Sorry, i just can’t get myself to idolize an undereducated, loud, federal > fugitive, just cause he surfed ‘ok’ back in the early sixties. Besides > humiliating people by pushing them off their boards at the ‘Bu’(a > liability nowadays). I’m not impressed, and I imagine if you were shoved > suddenly off of your board from behind (a dora tactic)this weekend, you > would be either highly pissed or calling a lawyer. Idols should be role > models not punks. Just one man’s opinion. Oh by the way, ‘we’ have surfed > long and still uncompromisingly well, and don’t drop in on people or write > bad checks. Now Lance…or Dewey…or Nuuhiwa… those guys I’ll > always remember. Did you say call your lawyer…please
DORA, HYNSON,WEBER, CARSON, and DAVID wel these guys paid their dues and deserve respect (not idol worship) and if nothing else each and every one of them has a given life to many of others with the simple lifestyle that says its O.K. to follow your dream and be your own man---- Hey , these guys may have paid their dues , but some have not paid their bills. Net 30 past due.
“Sorry, i just can’t get myself to idolize an undereducated, loud, federal fugitive, just cause he surfed ‘ok’ back in the early sixties. Besides humiliating people by pushing them off their boards at the ‘Bu’(a liability nowadays). I’m not impressed, and I imagine if you were shoved suddenly off of your board from behind (a dora tactic)this weekend, you would be either highly pissed or calling a lawyer. Idols should be role models not punks…” SURFHUNGRY, Any interested person can observe and learn from the good things (there are many) of the best surfers, reject the bad and NEVER idolize anyone… were all no more than imperfect humans anyway. Loud? Well, it seems to me that most surfers are just that way much of the time. Surfing aint golf. Its unfortunate to make someones lack of education a basis for personal criticism… formal, higher education has infrequently played a deciding role in the course of surfings most well-known names, unless it was in spite of such. Beyond whatever degree of knowledge they possessed, I discovered early on that the surfers I looked up to the most, had some sort of intuitive 6th sense as the basis of their skills, both on a wave and in the shaping room... if not also on the beach with the girls. In his prime, Mikis peers generally considered him to be the finest surfer in the world. To remove him from that historical context for criticism`s sake, is meaningless. I believe history will show that individuals like Miki, with all their flaws, give us far more than they ever take. Dale
I think that surfing unlike other sports, where participants learn great > amount about it’s history. Surfers are mainly young, cool, living for > today, if you aren’t Matt Biolas or Corey Lopes, you don’t exist. On the > other hand, Diff was more notible to those who grew up in the 50’s-80’s > and was recognized for his shaping ablity. He was an accomplished surfer, > often miffed about being cropped out of the famous Yokohama, Phil edwards > shot. Diff wasn’t a wealthy guy and shaped for a living until he became > unable. I was a lucky enough to have been able know Diff and for him to be > confident in me to finish shape some of his balsa boards over the years. > Diff is still alive, but clings to life in Kahuku hospital. Sorry to hear Diff is not doing good and is in Kahuku hospital. Diff lived in Hanalei during the eary to mid 70’s and I got to know him pretty well. As everyone knows this was the time for short board surfing. Well things could get pretty boring here when the waves were small so we would try to find an old longboard to surf. A friend of mine decided he wanted a new longboard so he went to Diff for the shape. There were no longboard templates to be had so Diff had to shape it from memory. It was a great board , loose but stable, good nose rider,just an all around great board. After that more and more new longboards started showing up at the beach. I used to borrow it when ever I could( it was in high demand)and would have a really fun session. Those of us that know Diff from those days, give him credit for shaping the first modern longboard on the north shore of Kauai. Here’s to you Diff,you crazy Dutch man,we’ll never forget you.
Did you say call your lawyer…please What is the difference, Dewey drank to death, not much of a role model, David serving time for multiple DUI’s, me, poster child for child support, one day I hope to be the man Christ expects us to be, but for now, like the rest of us, we’re only human. Are we not supposed to forgive, but forgiveness has to be asked for. Jim the human
What is the difference, Dewey drank to death, not much of a role model, > David serving time for multiple DUI’s, me, poster child for child support, > one day I hope to be the man Christ expects us to be, but for now, like > the rest of us, we’re only human. Are we not supposed to forgive, but > forgiveness has to be asked for. Jim the human Well said Jim. Another human master shaper that succumbed to drink was Wayne Land.He was a true master and went way back with Diff.I would like to see more stuff on him.He helped me get started way back when and was the main guy shaping Dora’s Cat model at Greg Noll’s factory.
