cutting outline...

i read the post down a little. whats the best way to shape up your outline so that its a perfect 90 deg. angle??? thanks for any info. Josh

I got your back on this one Josh. Put a “rabbiting fence” on your planer and use a 90 degree square to get it calibrated. I added a piece of thin masonite to my fence – enlarging it to about 10" by 6." I cut the outline with a saber saw and stay about 1/4 to 1/8th off the outline mark. Then, I put the board in the saddle, outline/bottom up, put the planner on the rail with the rabbiting fence on the bottom (bottem is facing up at this point). Left hand on the fence to keep it as flat against the board as possible. Mill to the line! Flip and do the other rail. Perfect 90 degree result – top and bottom outline match and are straight. Scott Planer with fence shown here:

So your theory only works w/ a flat bottom ? Would it not be better to have the blank laying flat on your racks , looking down at the line , holding the plane perpendicular? Then your looking down at your work ,eyeballing the line and your plane. I’ve seen it done with surfboards , and I plane doors that way as well. A 90 degree fence is going to violate the temple unless you have a completely flat bottom.

what do you suggest then???

Would it not be better to have the blank laying flat on your racks , looking down at the line , holding the plane perpendicular? Then your looking down at your work ,eyeballing the line and your plane. This way your registering your work with your own body and your tool.

ep’s point is accurate but would seem obvious. If the bottom of the board has some bumps form glue or a high stringer. etc, then you would want to take these down first. Clark blanks are usually pretty true to their specs – those that are not are generally noted in the technical literature.

Would it be better to eyeball it? Probably after you have done about 1000 boards.

When it comes to outlining, I like to run ALL the thicknesses in my blank first. Draw the planshape on the bottom, if it is a modern railed board and many retro designs. If I see a center stick that is crooked, I chalkline the deck and use the chalkline for dead center and draw the outline on the top. After it is sawn, using the planer vertially to true it up. I like looking down on the pencil line and you will eventually be able to hold the planer within a few degrees of what could be concidered perfect vertical

Also. the planer DOESN’T lie when it comes to outlines. Even with my templates, that I constantly look over to morp or true up, when I use multiple templates to draw up a shape, there are places that the planer wants to skip right by with the pencil line still showing. With a surform, you can clean up to the line, but inadvertantly create a flaw in the natural curve that the planer would have left behind. Run the planer on as minimal cut as possible from about 18" from nose and tail, back and forth, you will find the outline starting to get cleaner each time.

Hey Jim, tell 'em what kind of saw you use to cut the outline. (Some of you are not going to believe this)

use a circular saw. I’ve got a cordless 19V Ryobi, works great. I’ve tried to true up with a planer but when I get to the nose and tail it gets nasty.

i usually skin the bottome and get it level then i draw and cut my outline then come with my planer and true it up to the pencil lines. my thing is that sometimes when im hitting the rails with the planer it gets a little tilted so i have to make the board a little less wide or so… that what im trying to fix. thanks for all the info guys. any more would be AWESOME!!!

I do it it the way Jim Phillips said.One thing not mentioned is that your shaping stands need to be level side to side.If the board is tilted the cut will be angled.I center the crown of the deck in the stands and put a couple of weights to hold the blank steady.I have adjustable stands and i like to keep the board low (waist level)when truing an outline.I use a handsaw and cut about 1/8 inch from the line and let the planer do the rest…finish the ends with a surform and sanding block.Just take it easy. R.B.

Hi Guys I’m sure I’ve seen on Richard Harbour’s website, that he uses some kind of jig in conjunction with a router?? Might want to take a look? Cheers Peaman