This might be archived but I will fly it any way.I do a lot of semi opaque cut lap laminations and have always wanted a darker tape that I could see better during the trim.Ive had this blue tape lying around for ever but it is “light tack” and will not adhere to the foam very well…any way I found out that by applying it on top of the first layer it stuck fine.I could clearly see it under and opaqe baby blue lamination and I had no bleed problems.I was stoked and figured I would let you know.Kokua?Herb?C.D.B…ever heard of this?It’s great to be back on Swaylocks…Aloha.
This might be archived but I will fly it any way.I do a lot of semi opaque > cut lap laminations and have always wanted a darker tape that I could see > better during the trim.Ive had this blue tape lying around for ever but it > is “light tack” and will not adhere to the foam very well…any > way I found out that by applying it on top of the first layer it stuck > fine.I could clearly see it under and opaqe baby blue lamination and I had > no bleed problems.I was stoked and figured I would let you > know.Kokua?Herb?C.D.B…ever heard of this?It’s great to be back on > Swaylocks…Aloha. They have a laquere grade of the green and blue tapes, I’ve found by using one after the first piece is layed on the trim line for pin lining, you can come back with a colored tape and get some contrast for these tired eyes.
I’ve used black electrician’s tape over masking tape for solid whites and yellows.
I’ve used black electrician’s tape over masking tape for solid whites and > yellows. Thanks John,you know I tried that in a test but my squeegee started picking up color residue…then again I guess that electricians tape comes in different grades just like masking tape…Jim Phillips,you turned me on to that a while ago and it is a lifesaver for “fat” pinlines.
Hi, This is what I posted some time ago and works for me. Before I tape the blank I use the rail line tool, to draw I nice even line on both rails, then tape it alongside this line. Then after glassing I use the same tool but this time with a cutter, to make the same nice even cut in the glas . (Don’t re adjust the tool) Its easyer this way to follow the already cutted line with a normal cutter when you use pigment or opaque its some times hard to see the tape. Peter Rijk.
This might be archived but I will fly it any way.I do a lot of semi opaque > cut lap laminations and have always wanted a darker tape that I could see > better during the trim.Ive had this blue tape lying around for ever but it > is “light tack” and will not adhere to the foam very well…any > way I found out that by applying it on top of the first layer it stuck > fine.I could clearly see it under and opaqe baby blue lamination and I had > no bleed problems.I was stoked and figured I would let you > know.Kokua?Herb?C.D.B…ever heard of this?It’s great to be back on > Swaylocks…Aloha. I tried the blue tape some years ago when They changed the adhesive on 3-M 2050 tape but its adhesive was inferior for resin work. I use 3-M 233 tape for all my resin apps. I guess after 30+ years you just know where the tape line is. But if it makes the job easier then I say go with it. Aloha, Kokua
…I just double up my tape on the line, sometimes triple with blacks.But like Kokua said got with it.Herb
I tried the blue tape some years ago when They changed the adhesive on 3-M > 2050 tape but its adhesive was inferior for resin work. I use 3-M 233 tape > for all my resin apps. I guess after 30+ years you just know where the > tape line is. But if it makes the job easier then I say go with it. Aloha, > Kokua Yep I totally agree on the 233 thing,I really like the green for resin pins on light backgrounds.The main reason I’m messing around with tapes is due to the fact that I am doing some odd shaped lams…tapered…narrow at tail going wider at nose (70’s lighting bolt style).The double up deal works great Herb,I just like to mess around with new stuff.I used the double tape method on the “ice cream” deckpatch in the Damascus glassing film.Thanks for the help. R.B.
Stacking the tape sounds like the way to go as does using darker colors. Once in a while I’ve gotten out of a pinch using one of those high intensity halogen work lights on the floor pointing up under the board, with the lights off in the room. You get a good contrast in tapelines on the blank. This works pretty good on some cloth inlays that can put a wrinkle on your brow. Tom Sterne > Yep I totally agree on the 233 thing,I really like the green for resin > pins on light backgrounds.The main reason I’m messing around with tapes is > due to the fact that I am doing some odd shaped lams…tapered…narrow at > tail going wider at nose (70’s lighting bolt style).The double up deal > works great Herb,I just like to mess around with new stuff.I used the > double tape method on the “ice cream” deckpatch in the Damascus > glassing film.Thanks for the help. R.B.
Yep I totally agree on the 233 thing,I really like the green for resin > pins on light backgrounds.The main reason I’m messing around with tapes is > due to the fact that I am doing some odd shaped lams…tapered…narrow at > tail going wider at nose (70’s lighting bolt style).The double up deal > works great Herb,I just like to mess around with new stuff.I used the > double tape method on the “ice cream” deckpatch in the Damascus > glassing film.Thanks for the help. R.B. It’s good to experiment with different materials. Just look at what Herb comes up with, who would ever think of tearing a disposible diaper apart for filler.I don’t think i’ve seen the green tape,but then again here on Kauai our resources are some what limited. Aloha, Kokua