What is the difference, Dewey drank to death, not much of a role model, > David serving time for multiple DUI’s, me, poster child for child support, > one day I hope to be the man Christ expects us to be, but for now, like > the rest of us, we’re only human. Are we not supposed to forgive, but > forgiveness has to be asked for. Jim the human wellput Jim, as I said before “we all have some type of dark past” (won’t even mention mine) but this is about respecting ones contribution to the sport and industry we love—I doubt if any surfers now or in the future will be sitting around talking in awe of the contibution of so & so sqeaky clean law firm(and types) to this industry, but just like Diffenderfer your legacy grows with each board you shape and not only is it respected now but I can’t help but think for many years to come!
GEEZ, Maybe I should have brought up Mike Purpus instead! Sorry guys, rattling cages to generate passion must be my calling. But I’m still vague on the Miki Dora contribution to surfing… besides the biggest cock in the(Malibu)henhouse status, maybe Tubesteak can staighten my a-s out(another blowhard). Interesting how different people react to opinion, or pick out pieces of written word and rationalize to suit their mindset(Bible verses come to mind). I’ve surfed all my life(very well). Self promotion has been the worst part of this industry. Contest surfers,local pecking orders, shortboarders against longboarders… glorifying guys that are dicks just isn’t the way your daddy wanted it…ohhhhhh sh-t it’s on now!!! Blood pressures are rising.
GEEZ, Maybe I should have brought up Mike Purpus instead! Sorry guys, > rattling cages to generate passion must be my calling. But I’m still vague > on the Miki Dora contribution to surfing… besides the biggest cock in > the(Malibu)henhouse status, maybe Tubesteak can staighten my a-s > out(another blowhard). Interesting how different people react to opinion, > or pick out pieces of written word and rationalize to suit their > mindset(Bible verses come to mind). I’ve surfed all my life(very well). > Self promotion has been the worst part of this industry. Contest > surfers,local pecking orders, shortboarders against longboarders… > glorifying guys that are dicks just isn’t the way your daddy wanted > it…ohhhhhh sh-t it’s on now!!! Blood pressures are rising. This isn’t to say that Dora was a saint or a hero to be worshiped, to say he was colorful is an understatement but the bottom line is he drew really clean lines on the canvas with which he worked (Malibu) and as a young grom in the sixties I personally enjoyed watching him surf—I didn’t care about his charactor or banking account all I knew and cared about was good clean surfing and Dora, Edwards, Carson,Hynson,Hamilton–these were the guys who got me excited about surfing and I know many others felt the same way, so what did they contribute to surfing —well if nothing else they taught me the meaning of style and I am sure I’m not alone By the way wasn’t this all about Diffenderfer in the first place?
This isn’t to say that Dora was a saint or a hero to be worshiped, to say > he was colorful is an understatement but the bottom line is he drew really > clean lines on the canvas with which he worked (Malibu) and as a young > grom in the sixties I personally enjoyed watching him surf—I didn’t care > about his charactor or banking account all I knew and cared about was good > clean surfing and Dora, Edwards, Carson,Hynson,Hamilton–these were the > guys who got me excited about surfing and I know many others felt the same > way, so what did they contribute to surfing —well if nothing else they > taught me the meaning of style and I am sure I’m not alone By the way > wasn’t this all about Diffenderfer in the first place? Dora was a little of everything,but if you got to spend any quality time with himyou’d discover he could be a true gentleman.
