Delam spots during glassing

I need some help. Ive made over 50 boards. Some good, some well…. Ive never had a delam problem with glassing until my last two boards. I glassed a board today and the bottom went fine, but the top delamed immediately. I had a few spots, not as bad, on my last board. I didn’t know why so I bought a new compressor, cleaned everything well, made sure there was no dust on the blank, and made sure the temp inside and outside were pretty close. I thought it might be the dark color but the bottom is fine. I thought it might be the two layers of glass, but on the last one it was the bottom. Ive done a few epoxy boards but the vast majority have been poly always with UV cure resin. Any ideas? Im pretty discouraged! Thanks for any help

Had the same kind of problem with my last two boards but with a lot of very small bubbles…
I had to really work with the resin a lot to get a decent result (there’s still plenty of small bubbles in my glass tho)

Turns out that my compressor was probably sending out water and/or oil when i cleaned the foam and the fiberglass

It’s frustrating how every single small detail can lead to a disaster :melting_face:

Did you use any catalyst in with the UV resin? Ive had a total delam disaster when using an opaque green tint and UV poly resin, forgot to add any MEKP ( I usually add a little ~0.5% just to ensure total cure) The UV couldnt penetrate the Tinted resin (tinted at 2%) and the glass only cured on top, and not to the foam so the sheet basically peeled away.
Lesson learnt was UV resin and Opaque arent a great match, but also Dont forget the MEKP catalyst, even just a bit.

Thanks for the replies. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t the compressor, I used two different ones and there was no problem with the bottom lam. I didn’t use catalyst, but I also didn’t use any tint in the resin. I had painted the blank with a thinned acrylic. At this point I think that the dark paint absorbed too much heat and it expanded. I’m guessing the bottom didn’t delam since the heat was able to escape from the bottom? I don’t know. My next board will be all white and I’m thinking of not leaving it in the sun to heat up, but instead take it in and out for 30 second increments to cure without getting the core too hot?

If using epoxy resin, work it slowly and let it soak in. Let the resin do the work. Then pull the resin out. Maybe your used to lam resin and working it harder?

leave us ignorant consider out gassing,
any little conspicuous holes in the foam?
shaping agressivly into the core foam on the deck
revealing the subsurface,agressive compressor
pore cleanout micrscopicly increasing the acreage of the resin hungry surface? my personal favorite step is a laminating coat
surface preperation of the deck AKA -filler coat yes add ctalyst and
follow with a thin hot coat then scratch sand to true up the surface to 100 grit perfection ,no shinies… then the delicate yellow squeegie romanic ballroom dance in mental tuxedo and ballgown,no disco no bitches brew no bartoc all violins
walk the long strokes from center out then final long line walks from half way to tail and then from half way rail to nose on the opposie quarter and repeat opposite quarters
wait 30 seconds and look for outgassing symptoms areas of lifting glass. what kinda blank could be a concern.produchtion glassing has played a big part in the establishment of technique.skimping on resin and slow kick of resin was not on the dance card when the resin had too much time to soak into the pores although the fill coat could fix that after
the glass lam had gone off sometimes called a double hot coat.
ah yes I do ramble… ambrose…
a good glass job is heavier and lasts credibly longer.
incredible glass jobs are for the landfill surf contest.
incredible means not credible.