Del Mar Sucks

I keep telling myself I’m never coming back, but it’s so pretty, never crowded and close to my office so I get tempted and it SUCKS 9/10 times.  

If there’s any inkling of size, you get in the water paddle through hills and valleys of chop, and 20-30 duckdives later you’re approx 1/4 mile south from where you started.  AND the waves either fake you out, like they wall up, real shadowy like and then fizzle, OR they pitch really steep right as you get up.  You can knife the hell out of wave to avoid it but some of my most brutal, dark, scary, painful, hold-down wipeouts have been between 8th and 11th st. 

This time I mean it, I’m NOT going back.  In fact, as a hedge against error, I told my wife before I go out say, “You’re not going to Del Mar are you?”…because she sure as sh’ doesn’t want to hear this same ol’ tired rant again.

anyway…

15th and Torrey Pines???

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I’ve always gone north of Torrey Pines at the Streets/cliffs and occasioinally Del Mar Shores at the bottom of the stairs.  I feel like when I first went to these spots they were ripping, but now I just get frustrated and bitchy every time.

Maybe your just hesitating…

  ‘‘He, who hesitates, is lost!’’      Just as true in small waves, as it is in large waves.