I think Bill is probably referring to Poly, but I will let him answer that. I've never done it that way but it makes sense to me. Poly or Epoxy; I would think that you would not want the "light baste" that Bill refers to to set up enough to become brittle and therefore chip or crack when you cut your lap and pull your tape. I am also assuming that the "light baste" would be clear. Aside from that; remember that pigmented resin takes longer to set. Keep an eye on it. Don't walk away, go have a few Coronas etc. and forget about it. It will set up quicker in the pail. So watch it and test it somewhere on the tape. Vigilance Bro. Lowel
The basting of the tape line just needs to fill the seam line so that no color from the lam seeps under the tape. If using poly, let the resin set well before doing the color lamination. The use of 233 masking tape is a must for good results, as indicated above.
So in haste I must have missed one spot while taping and covering the deck with paper. The yellow pigment from the bottom lamination found its way to the deck. I want to leave the deck clear. Is there any way to remove the stain on the deck or do I have to color the deck too?
Man…just when I think I am getting this thing nailed, I run into another error:(
So in haste I must have missed one spot while taping and covering the deck with paper. The yellow pigment from the bottom lamination found its way to the deck. I want to leave the deck clear. Is there any way to remove the stain on the deck or do I have to color the deck too?
Man...just when I think I am getting this thing nailed, I run into another error:(
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hahahaa - welcome to surfboard making 101! Don't think you're alone. Here's one where I had planned a white deck, then I used a squeegee with orange pigment on it while glassing the deck, and had to get "creative". It really ticked me off at the time, but now I like it, and when I had to do some major repairs on the nose, the orange splotches helped me hide the repairs better.
Its all relative, this stuff seems important, but we're really just building water toys. Keep it in perspective, learn from each board, enjoy the journey. There's probably a lot of ways to hide or disguise the stain, got any pics to show us?
Start by buying a roll of 233 3M tape. Then remember to not stretch your tape to much when taping off. I use 2 inch 233 green at 12 bucks a roll. I then pull the tape keeping it flat as can. I then take my scribe and cut my lap tape. Peal off the excess fill in with cheap 2 buck chuck tape. Screw the paper to much of a pain. Now that the tape is down, cut and filled. I then take my heat gun and walk the tape edge. That puffs up the foam and closes the cut In the foam from my scribe. It also heats the tape which makes it stick a little better. Never get any tape bleed. As far as removing any that got under the tape heat gun and tape to pull it off. Heat will soften the resin but you may need to scrape with a razor blade big chucks of resin. Heat gun is a glasser best friend. So many uses. After you have as much of the bleed removed take your screen and heat gun and heat then screen while its still hot and soft. Its never easy but its the best way I have found in 40 years. Just don’t heat to much foam will burn and it will only puff so much. The best 20 buicks spent is on a Heat gun. Foam dents heat them away. Stringer tears from block planes heat them away. Sand paper stuck to a sanding pad. Heat it away. The list of use is to long. Buy a heat gun if you do any color work. My 3 cents
While I was sleeping last night I was thinking of a few ways to make the ‘oh shit’… go away. Resin swirlis are on the top of the list for sure but a last resort if I can’t make the bleed go away. Not so much of a bleed actually. I will explain in a minute…Thanks Huck Notice how the bleeds are where the glassing rack may have rested:(
PS…just added the pic of my shed. Thought it was cool the way the yellow was glowing while I was waiting to cut the cutlap.
I used 233 3 M tape and paper. It was not so much of a bleed as a glassing rack problem. This is a 5’10" egg and the racks are quite far apart. I put the tape on the board and filled it in with paper…the good stuff. I had placed reverse turns of tape on the glassing rack to prevent the board from slipping while glassing. Get the visual…sticky tape on the glassing rack attached to paper on the deck…glassing racks so close toe the tip and tail I have to lift the board off of the rack to lap the nose and tail…ripped the paper and there was enough transfer on the glassing rack that it stained the foam. f$%#(
Mental note…get adjustable glassing racks.
Thanks Sano. I have a heat gun and have used it to remove foam dents. I will take a few razor blades, screen and a heat gun to see what I can do.
I have hidden mistakes behind resin tints and artwork before. These are some good examples of this…
In this case I was being stubborn and wanted a clear deck. I was pleasantly surprised with the heat gun and a clean razor blade. I will note that the blotches dried overnight. The stain simply dusted away like there wasn’t any resin. A little hit with the air gun and bam…clean clear deck again. Another save…
Cool - good save, and good on Sano for the tip, I'll have to remember that one. Myself I try not to have too firm an idea of what the finished product will look like, I just let it evolve as I go. I tend to do a lot of creative u-turns and other directional changes in mid-stream. And I just don't stop until I like it. If I don't like it, then I'm not finished yet LOL.
I started doing ding repairs on this yardsale find. Then I added a tail and nose block. Then half way through, I decided I didn't like the way it looked. So instead of repairing the rest of the dings, I just filled them with spackle, sanded the whole bottom, painted it, and re-glassed. Now I like it. I'm finished.