This isn’t to say that Dora was a saint or a hero to be worshiped, to say > he was colorful is an understatement but the bottom line is he drew really > clean lines on the canvas with which he worked (Malibu) and as a young > grom in the sixties I personally enjoyed watching him surf—I didn’t care > about his charactor or banking account all I knew and cared about was good > clean surfing and Dora, Edwards, Carson,Hynson,Hamilton–these were the > guys who got me excited about surfing and I know many others felt the same > way, so what did they contribute to surfing —well if nothing else they > taught me the meaning of style and I am sure I’m not alone By the way > wasn’t this all about Diffenderfer in the first place? Hey cdb I have a Diff shape in my shop that I am repairing,it was a custom that he did in Hawaii around ten years ago.Both of us are shapers but there is just something about this board that really makes me take notice…the thing just flows perfectly.It’s the subtle little things that separate a good shaper from a master.
GEEZ, Maybe I should have brought up Mike Purpus instead! Sorry guys, > rattling cages to generate passion must be my calling. But I’m still vague > on the Miki Dora contribution to surfing… besides the biggest cock in > the(Malibu)henhouse status, maybe Tubesteak can staighten my a-s > out(another blowhard). Interesting how different people react to opinion, > or pick out pieces of written word and rationalize to suit their > mindset(Bible verses come to mind). I’ve surfed all my life(very well). > Self promotion has been the worst part of this industry. Contest > surfers,local pecking orders, shortboarders against longboarders… > glorifying guys that are dicks just isn’t the way your daddy wanted > it…ohhhhhh sh-t it’s on now!!! Blood pressures are rising. SURFHUNGRY, Nahh… it
s all good, brah! What blood pressures? Chill out with a copy of the latest issue of The Surfers Journal: The Cat’s Ninth Life… On Visiting Miki Dora Near the End… by Steve Pezman “Is he really gone? Was he ever really here? While Dora was alive, the surfing world was granted depth, marked with a texture that only the Savage Minstrel could provide. Existential, Malthusian, dark, and caustic, Dora so skillfully blew apart the grotesque cliché of the vapid, artless, blue-eyed surfer archetype that we should probably all tithe to his estate out of sheer gratitude. Dora brought a literate and skeptical intelligence to the scene, and that may well prove his most lasting gift—more so, even, than his amazing style and knowledge of flow. Publisher Pez spent time with Miki during his last days, and totals his impressions here.” http://www.surfersjournal.com/html/current_issue.htm
GEEZ, Maybe I should have brought up Mike Purpus instead! Sorry guys, > rattling cages to generate passion must be my calling. But I’m still vague > on the Miki Dora contribution to surfing… besides the biggest cock in > the(Malibu)henhouse status, maybe Tubesteak can staighten my a-s > out(another blowhard). Interesting how different people react to opinion, > or pick out pieces of written word and rationalize to suit their > mindset(Bible verses come to mind). I’ve surfed all my life(very well). > Self promotion has been the worst part of this industry. Contest > surfers,local pecking orders, shortboarders against longboarders… > glorifying guys that are dicks just isn’t the way your daddy wanted > it…ohhhhhh sh-t it’s on now!!! Blood pressures are rising. don’t even mention Purpus,theres theres a real work of art.(WHAT A DICK) Mark http://www.scottsurfdesigns.com
This isn’t to say that Dora was a saint or a hero to be worshiped, to say > he was colorful is an understatement but the bottom line is he drew really > clean lines on the canvas with which he worked (Malibu) and as a young > grom in the sixties I personally enjoyed watching him surf—I didn’t care > about his charactor or banking account all I knew and cared about was good > clean surfing and Dora, Edwards, Carson,Hynson,Hamilton–these were the > guys who got me excited about surfing and I know many others felt the same > way, so what did they contribute to surfing —well if nothing else they > taught me the meaning of style and I am sure I’m not alone By the way > wasn’t this all about Diffenderfer in the first place? Yea, it was about Diff(a positive,wonderful,character,or so it seemed anyway), but I was feeling kinda controversial about people being glorifed in the surfing world who really if put in any other setting amount to nothing . Now, I am definately not perfect(or a lawyer)and respect admirable people, but I’m not hurting ether. What I really wanted to emphasize is not so much that Dora was a glorified loser, but, I’d ‘rather’ promote, compliment, support, hard working, positive, non-sinister people who weren’t just photo whores back in the day. Most/some of those 60’s/70’s superstars have burned me on waves throughout my surfing past and i’ve had the pleasure of watching them ‘rot’ away during the past 30-35 years(pay backs a bit@h right?). The 70’s were the worst for brain damaging some of these surf rock stars… The Post-Viet Nam LSD fallout longboarders clogging the lineups now are romantising about people from the past who did not progress in normal society (huh,what did he say??? You know… school, career,wife,home owner,kids,physical fitness,sobriety. As a hard core surfer(lifelong fully involved wave rider/shaper) I am sick of the phony hype. Media promotes whoever is kissing their ass, skilled or not, some of the pro female longboarders are really a joke(the