been experimenting with laying up with white pigmented epoxy with 4 and 6 oz over the top, there was a significant differeance in tempriture between the two with the 6 being slightly more opaque and cooler. The white 3D corecell was the best however which has carbon on the back and 6 oz glass on the front. The cork allso performed quite well. The silver cloth over carbon did not make a huge differance.
I have just orderd a few samples of coloured glass to try from this place