This may have been linked here elsewhere, I think I got it from Dale Solomonson
http://tubeguide.tv/derek-hynd-finless-jbay/801/
Anybody know dimensions on this board? Inquiring minds…
THAT is one of the most beautiful, and impressive rides I’ve seen in quite some time. The dimensions would be interesting to know, as well as the rocker.
i agree with Bill, the ride is truly impressive. pure trim.
i was about to ask if anybody had info on this board as well.
i’ve got some pics of one of his finless boards that i’ll try to upload
tomorrow. i’m not sure if it’s the same one he’s riding here.
Check Musica Surfica thread I just posted link to movie preview. Not as impressive as this clip as it was earlier in the evolution but absolutely beautiful!
That’s brilliant. That bloke is an awesome surfer. Love the 360’s
here’s the photos that i was talking about. these were scanned out of the lates issue of “The Surfer’s Path”.
it’s becoming my favorite surf mag for a bunch of reasons. the articles are actually informative and thought
provoking, it’s a very “green” mag, and there’s always in depth design and construction stuff. this particular
issue has 24 pages on wooden surfcraft from some of the usual suspects to other people that i’ve never read
of before to our very own Paul Jensen. i highly recommend anyone to check it out…
anyways, these photos are from a trip to King Island. all used without permission. i believe that all of these
are on finless board(s).
this first one is a sequence of Derek sliding a 360 on an over head beachbreak wave…
this next one is of Derek pulling in…
this next one is a shot of Derek walking with one of his finless boards…
this next one i tried to define the tail line on this board with my limited (read: kindergarten) computer
skills…
this one i tried another feature of the paint program to try and show the board better… hope these
help and dont’ confuse even more… sorry for my lacking computer skills…
and, lastly, here’s some info on the boards he was using and how they are designed…
so, assuming the description in the article is of the board that Derek is carrying in that shot,
for long right point breaks, he has a sharp pin-tail/fish-tail for the inside rail but for the outside
rail, he has something in the middle of fish and square tail… also, it looks like the center concave
is symetrical in regards to left and right but that the channel on the inside rail comes further up
towards the nose whereas the channel on the outside rail only comes up to just past where fins
would go…
as far as width, assuming it’s the same board that he’s riding in the j-bay sequence (which might
be a fair assumption being that this board was shaped for fast right hand points) it looks pretty wide…
judjing from how it looks under his arm maybe around 20" or more?
whaddayathink?
oh, one more observation…
in the sequence shot, it’s hard to tell from the scanned image but when looking at the mag,
Derek’s feet are not in the typical surf stance. it’s between a surf stance and a ski stance. his
front foot is well forward of center and to the left of the stringer. his back foot is at about
center maybe a little aft and it’s way over on the right rail to where his toes are actually
wrapping over with the curve in the rail. if that makes sense… if you were to draw a line from
one heel to the other, it would cross the stringer at maybe a 45 degree angle…
Really low center of gravity, weight applied off and on from the channels.
I have found that the back foot is off center; holding the inside rail into the wave face.
No assuming any real skills compared to Mr. Hynd (only going finless for a few months).
But man is it fun!
I have been experimenting with a 7’ footer with channels and ridges for some time and after seeing this
picture of his board I have been attempting to copy those channels on mine.
I just re-laminated those channels today and will try and get some pics up soon.
PS Sorry about not seeing this thread before posting in the Musica Surfica thread…
PPS Thanks to Mr. Hynd for the inspiring and compelling surfing and Mr. Davey and Surfers Path for putting those pics in their mag.
Great stuff. Hynd is a madman for sure! I just gave up on wood/alaia for the time being before getting there as just too hooked on the finless idea and have some experiments in mind. Starting w/ narrow like alaia for edge control and bodyboard type rails for hold also shallow concave (1/8") back 1/2 to 2/3. Not sure if this applies (and don’t have where I got it except from someone doing experiments w/ trad alaia but:
Quote:
The hard edge allows for bite when you hold the inside edge in, this is helped by making the board fairly narrow (15-16 inches max). When you combine it with a rolled bottom the effect is holding in, even in the pocket of a fairly steep wave, but still an element of controlled side-slip (known by the ancient Hawaiians as Lala). This is where the narrowness comes in, on a wide board the heel to toe movement is too difficult to make the quick changes needed.I've also found that under the back foot, the concave and the roll has the effect of creating two "bumps" or smaller rolls, which give the tail stability in the pocket, and a level of control for breaking out of trim and side-slipping.
I’m thinking more snowboard like though significant paddling sacrifice when that narrow in foam so can’t duck dive to compensate like solid wood alaia. Would be great if we could get some direct input from Hynd…
Derek Hynd is a genius and that wave belongs to Musica Surfica. It is actaully one of the best rides of the film.
Niegà
Derek is one of the rare people getting any media coverage at all who has a unique style and is willing to experiment. Combination of personal brilliance and not being hamstrung by demands of competition circuit I guess. Blessings and more power to him!
Cheers to that!!