December 2004- Southern Californias Swell of the Century

What a freeking joke. Head high to slightly maybe 1.5 overhead at best. I load up my truck with my Rhino chasing gear, I’m thinking Big Swamis, The Cove, maybe Huge Sunset Cliffs… Instead I’m surfing with the rest of the longboarding crew in head high surf…When are we going to get shelled? It’s been 2 years.

El Nino…El Ninny, yea right.

-Jay

Jay… I think this mega high pressure system put the kabash on the mega swell, pushed and squished it out to sea… Warmwaters even on high tide has been going off for two weeks staight. Wednesday was almost epic.

It’s been good up here,but no mega swell…mega winds though…like 90mph here in the canyons where I live.I saw that the winds atop Mt.Laguna were 120+mph…or maybe it’s the dope? I need to go ly down,before I… falling down.Herb

I’m not…economically viable.

Yes I surfed Wed too, actually I’ve surfed every day for the past 4 months. Wed was good, Last friday was pretty good too, Dec the 6th was even better…but we still haven’t seen the "MEGA SWELL of SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 2004. as stated in the San Diego Union, “people please don’t turn your back on the ocean, it will steal your babies”. Whatever.

The better swells this year, haven’t been forcasted. But "THE MEGA SWELL OF 2004 " was totally hyped up. Just frusturated, and i better watch out for what i wish.

-JAy

wah wah wah!!!

Head high surf is head high surf. Have fun and be stoked that you’ve got waves.

Just be glad you’re not on the East Coast and dealing with the Mighty Lake Atlantic!!!

Nothing personal, just a little perspective. Catch one for me!!

East Coaster has a point ! Yeah surfed all week waiting for that freakin thing. Wednesday drove all the way to San Diego, but small longboarder heaven. So drove all the way back up to Huntington Beach and surfed some fun head high + surf . So much for the mother all swells for us. DR

Double overhead sets today. Triple yesterday. Mostly on the points and reefs. Not considered a mega swell around here, I guess. Too big for me for the most part. The big wave guys were on it yesterday. High pressure and blue water. Head north young man, head north. Mike

it was double over head plus at certain breaks the last two days! thats good enough for me today was amazing for me. Rooster (mike) is right head north.

As I stood at the front of the factory, looking down at Moonlight Beach below, the Pacific Ocean was very passive. Island blockage for that direction swell and very lined up, too clean for most beaches.

I drove from Huntington Beach to Blacks this Saturday Morn to get some

Double Overhead Swell,

By 7am, Blacks was head high with pluses, not shifty, no outside bombs, and well carpeted with surfers.

I then head to Sunset Cliffs, some Overhead waves but not enough,much on the starved side.

I check out Oceanside, and SaltCreek to get a firm read on the swell.

Oceanside Harbor HH maybe with pluses, SaltCreek mostly HH.

By noon, I 'm back at Huntington and its HH and Overhead (both) long hollow rights on

the Southside of the Pier…I’m getting tubed and catching some great rides.

Heard reliable reports later that Blacks was up to Double Overhead.

Welll!..the swell must have been playing peek a boo with me!

It could be worse- How about getting the first of the Hype last weekend, but ending up in the ER with a cracked Rib and a load of smashed Muscles and nerves in the left side of my back, after a warm up surf- This was 7 days ago and I still feel like S**T. Enjoy your head high surf- Being in the water beats looking at it on the computer+ there is one less guy in the water for a while !

South Side Seal Beach. Quite fun on the the minus tide. Not much else to say.

I’m sorry you guys are missing out…

Boo Hoo…

Friday AM Magnolia street in H.B… mostly walled with an occasional overhead wave and corner…got a couple good ones.

Saturday Rincon…a couple feet overhead on the sets, heavy and agressive crowd(typical) and going off mid morning with a slight offshore wind…high quality waves

Sunday early…1-2+ from Malibu to Santa Monica, but a stunningly beautiful morining…and being beckoned back to points north

Roger

Hey Paul - we had waves that big. Just not the 15 footers that some of the forecasts were calling for…

We had all that on Friday, but like Keith said, and I continue to bitch about. It was not the “SWELL OF THE CENTURY” it was just another winter swell of fair size. This is a pic of my beloved San Diego in the am. on Friday.

the only thing “mega” about this last swell was the crowds and numbers of less-than-skilled surfers cloggin’ things up and ruining good waves.

Well yesterday in Sydney, we had barely any swell (o.k. on a mal) so I would be loving some OH waves…

For someone to claim “Swell O’ the Century” would be a bit premature at this point anyway. It’s only 2004 after all. Wait until at least 2070 to start claiming.

It was pretty clear by Thursday that this swell wasn’t going to be anything particularly special. The SE Papa buoy had topped out at 19’, while in Christmas swell in December, 2000 it had topped out around 50’; California buoy was peaking at 13-14’ and in 2004 topped out at mid-30’s. In addition, the swell direction was better in the 2000 Christmas swell.