Do you just take the board out in the sun, let it cure a little bit and then take it back inside for the cutlaps. After done with cutlaps just return back to outside? Wouldn’t this cause problems with the lamination as far as random things like airbubbles go?
thanks, grobeyy
also, can anyone tell me simply the suggested set up (angle, location, etc) of fins on a twin keel fin fish?
thanks again
when you put it in the sun, the laps will take longer to cure. bring it
in when the top side is hard, and the laps are just gelled. cut 'em,
and put it back outside for the full cure.
grobevy,
That’s how I do my cutlaps with uv resin. No bubbles from that procedure, yet.
Here’s where I put my keels. 1 1/8 inch to 1 1/4 inch from rails. Rear edge lined up with end of butt crack (Butt crack 5.5 to 7 inches deep). Double foiled fins parellel with stringer and no cant. Single foiled fins toe-in 1/8th of an inch and canted 2 ot 3 degrees. Hope that helps. Mike
Watch the cure time on tha laps. A bright sunny day, and a minute or two exposure of the laps to straight sun and your screwed.
IF it’s bright out, I take the board out in the sun and NEVER turn it over. Let the top cure, which should only be a few minutes. Bring it back in the shade and flip it over. Then take the board by the bottom and walk it into some UV exposure for a few seconds. Do this a few times till the laps start to get firm enough to trim.
Cutlaps are tricky with UV resin cause it can cure to fast…and nothing is worse than cutting laps with near fully cured cloth.
Drew
watch out with UV resin if your using any kind of color. If you let colored UV kick with out any catalyist you run the risk of gassing pin holes. Best to add just a little catalist in your UV let it kick slightly, then walk it outside. If you don’t then you get the top of the resin kicking off faster than the bottom and it bubbling and land a chemicaling it’s thang. Then here come the bubble, millions of tiny little bubbles that look like you board just came out of the bubble bath, but instead of your board being shiny and new, you board will take on water faster than a 70 year old hooker.
-Jay
Thanks for that tip Resinhead! If you wouldn’t have posted that then Grobeyy and myself would have been screwed.
Could you please tell me how much catalyst I would need to add to say 20 ounces of uv resin that I would add color to??
Does adding catalyst to the uv resin make any differences to the way the resin is (other than the stopping air bubbles one) that I should know about?? If you add catalyst to the UV resin then will the resin harden on it’s own or till it’s exposed to sunlight??
I take it that it would harden till it’s exposed to sunlight, but I want to make sure.
Thank you once again!
Well only truly apparent when your doing opaque colors, any opaque colors white-black, when your doing tints you have more latitude, but you should always add some catalyst as insurance, you don’t need much, like about 5 cc- 8cc per quart, maybe a little more or maybe a little less depending how fast you work. I mean the whole reason behind UV cure is increased work time and a decreased cure time…right, well if you let that resin sit on the blank too long and keep working it, its gonna start to seep into the blank and take on weight. So unless you want the Jenny Craig Rocket Fish Model, you should be doing lay ups in no more than 5-15 mins work time. So adding a little catyalist will keep your eye on the ball and the clock. 5 cc will give you about 30-40 mins of work time, but will start to snot up at about 25. Once it begins to kick a little then you can walk it outside for a quick 30-45 second blast of sun. Don’t over cook it. Think of it as a Turkey in the oven, don’t torch the outside, and keep the middle raw. Make sure the thing cooks evenly. One more thing, only use UV for lamination, use fully kicked resin for the hotcoat. You can still use the UV for the hotcoat, but put in a good dose of catylast in. Why, well if you hot coat a board in UV then you open the door up and move the board, your going to get that slabing resin pull away lumpy rail thing, or the beautiful orange peel texture that only a backyard board can acheive. Not that big of a thing if you like to sand and grind. I personally hate to sand.
Hope this answers some of your questions
-Jay
how do you get the glossy look after a hotcoat like on pro boards
isn’t it possible to do some kind of buffing after the hotcoat rather than do an additional gloss coat?
thanks,
grobey
Gloss resin my fine friend! Do all your hardcore sanding on the hot coat, get it baby butt smooth and flat, no wobbles, no dips, no woop di doos. Once thats done mix up a 10 oz batch of 30 cc cat kicked gloss resin and brush it on fast and smooth. Pour it on brush it side to side once and tip it out twice tip to tail, even if it has brush marks after that…walk away it will self level, even if you did a half ass job. close all doors, windows any source of breeze., ust walk away.
You can get the same effect with sanding resin except it doesn’t get as hard as gloss, or i should say it takes about a week for it the get as hard as gloss resin. Sanding resin will polish out like gloss but you got to run the grits, 150,220,320,400,600,800,1500,2000, then 3M polish…i used to do it this way before i knew about gloss. look up in the resources for the Gloss reciepe, or just buy a quart can from Mitch’s or your local surfboard supply house?
Your answer to the question: first off Hot Coat and Gloss are two different things. Hot Coat fills the weave in the lamination, and fills the tiny pin holes left in the lamination process. Gloss on the other hand, might fill a few left over pinholes, but is purely cosmetic, well it might add some strength, but not much. It just makes it purdy.
Must do Lamination, Must do Hot Coat, Must do sand Hot Coat, If you want shiney, then you gloss and polish it out…no way around that. You could spray it with clear Krylon, but then it looks like you sprayed it with clear Krylon.
If you want shiney, then you gloss and polish it out…no way around that. You could spray it with clear Krylon, but then it looks like you sprayed it with clear Krylon.
heh…nice. and totally true. there simply is no substitute for a good gloss coat. everyone is always looking for a shortcut, but if you’re gonna do it you’re best off to do it right. there are all these acryllic sealers on the market that say they look like a gloss & polish without all the effort. bullshit…if you want the look, put the work into it.