First time poster but have read a lot on the site. Question regarding applying decals AFTER tinted laminating. I have read many different posts on the forum about this but wanted to see if any one could clear it up for me. The consensus seems to be to complete the tinted lamination, then apply the decal as standard with resin above and below, but then but a small patch of glass over the top before hot coat. A few questions:
Will the edges of the small patch be visible in the clear hot coat, over the top of the tinted laminated glass? (I assume not but do not know)
Would it be a bad idea to laminate 1 layer of cloth with tinted resin, then apply decals, then apply the second layer of glass on deck?
Will the preferred method of installing decal under a small patch of glass cause any problems if I am going with a wet sand finish and no gloss coat?
My intention is to get the look like a lot of the new Lost boards have where they are tinted, by logos have white/colored backgrounds that are not covered by a tinted layer. Do you think they are using the same method?
Is this the look you’re going for? The white circles? If so this is most likely done the same way as panels. Laminate then brush on white resin on top of cured lamination similar to hotcoating but only the area desired. I’d use laminating resin for this so theres no sanding before adding your logo. Then add you logo and cloth patch over it.
Great, thank you. That’s what I was thinking but I wanted to be sure I wasn’t going to see the edges of the little fiberglass patch. I will that go that route! I see what you are saying about the color depth being poor on option 2.
These boards do have the look I was going for, but not quite in the way you are thinking. I am not looking for a white tint or opaque resin circle on the board. I am just referring to the white part of the Lost logo, inside of the letters. Also see the attached example. It looks like the answer above answers most of my questions as far as how to get a white logo over a tinted lam coat. Thanks for the response!
The lam/logos by Lost are silk screened white inside the letters with white ink at the silk screen shop. Unless you are quite the artist and can letter with white paint on the board exactly inside the letters of your silk screened lam/logo; You will not be able to duplicate the effect. Some guys on this site have had luck painting the back of their rice paper lam. I ordered lams a few years back and mistakenly said to the Screener; “black on white” . What I really wanted was a black logo on clear rice paper. So I wound up with a few hundred lam/logos with white background and black lettering. I was bummed at first, but have grown to like them. They really “pop” on painted and tinted boards. I used to use one layer of 4 oz. over my lam on a tinted board. Alot of glass shops do it that way. Back when I did my own sanding I would sometimes burn thru the 4 oz. What I do now is put my lam down on the tinted cloth with two layers of 4 oz. One just slightly larger than the lam and then the top layer two inches bigger than that. When you sand the top layer is the one that takes all the feathering and the bottom layer is protected. Glass shops don’t keep 2 oz around. Four ounce disappears. Once you hotcoat it; it’s gone. Lowel
thanks for the detail. Yeah, I was looking through the rest of the forum to find information on screen printing and having a white background. It seems like the only options are to go screen printed black on white like you are saying happened to you accidentally, or try printed lams with a self painted white background and see if that works. I had seen a few guys say that works, but you have to be careful.
I am trying to make some one time decals so I assume screen printing costs will be too high to justify going that route. Unless anyone knows of an online site or somewhere in San Diego that has cheap set up and screen printing options. DonP