truth hurts don’t it). To me, respect(from society) will always go to you positive hard working individuals and entrepreneurs who are their own man, if you are feeling me great, if not, well go cry to your lame longboard club morning kook gathering… No offense to people that can actually surf for sh@t on this board(Clay,Jim,others,etc.). Hey this is like one of those 70’s encounter groups they made us take in the 70’s. Have at it… Promote Role Models not Hype. You want 17 year old longboarders pushing you off your board or dropping in on you cause da’ cat did it,it was cool, and he was da’ man 40 years ago? Not… Wow, you sat in the pit at the Bu’ with the boys back in the day without getting verbally demoralized??? Whatever. My memories of surfing, some good some bad, are on-going (so far anyway) so if you can tap into my viewpoints(hopefully entertaining) i’ll just add another flavor that’s all…don’t expect any b.s. Good day now.
SURFHUNGRY,>>> Nahh… it
s all good, brah! What blood pressures? Chill out with a copy > of the latest issue of The Surfers Journal:>>> The Cats Ninth Life… On Visiting Miki Dora Near the End… by Steve > Pezman>>> “Is he really gone? Was he ever really here? While Dora was alive, > the surfing world was granted depth, marked with a texture that only the > Savage Minstrel could provide. Existential, Malthusian, dark, and caustic, > Dora so skillfully blew apart the grotesque cliché of the vapid, artless, > blue-eyed surfer archetype that we should probably all tithe to his estate > out of sheer gratitude. Dora brought a literate and skeptical intelligence > to the scene, and that may well prove his most lasting giftmore so, even, > than his amazing style and knowledge of flow. Publisher Pez spent time > with Miki during his last days, and totals his impressions here.”>>> http://www.surfersjournal.com/html/current_issue.htm Having read Pezman’s article last night, I’d have to say it was a brilliant piece. It’s also pure journalism, an account of an uncomfortable situation, and probably the most “real” thing I’ve ever seen in a surf publication. I personally detest any form of localism, and I guess as a figure Dora would appear to be the poster boy. I also detest the media-fostered notion of the “free ride” in surfing; I believe I’ve mentioned here my dismay at finding out how many people were running drugs to support international lifestyles while magazines were pumping “work hard, save your money, and cut loose”. I don’t give a hoot in hell if people run drugs or take them - that’s a personal thing - but it pisses me off if those who do are allowed a false public impression just because they surf well or are a source…that illusion takes innocent people down. While it wasn’t drugs, the crime thing Dora was involved with I also don’t like. “To be outside the law, one must be honest” I think is what Bob Dylan once wrote. Dora paid that price in time served, which I would think would be the hardest thing of all to him. As a surfer, however, all you have to do is look at photos of the man. Focused, innovative, mastery…pictures of him from the 60’s show a surfer as good as anybody on similar equipment today. I think he’s been unfairly slighted in recent years just because he wasn’t in his 20’s, you know? Too bad we couldn’t have had a super session at good 4 foot Malibu with a 60 year old Dora, Tudor, Fain, Carson,and some other current longboard champs… Dora as a public figure seemed to ask that he be viewed for riding waves only, and the rest be left alone. Outside of the water he chose to live a life that showed no quarter to either himself or the world. That’s a pretty lonesome choice. But in the water he was one of the best of us, and that’s worth his legend status. Nels
The Post-Viet Nam LSD fallout longboarders clogging the lineups now are romantising about people from the past who did not progress in normal society (huh,what did he say??? You know… school, career,wife,home owner,kids,physical fitness,sobriety. As a hard core surfer(lifelong fully involved wave rider/shaper) I am sick of the phony hype. Media promotes whoever is kissing their ass, skilled or not, some of the pro female longboarders are really a joke(the truth hurts don’t it). To me, respect(from society) will always go to you positive hard working individuals and entrepreneurs who are their own man, if you are feeling me great, if not, well go cry to your lame longboard club morning kook gathering… No offense to people that can actually surf for sh@t on this board One day, maybe , you , your wife, and kids might settle down and have fun in the water. Maybe even in a surf club that has women, and kid longboarders. Funny thing is , those pro female longboarders are having fun and able to make a some $ as well. I’ve never seen one of the Women pro’s push anybody off a wave. I have seen many instances where they could, or should have. It’s not that big of a deal anyway. Getting someone out of the way is , at times, is appropriate (go ahead and call the lawyer). As our funny Commander would say - “Good wholesome family values”. It could be said that your part of the clog as well. I agree with the media hype part. We see it in the Star promotion boards, the Joel’s , or Evos. Sell the image / drive that pony. There are lots of layers here, and I guess I’m one of the biggest kooks around. I even took acid once. Although I’m not a contest surfer who hangs around all weekend to surf for twenty minutes, I do like the gathering of families and friend who enjoy being normal. This was a great post , over 200 hits. Right on Surfhungry!
