NNNNNNNNNNNNNNice board Tom!! What was the base color for the tints? And did you put it directly on the foam? Keep up the excellent work bro. You are an inspiration to the rest of us hackers. ed
Yeah Tom - nice job! It looks very much like the Hamilton inspired Stylist II we were discussing recently.
GREAT board Tom. those resin pinlies are KILLER… how does one go about doing that? -steve
GREAT board Tom. those resin pinlies are KILLER… how does one go about > doing that? -steve Hey Tom those pinlines look a little off to me.(Just Kidding) Let me know when you are ready to do double or triples.
That board looks super fun Tom, great job.
Thanks for the kudos. Ed, actually the field color was to be orange, which it was in the bucket. Oh well, it came out an amber yellow once it hit the cloth and worked OK with the other colors. Steve, the pins are done after the hot coat, take your sanding down to 220 or higher to keep the “bleeding” along the scratches minimized. If your cut laps are nice and even then I’d use them as your first tape off guide. Second tape line determines the width of the pinline. How do you keep them flowing and even you ask? Don’t ask me, I suppose it takes more than 2 boards to get that part down, more like 200 I’d guess. USE GOOD TAPE, will save you major grief. Here’s how I do it: Use gloss resin loaded up with pigment, white added to your base color can help in opacity. Brush them on, go over them twice, MEK to go off in 15-20 min. Pull your tape, inside line first, after the resin is stiff. Clean the pins up when they are hard with razorblade wrapped with fine sandpaper. Sand the wax off the top and gloss. Anyone out there want to correct me on this or add tips please do!>>> GREAT board Tom. those resin pinlies are KILLER… how does one go about > doing that? -steve
tom, steel wool works good after cleaning up the edges of the pinline. gets the wax off and blends the line. but remember, you didn’t hear that from me.