So today I did a color job and I taped the lap very well, went over it several times to build up a nice layer and then put masking paper through the entire center. I got the laps layed down and it looked like it was going well. I cut the lap after it gelled and then when I pulled the tape/paper off there were several areas that bled through. I realize you simply do a pinline to cover this small areas but some areas are 2-3 inches toward the center. Any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.
well thats a bummer
maybe just use the same color while laming the deck?
or maybe cut out the sections with the color then glue in some pieces of foam and reshape?
To prevent this from happening next time, after you run your tape, but before you do your pigmented layer, take some unpigmented resin and baste the tape line. If your tape is stuck down well on a smooth surface, the clear resin will fill the area along the tape line that would otherwise bleed. Then do your pigmented lamination as usual.
To fix this on your current board, pretty much your options are to sand/scrape out the pigmented area or just do a pinline or two to cover it up. The pinline will be much easier than getting the cutlap perfect, and probably look better.
You can sand off te resin with a hard block although it may alter the shape. Use good tape. And push hard on it. It happens haha.
cycloxslug,
would that show an “off” color around that area because clear hit the foam before the color did in those areas? thanks
w1978,
I don’t have problems if I air compressor off the blank, use good tape, and run over the edge with a popsicle stick
What a bummer. We all know your pain as mistakes are a necessary part of perfecting the techniques of board building. As other have said, sand the area to remove the color bleed. When this happened to me, I found a graphic i liked and printed out multiple ones to cover the areas that were sanded (I used nautical stars). Post some pics if you can.
This happened to me a few weeks ago and I asked the exact same question. Pinlines, graphics, logos were all suggested. All options but not what I wanted to hear. The best advice was from sanocal and I suggest you try it. Let the OOPS $%&*^ resin dry and cure. Pick up a clean razor blade and fire up your heat gun. A few waves over top with some heat and the resin crumbles off of the top of the foam as you carfully use the razor as a scaper. I was amazed. Better than sanding and gouging.
Beware using clear resin on the foam first. If you are using anything but 100% opaques you will see the basting line on your board.
Did you use quality 3M tape?
233 not Home Depot stuff.
Like Stingray says, the type of tape you use is very important. Not all tapes are created equal. 3M 233+ and Suretape brand have both worked well for me. Make sure you press the outside edge of the tape firmly to the foam to eliminate bleed.
~Brian
I couldn't find 233+ where I am so I used 3M blue masking for painting. I wasn't getting good adhesion to the board so I layed on some extra sticky packing tape and built up a base. I took another look at it last night and I think I have a plan to fix it. I am going to "paint" the foam with a dark opaque resin base directly on the foam and then do a clear glass over it. It wasn't exactly what I was going for but it should work out ok as long as I keep the base resin thin without alot of bumps.
The blue tape is not designed for resin use. Use it and you will fail. 3m 233 is good, but 231 is best, because of the paper and adhesive they use to make it; still its not cheap, but how much time is it going to take to fix? Make sure the board is blown off completely before putting tape down, and go over tape with a stir stick, or an unwrapped razor blade taking caution to not mar the foam, but to put pressure directly on the edge of the tape; then you will see good results.
Mr rat is spot on.
I always run tape to clean my blank after 1) using a bench brush to clean blank, 2) blowing off with a ( dry tank)compressor...you keep a dry tank by making sure you leave the release valve open during storage.
Go to an automotive store and buy real tape, you will only have to g around the board once. If you want real good stuff, get the 3M automotive refinishing tape...it's yellow. and it wont let go or melt away.
Sorry about your board....maybe do more of it and then outline with a posca pen in black?
The 3M blue tape has morphed into a painters tape.........I'll keep it at that...Painters tape..like in painting walls, and concrete block..and windows. Not painting foam.
You need high adhesion, and high temp. There's nothing at HD that works extremely well. The closest thing would be the 3M green tape at HD.. But I know..it's expensive. Not so expensive now though..right?
Making surfboards is often times a comedy of errors. Tragic when things go wrong, but they often do, so anyone who has been doing it a while becomes skilled in cover-ups, and it only really sucks when they are custom orders. Unless it’s a custom you will never have to explain what the paint on the hot coat or the randomly placed sticker is for. Still one can minimize potential problems by using the best materials whenever possible.
About twenty years ago a Hawaiian Homestead guy butchered a monk seal on a beach in Kauai, and shared the meat with his friends. I think of resinhead when I recall this in my mind; yeah that’s random.
…hey Resinhead, I use the somewhat difficult to locate 3M 03431; that s Green and similar to the 233.
more randomness: still waiting for 3M to do eye protection that can be used with their paper masks…
Incredible that such biggie do not think that both things must be matched…
Ok, the other brands do not have em too…
The straps on the full faces 6000 models are the definition of crap
and a long etc
that seems guys, designers, etc that earns big bucks cannot thought a minute on these
Speaking of 3M 233 tape, I have seen it at every marine supply store I have been to, sometimes in multiple sizes. Most of those stores that carry boating supplies have a fiberglass and resin aisle and chances are they have the good tape. If you live near the coast there is a marine store in the vicinity.
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The 3M blue tape has morphed into a painters tape.........I'll keep it at that...Painters tape..like in painting walls, and concrete block..and windows. Not painting foam.
You need high adhesion, and high temp. There's nothing at HD that works extremely well. The closest thing would be the 3M green tape at HD.. But I know..it's expensive. Not so expensive now though..right?
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"Painters tape" for painting houses...ha ha... not for cars. Most stuff for cars works great for surfboards but you can't buy it at Home Depot....Nope, you might have to pay full price for REAL tape...and $9.00 for a roll of 2" is not too bad....I just used some of the yellow stuff but don't have a price...worked very good......I'm sure it's not cheap.
and to add insult to injury....epoxy resin takes so long to cure it eats away at your cheap tape...even the good stuff....
Home Depot 3M 2020 will work for most surfboard stuff...but not cut laps or epoxy work....Ray
I snuck up on a case of 2" 233 on Ebay last year for $23. They have a lot of it listed. Any decent sized town has Auto Paint suppliers. I buy all of my tapes/sandpaper/clearcoats etc. from a local place that has great prices. Funny thing is that nobody usually knows that these places even exist because they don’t usually adevertise and only sell to auto body shops.
Ghettorat nailed it on using the stuff. You have to blow off the board and press the tape down. Another thing to remember is that it’s not good to tape a board off and just leave it laying around for days on end. Best to do the glassing within a day or so.
If you use uv catalyst with polyurethane resin, can you skimp on the tape. I only ask because the tape would be on the board or a maximun of twenty minutes.
Why would someone “skimp” on tape? It makes no sense to me at all. I mean we are talking five dollars. Tell ya what…don’t eat lunch today and go buy a roll of tape. You will be happier and healthier at the end of the day.