Getting ready to paint sealed EPS as well as some Clark blanks and was wondering if Epoxy (RR) is prone to crystallize? Had a bad experience with a dark blue on my last board, the whole bottom crystallized even after a finishing coat of future. Did not know if this is a reaction with the poly or just a symptom of covering a painted surface with a substance that gets hot. Couldn’t find a yes or no in the archive and would sure like to use that blue paint I have left over.
Thanks!
Howzit?!? The crystallization is a de-lam deal with p.e., where the resin doesn’t stick to the paint, usually if the paint is too thick. I’ve watched it happen right before my eyes as the resin is going off. It seems to me that RR is such super glue, that it sticks to anything. So far, I haven’t seen or heard of it happening with RR, but I could be wrong? Aloha…RH
Howzit vortex, Make sure your paint is really dry between coats and not to thick. If the paint is not dry it traps the moisture between the paint layers and the heat from resin kicking pulls the moisture to the surface,ergo crystallization. Red and Black are the biggest culprits most likely to crystalize but I have seen it happen with dark blues and greens also. It can happen before your eyes as the board kicks or it can happen over night which I just saw happen to a board a friend glassed in my shop the other day. Board looked fine after he laid it up but the next day the rails were fully crystallized. With epoxy you may have a better chance of none since epoxy kicks at a slower rate. Aloha,Kokua
You said after a coat of “future”, was that future floor sealer? as a finish top coat? Waxes and silicone
Some colors it seems that no amount of time left to dry is enough, my solution was to do a completely dried out lam, open windows between the weave. After going off good, come back and squeegee fill coat, then drop on laminates. After a while you get to now which colors will bite you on the ass
Yea I used multiple light coats, 24 hours apart and still had the problem. The paint (Liquitex) was cut with future (floor finish) and I also did a finishing coat of future on the paint before lam. I just went from an airbrush (small designs) to a spray gun (full side/boards) so i could still be in the learning stages and putting it on too thick. I was hoping that this was a reaction of the poly, because it is one of the worst feelings in the world to see your new paint job look like broken glass.
Well at least I have gotten away from making my house smell like a toxic waste plant with the poly. The wife if very HAPPY! Boy I miss my old shed! Thanks for all your help.
Aloha! Liquitex is loaded with acrylic, that’s what makes it so durable. It was originally made for doing paintings, as an alternative to using oil paints. The water base dries a lot faster than linseed oil in oil paints. The acrylic base holds the pigments together. Adding more Future to thin it out adds more acrylic. Finishing with more Future adds even more. Essentially, you pasted your blank with a ton of acrylic plastic before you glassed it. It’s no wonder the resin didn’t stick to all that. You just need water to thin the solid Liquitex to make it sprayable. There is so much plastic already in that paint, that you can tape right over it, and don’t need a fixative to hold the color in place. For a general fixative, I use a real light coat of flat clear laquer. The foam needs to have some texture to let the resin get a solid bond to it. Filling up the texture with too much material leads to disaster. Aloha…RH
Howzit Rick,I make a batch of 50% water and 50% acrylic panit thinner for thinning paints and it seems to work well. I've found that using just water works until you thin the paint to much and there's not enough acrylic in the paint and then it wants to bleed.There's also the tempra/ water / thinned elmers glue mix that JD likes to use.Aloha,Kokua