I am doing a 9’ longboard (from a 9’1"Y). 18"x22.5"x16". I got some 7.5 oz. Volan cloth (30" wide) for the bottom and will do a cut lap on it. My question, instead of doing a traditional cut lap that follows the outline of the rail, has anyone ever cut a patttern into the cutlap? I am thinking of taping the deck off, and instead of using a scribe tool, free hand a pattern (like a series of linear cuts, for a broken glass look or some curves that look like waves). I am going to glass two layers of 6oz. silane over it and I know that I will have to watch out for air bubbles along my cut line, but it does not seem like it would be that big of a deal. I know that when doing a deck patch (say in the middle of the board) you have to be careful of the shape of the patch because flex stress would be carried along this line and if you do, say a straight line across from rail to rail, the board would break along this line if stressed enough. Would irregular cuts in the cutlap relate to this in any way? It seems like it would look pretty cool (if done right), but I have never seen anyone do it. Would an irregular cut lap on the deck do anything to compromise the strength or flex characteristics of the board? Thanks for any info.
Mike: I’ve seen some older boards that had an opaque bottom lam that was lapped and cut with something other than a straight outline of the rail line. The one I have in mind was a flair at mid rail that came to a point. Seems as though you could tape off whatever your heart desires and cut it out, just remember you MIGHT have to pinline that same outline. I can’t see any structural reason why this would be a problem. Be sure and post a pic! TS > I am doing a 9’ longboard (from a 9’1"Y). > 18"x22.5"x16". I got some 7.5 oz. Volan cloth (30" > wide) for the bottom and will do a cut lap on it. My question, instead of > doing a traditional cut lap that follows the outline of the rail, has > anyone ever cut a patttern into the cutlap? I am thinking of taping the > deck off, and instead of using a scribe tool, free hand a pattern (like a > series of linear cuts, for a broken glass look or some curves that look > like waves). I am going to glass two layers of 6oz. silane over it and I > know that I will have to watch out for air bubbles along my cut line, but > it does not seem like it would be that big of a deal.>>> I know that when doing a deck patch (say in the middle of the board) you > have to be careful of the shape of the patch because flex stress would be > carried along this line and if you do, say a straight line across from > rail to rail, the board would break along this line if stressed enough. > Would irregular cuts in the cutlap relate to this in any way? It seems > like it would look pretty cool (if done right), but I have never seen > anyone do it.>>> Would an irregular cut lap on the deck do anything to compromise the > strength or flex characteristics of the board? Thanks for any info.
Mike:>>> I’ve seen some older boards that had an opaque bottom lam that was lapped > and cut with something other than a straight outline of the rail line. The > one I have in mind was a flair at mid rail that came to a point. Seems as > though you could tape off whatever your heart desires and cut it out, just > remember you MIGHT have to pinline that same outline. I can’t see any > structural reason why this would be a problem. Be sure and post a pic!>>> TS Triple Lightning Bolt rail cuts??? Did and had a lot of those in the 70’s with triple ( blk, white,blk )touching pin lines… Canary Yellow bottom with ice blue tint deck way cool… Try it you’ll hate me… http://surfnwsc.com
if you guys do a cut lap…do you put a thin coat of lam. resin before lam’ing the deck? so that no air bubbles form under the cloth. ???
if you guys do a cut lap…do you put a thin coat of lam. resin before > lam’ing the deck? so that no air bubbles form under the cloth. ??? I think your talking about bubbles under the cloth at the cut line?? You get them because you haven’t cleaned the cut good enough. I use a razer blade to scrape after i cut my lap plus a little white Mirka 80 grit sandpaper. Dip the paper in some acetone and shake off the extra tone. then sand your laps. make sure not to hit the FOAM!!! Most air comes from bad prep… Always prep good cause it makes your next step come out that much cleaner… When your pulling resin from the deck down the rail use your fingers and work resin into the lap cut… Now it should be real wet and most bubbles where worked out by your fingers… I refer to this as Finger Fu@%&^#@ it works the resin into the rail and any air you may have gotten in your bottom lap… After all the rail is wet do a cris/cross stroke down the rail from nose to tail. Working the air down the rail. Then from nose to tail and down the rail level your lam puling all the extra resin off the rail. Bam no air!!! If you paste before you lam on the cut two things can happen stress cracks can show up under the cloth where you put paste. Paste will make for a weak glass job. Plus a bumpy rail layup… Keep it clean!!! Good Prep less Crap… Prep Prep Prep http://surfnwsc.com
I am trying to think of something that would look good, but won’t be a nightmare to cut out & clean up. The last thing I want to happen is for my lap to harden before I can get everything cut out cleanly. Thanks to all for the feedback.
it is safe to grind the lap cut edges? won’t grinding the cloth make it be discolored?
it is safe to grind the lap cut edges? won’t grinding the cloth make it be > discolored? Very little one covers cutlines with pinlines??? If it’s Volan and will be a clear roll with a wall paper roller small one for corners… Roll it on the cut edge after a light clean up… You need to roll after it has gone off enough but never hard??? Dark tints ( Red, Dk.Blue )would show if you prep to much… Pigment not so much. When learning to do color do Pigments not tint’s… Keep it simple it takes years to be Cleanline??? Baby steps??? Clear? at first… http://surfnwsc.com
Very little one covers cutlines with pinlines???>>> If it’s Volan and will be a clear roll with a wall paper roller small one > for corners… Roll it on the cut edge after a light clean up… You need to > roll after it has gone off enough but never hard???>>> Dark tints ( Red, Dk.Blue )would show if you prep to much… Pigment not so > much. When learning to do color do Pigments not tint’s…>>> Keep it simple it takes years to be Cleanline???>>> Baby steps???>>> Clear? at first… I use a little air angle grinder to just barely clean up the edge.The little bit of white discoloration will not show.To be safe take a round artists brush and paint clear lam resin along the line it may not be necessary but it doesn’t take much time…little bubbles along the lap will whack out your pinline…always look ahead…take your time…you ain’t in aproduction line…R. Brucker