What a freeking joke. Head high to slightly maybe 1.5 overhead at best. I load up my truck with my Rhino chasing gear, I’m thinking Big Swamis, The Cove, maybe Huge Sunset Cliffs… Instead I’m surfing with the rest of the longboarding crew in head high surf…When are we going to get shelled? It’s been 2 years.
Jay… I think this mega high pressure system put the kabash on the mega swell, pushed and squished it out to sea… Warmwaters even on high tide has been going off for two weeks staight. Wednesday was almost epic.
It’s been good up here,but no mega swell…mega winds though…like 90mph here in the canyons where I live.I saw that the winds atop Mt.Laguna were 120+mph…or maybe it’s the dope? I need to go ly down,before I… falling down.Herb
Yes I surfed Wed too, actually I’ve surfed every day for the past 4 months. Wed was good, Last friday was pretty good too, Dec the 6th was even better…but we still haven’t seen the "MEGA SWELL of SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 2004. as stated in the San Diego Union, “people please don’t turn your back on the ocean, it will steal your babies”. Whatever.
The better swells this year, haven’t been forcasted. But "THE MEGA SWELL OF 2004 " was totally hyped up. Just frusturated, and i better watch out for what i wish.
East Coaster has a point ! Yeah surfed all week waiting for that freakin thing. Wednesday drove all the way to San Diego, but small longboarder heaven. So drove all the way back up to Huntington Beach and surfed some fun head high + surf . So much for the mother all swells for us. DR
Double overhead sets today. Triple yesterday. Mostly on the points and reefs. Not considered a mega swell around here, I guess. Too big for me for the most part. The big wave guys were on it yesterday. High pressure and blue water. Head north young man, head north. Mike
it was double over head plus at certain breaks the last two days! thats good enough for me today was amazing for me. Rooster (mike) is right head north.
As I stood at the front of the factory, looking down at Moonlight Beach below, the Pacific Ocean was very passive. Island blockage for that direction swell and very lined up, too clean for most beaches.
It could be worse- How about getting the first of the Hype last weekend, but ending up in the ER with a cracked Rib and a load of smashed Muscles and nerves in the left side of my back, after a warm up surf- This was 7 days ago and I still feel like S**T. Enjoy your head high surf- Being in the water beats looking at it on the computer+ there is one less guy in the water for a while !
Friday AM Magnolia street in H.B… mostly walled with an occasional overhead wave and corner…got a couple good ones.
Saturday Rincon…a couple feet overhead on the sets, heavy and agressive crowd(typical) and going off mid morning with a slight offshore wind…high quality waves
Sunday early…1-2+ from Malibu to Santa Monica, but a stunningly beautiful morining…and being beckoned back to points north
We had all that on Friday, but like Keith said, and I continue to bitch about. It was not the “SWELL OF THE CENTURY” it was just another winter swell of fair size. This is a pic of my beloved San Diego in the am. on Friday.
For someone to claim “Swell O’ the Century” would be a bit premature at this point anyway. It’s only 2004 after all. Wait until at least 2070 to start claiming.
It was pretty clear by Thursday that this swell wasn’t going to be anything particularly special. The SE Papa buoy had topped out at 19’, while in Christmas swell in December, 2000 it had topped out around 50’; California buoy was peaking at 13-14’ and in 2004 topped out at mid-30’s. In addition, the swell direction was better in the 2000 Christmas swell.