I am a middle-aged 6’-3" 260# Great Lakes beginner who needs a bigger/better board to go with my bad self. I read Sway’s and mess with boards as a diversion from the everyday here in the Midwest. I hope to go ‘coastal’ ,once again, in a couple of years.
I am fixing to get a 12’ x 2’ x 4’ block of 1.5# EPS that will keep me in foam for the next 5 projects.
I messed with BoardCAD and a new feature on the latest rev is an easier DXF export of the stringer and cross sections. So I made myself a little full-sized study model out of scrap plywood. Enclosed are some pics/specs.
Questions:
Is a ‘piggier’ design better than WP forward or center for a beginner? Mine is basically WP just behind center.
Does my foam look to be about in the right place(s) for my ‘beached whale’ application?
I’m no expert, just a hobbyist, but I would eliminate that big flat spot in the middle, let your rocker form a more graduated curve. On a wide little board, like a fish or small Simmons type board I think you can get away with flat rocker, but I wouldn’t on such a big board.
My .02 - I’ve never been a very good longboarder but I’m 60 years old and started when I was 12 on longboards… that’s all that were available. With a board that long, consider the length of the engaged rail line while riding. Be moving the wide point aft and widening the tail, you can support more weight at the tail end of the board. That’s where you’ll likely be riding much of the time. With a bit of added tail rocker (I’d go at least 4") and some belly throughout the bottom, you will allow easier turning. I’d also go 16"-17" wide at the tail end 12" from the end and closer to 19" at the nose.
Do yourself a favor and skip the hollow wood idea. Skip the EPS block too. US Blanks has some molded PU longboard blanks that will come practically pre-shaped compared to what you’re describing. Once you hotwire a profile from your block of EPS, outline a blank, and finally face the ‘opportunity’ to crown the deck and taper the rails, you’ll appreciate what I’m trying to tell you.
Here’s one that won’t net the thickness of your original design but with the additional tail width suggested, shouldn’t be an issue…
Hey John I don’t think he’s going with a hollow wood board, just looks that way cuz he’s modeling at full size by means of stringer and ribs to show the cross sections. That’s what I got out of his original post anyway. IMO a guy that thorough and meticulous should do fine with the block (tho i’ve never tried it) - I didn’t think this was his 1st board either, maybe I missed something.
I don’t like it. Why not more traditional? Better use some time tested. Maybe like this outline…just saying. Or maybe you say…“Hey Resinhead…piss off”, I don’t like pintails. Ok…but anyhoo you need a bit more parallel lines and pull the mid point back, you need to turn and not so gunny…And you don’t need 24". go 23: max at the wide point.
also you need a smoother rocker, lose the nose flip…you board is way too flat in the middle…fill out the nose better too. I;ll think of more too, this enough for you to ponder.
The plywood gizmo is just a visual aid that I made out of scrap plywood, just to see if I could
. I’ve done a few EPS boards and 1 hollow wood Blake. The last foam one, 7’-11" x 23" x 3 5/16" seems small and tippy. It also has the WP near the midpoint and a curvy outline, just like…uh-oh…
I struggle with the PU blank versus raw EPS thing. I have never shaped a real PU blank because the blank plus shipping is more than 5 blanks’ worth of raw EPS foam. On the other hand, there’s probably a different set of lessons to be learned applying a decent template to a close tolerance blank.
I really appreciate the design input, thanks. #1 is a more natural, filled-in rocker, #2 is outline in general.
Would an outline like Resinhead’s help with the whole tippy feeling? Anything else?
If you were closer to the sorce(West Coast) you would really benefit from one of Millenium’s longboard blanks. They have several that would be a good starting point. Also a couple of 9’ gun blanks that would make a nice reeely long short board. Download their catalog. Lowel
go to one of the blank catalogs and check out the rocker on their big ones. you will see a smooth continuous rocker with more rocker in the nose than you show here. rocker is directly proportional to the length, so you and easily scale it up. keep us posted on your progress.
I think added value can be had by posting a side shot of yourself to let the knowledgeable guys develop a custom design for you. For example, if you have a big belly, 23 inches width maybe too narrow and the board will be tippy when you prone paddle. 24 inches wide would be better and 25 -26 inches even better. If all your weight is in your rear, thighs and lower body you should have a wider squarer tail. At 260 lbs you can make a door work once you are on a wave. BUT if your board design doesn’t take into account your body shape you won’t catch waves. Extra width on the tail lets you get that little bit of planning when paddling for the wave and getting that downhill feel as you catch the wave. Without it, your whole surfing experience might be very frustrating as you miss wave after wave. Building boards for big guys is an art in itself you might want to poke around on Joe Blair’s site for some ideas. Be warned though, he or someone that works for him seems to be online all the time and will want to chat with you, he is a friendly person.
Get the big foam block, make your board but cosider some of the suggestions (e.g. rocker) and hack away. Sounds like a great project. 1.5 pound EPS foam will need a bit of additional glassing. Post photos.
Hey Matty, if you’re still tuned in…I remember that perfect 10-6 comment from the catalog.
Are you thinking more spoon or more pig? Centered on the blank or starting near the nose or tail?
Right about now, I am wishing I was out the West Coast way: buying blanks, talking story, tracing templates, and even a little time in the water…
Resinhead’s pintail design…starting to grow on me too. It looks about like a Blending Curves 9’6", and with a 5% bump it fills in the 10-2BX and meets up with John Mellor’s nose and tail dims.
I appreciate everyone’s input. I am hoping this one ends up more functional and less turdy. -J
On a lovely spring day, in the company of my son who inspired the first boardmaking project, a journey of 160 miles was made to pick up a 25" x 48" x 144" chunka-lunka of 1.5 PCF EPS. The factory was awesome, old-school industrial feel with the smell of hot wired foam in the air and pole sheds filled with hundreds of billets. We rounded out the trip with stops at music stores, authentic Mexican food, and coffee on a hillside patio overlooking the river valley.
Picture enclosed. The paper-doll templates on the foam are the raw rockers from the 10-2BX and the 11-3D by US Blanks.
