Cutting time with a compsand


I’m trying to think of a way to cut the production time on a balsa compsand. How about this:

  • hotwire blank

  • cut oultine minus 1cm on both sides

  • shape deckcrown

  • vac. bag both sides at the same time (for ex. with 4oz and 2,5mm skins)

  • put the rails on. One side at a time

  • shape rails

  • put on tailbllock (assuming that I won’t need a noseblock when the rails at the nose are glued together nicely)

  • glass the bottom (for ex. 4oz freelap) when done and still wet, flip it and do the top)

  • fillercoats in one day

In this way you should be able to built a board in say 1,5 or 2 days… Right?

I’ve glassed one board before with the wet in wet technique; works alright… although it has some microbubbles on the rail… .

Any ideas, pointers or critic are welcome!!!


Hey ruub

If you put skins on first, then use a fillet to bond skin and rails See WMD thread for explanation.

Do both rails at the same time! Clamping them onto skinned blank with the rail offcuts. Rail offcuts are scotched onto a straight plank with double sided scotch.

And why not try and find some 5 minute epoxy to speed up the attachment of the N&T blocks? [i havent found any yet, reasonably priced, so let me know. 2 Components epoxy glue works great, but it is expensive]



hey mook it takes me about 8 hours to build a simple compsand shortboard and anything up to 15 hours on this latest cedar board which i will post finished shots soon.

so the time it takes to hotwire a flatboard, 5 minute epoxy the rails and cut the bands is actually fater then handshaping a polyurethane. materials are cheaper and overall times are faster if you include blank construction.

my core and rail cost is 15$ US ( i shit u not)

environmentally friendly and easy

to many taking something simple and overcomplicating it

grinding laps is a perfect example. if you glass correctly there is no grinding

Hi silly, 8h is pretty fast man!

I’m planning on doing the rails after I’ve skinned both sides: This hopefully saves some time. I used to: skin bottom, do the rails, then skin top. But shaping the deck and rails just takes longer then I reckon. Besides that, after skinning the top I always have to blend the overlap of the skin on the rails, which makes de skin close by the rail as thin as paper.

What about the wet in wet lamination: no grinding guaranteed.

Hot wire the blank , use 1.5 or 2# foam, cut out with a router/end mill and glue the high density rails on. Shape it and then bag both sides on using .6 mm bamboo. Pull it out of the bag and glass it. One shape, one bag. There are other methods but IMHO this is the easiest and it certainly gives you an accurate board coming out of a shaping room, shape finished…

Vacuum bagging and then cutting the board out and gluing the rails is a difficult challenge, causes a weak point at the rail and makes the rail difficult to glue on and glass. Plus glue on the veneer which has to be removed, you have to cut through wood and glass accurately (which is a pain compared to cutting foam) … I’ve done it lots of ways … I love having the shape done all at once and then bagging and glassing. Just easier.

i agree with greg if using foam or corcell/airex for the rails to do the rails first with 5 minute epoxy. i uses thicker skins so i can sand them and have plenty of material to shape into on the rail. its a different method to gregs. using 1 pound foam and thicker skins. where he uses heavier foam and thinner skins.

but assembly concepts are similar

i hotwire my blanks as a flatboard out of a 50mm homedepot sheet and bend the rocker in while bagging

that way your rail material is a flat strip rather then curved

uses far lest material and is faster

i think firewire copied this method as well

Hey Ruben

Waar was je vanmiddag??? Surf was goed!

Ruub, we have to go out and source and then buy some of the heavy foam, 60Kg/m3, i already have the bamboo skins,

2 types, vertically laminated and strips laminated, 0.6mm thick

lets do it!

oh, and find that damn 5 minute epoxy, i still havent found any.


I found 5 minute epoxy at the local hobby shop. They have it in rather small quanties but I never use much. It is perfect for nose/tail blocks.

hey greg

found some on ebay, haha

and then in holland fishing shops , like you mentioned in earlier posts. and online, i guess 100 grams hardener/100gr res is good enough…

for the rails, how much PSE should the EPS be? 60 being lowest, and 250 being highest…

i also have corecell, but you advice against it??

mook and i will make one real nice for sure! Get Europe in the movement.

I’ve only shaped with balsa so far; rails and sheets. As for the skinning first. Before this step I cut the outline first. After bagging there’s about half an inch of balsasheet overlap which is sanded of in say 10 minutes. When I should glue the rails afterwards, taping is nessecary to prevent glue dribs, especialy with pu glue. Indeed there’s a weak point between rails, deck and bottom… should I be worried about that???


That’s really cool man! First time I’ve heard of that. Next time I’ll save my rocker bed!


You went surfing?! O man, had to work!

I still haven’t found a chaep bambooman(plusminus 100€ per board)

As for the 5 mnutestuff: it’s called z-poxy… small amounts though. There’s also a guy I have call today who’s selling the stuff (035 6922684)

Ps how the longboard comming around?!


found the z-poxy too, online. cheap

now, who is your supplier for the 5# EPS stuff?? i want some, make a T-flex board, the one we spoke about? or just use corecell…

let me know!

btw, prefabbed rails and 1 skin on the longboard, check out the thread on page 2 or 3, will update soon, once batteries for cam are loaded


You can try the guys at Brands Composites or at Polycel in Gouda