Deck of cut laps

I begun realizing today that I’ve got no idea on how to do the deck portion of a cut lap board.

After you wrap the laps up and cut them, how exactly do you do the deck area? Do you then do another cutlap matching up with the line from the wrap up?

Hi C

If you glassed the bottom first, cut, and let set…

Cut the reinforce patch to fit inside the lap. The outer layer, the whole glass job, should overlap the rails onto the bottom of the board, either taped off cutlap or freelapped, your choice, depending on colors involved.

Well it makes sense, but if you are doing resin tints with wrap ups on the rails, how would you wrap over the deck laps without screwing up your rail lap colors?

Sorry if this is a simple question that I missing the obvious answer to.

I’ve asked the same question, and from what I understand, is this:

  • Lam the bottom of the board doing cutlaps on the deck side. Let dry.

  • Flip the board over and cut the laps.

  • Tape off the deck at the laps.

  • Lay the first layer of cloth (the inlay) on the deck and lam with your colored resin.

  • Cut the lap when dry/gelled

  • Tape off bottom of board for cut laps and lay the second layer over the first, wrapping around the rails and overlapping the tape on the bottom of the board, and glassing it with clear resin…

At least that’s how I understand it! Good luck! I’m actually waiting for my first bottom lam to dry right now on a test chunk of board and then I’ll be doing that exact same thing in about 20 minutes…


Save yourself a step and glass both layers of deck at the same time.

Lay the patch on first, cut to the bottom lap that is up to the deck.

Lay the whole deck on, either freelap it, or if you go cutlap, have the bottom already taped off, one inch in from the peak of the rail.

You didn’t mention what color tints you are using. When tinting a whole board, top and bottom, the rails are always a darker color, because it’s TWO layers of cloth colored.

So you can’t really have different colored deck and bottom, unless you go with lighter shades of the same color.


Using the description you gsve, wouldn’t that leave the bottom of the board a light tint, the rails a little dardker, and then the top probably the same as the rails if you’re lucky and do a super clean job…???


When you go for a full board tint, you don’t need to mix the colors exactly the same for top and bottom, and also for extra 3rd layer knee patches. But if you do, and you use a easy to use color, like yellow, you would get great, even results.

If you choose purple tints, you’d get a conglomerate mess of darks, lighter, white spots (sand thrus), and fuzzes.

So I always tint full boards with easy colors.

No one has yet to mention actual color of the tints.

Well…The one I’m doing now is light pink. It’s for my daughter. The color seemed to go on real good and even. We’ll see how it looks after the hotcoat though.


So the areas of two layers of glass always comes out slightly darker than single layers of glass, and match the rails.

Some of us used to add two more layers on the bottom tail, where the finboxes or fins would be, and that shows thru also.

I liked the butterfly shaped deck patches, so the rails are reinforced, but as much as possible is cut away…it shows thru also.

Pink is tough to get even and smooth. Hope yours turns out better than some I’'ve done.

I have to disagree. You can get a board the same color without making the rails darker. Doing both layers of the top glass at the same time is more efficient, but doing an inlay will give you the same color as long as you pre-mixed enough resin. Use regular E glass to cover and do your free laps and it will not be darker. Using volan however will cause darker rails. Now you may say that layer of glass that overlaps the inlay and wraps the rails will show it darker. It could make it a hint darker but not nearly as drastic as laminating with color. Austin S.