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13 years old caught inside on a very big day at Coogee Beach point, lost my board and wearing a very heavy O’Neil steamer. Couldn’t get in because the rip was so bad. Thank you Tim Franicis for saving my life, I nearly drowned.
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16 years old trying to do a 360 air. Board went up I went down and was hit on the back of the head with the fin. 5 stitches. I still remember seeing my hair stuck into the smashed fin tip.
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43 years old (two weeks ago) 6" - 1’ waves. Standing in the water with my 28lb HWS. Turned to check on the girls. WHITE OUT!!! smashed in the side of the face by the board by a 1.5’ set wave. My wife was on the beach and saw it happen, she said I was throwing my arms around. What I was doing was trying to find the board half stunned so it wouldn’t hit me again.
And I was the one that kept yelling at the girls telling them never put the board between the wave and yourself…
Always learning…
cheers
Hicksy