Yea, it was about Diff(a positive,wonderful,character,or so it seemed > anyway), but I was feeling kinda controversial about people being glorifed > in the surfing world who really if put in any other setting amount to > nothing . Now, I am definately not perfect(or a lawyer)and respect > admirable people, but I’m not hurting ether. What I really wanted to > emphasize is not so much that Dora was a glorified loser, but, I’d > ‘rather’ promote, compliment, support, hard working, positive, > non-sinister people who weren’t just photo whores back in the day. > Most/some of those 60’s/70’s superstars have burned me on waves throughout > my surfing past and i’ve had the pleasure of watching them ‘rot’ away > during the past 30-35 years(pay backs a bit@h right?). The 70’s were the > worst for brain damaging some of these surf rock stars… The > Post-Viet Nam LSD fallout longboarders clogging the lineups now are > romantising about people from the past who did not progress in normal > society (huh,what did he say??? You know… school, career,wife,home > owner,kids,physical fitness,sobriety. As a hard core surfer(lifelong fully > involved wave rider/shaper) I am sick of the phony hype. Media promotes > whoever is kissing their ass, skilled or not, some of the pro female > longboarders are really a joke(the truth hurts don’t it). To me, > respect(from society) will always go to you positive hard working > individuals and entrepreneurs who are their own man, if you are feeling me > great, if not, well go cry to your lame longboard club morning kook > gathering… No offense to people that can actually surf for sh@t on this > board(Clay,Jim,others,etc.). Hey this is like one of those 70’s encounter > groups they made us take in the 70’s. Have at it… Promote Role > Models not Hype. You want 17 year old longboarders pushing you off your > board or dropping in on you cause da’ cat did it,it was cool, and he was > da’ man 40 years ago? Not… Wow, you sat in the pit at the Bu’ with the > boys back in the day without getting verbally demoralized??? > Whatever. My memories of surfing, some good some bad, are on-going (so far > anyway) so if you can tap into my viewpoints(hopefully entertaining) i’ll > just add another flavor that’s all…don’t expect any b.s. Good > day now. Well said, promote the wholesome value of surfing, with family and friends. Mark http://www.scottsurfdesigns.com
Having read Pezman’s article last night, I’d have to say it was a > brilliant piece. It’s also pure journalism, an account of an uncomfortable > situation, and probably the most “real” thing I’ve ever seen in > a surf publication.>>> I personally detest any form of localism, and I guess as a figure Dora > would appear to be the poster boy. I also detest the media-fostered notion > of the “free ride” in surfing; I believe I’ve mentioned here my > dismay at finding out how many people were running drugs to support > international lifestyles while magazines were pumping “work hard, > save your money, and cut loose”. I don’t give a hoot in hell if > people run drugs or take them - that’s a personal thing - but it pisses me > off if those who do are allowed a false public impression just because > they surf well or are a source…that illusion takes innocent people down.>>> While it wasn’t drugs, the crime thing Dora was involved with I also don’t > like. “To be outside the law, one must be honest” I think is > what Bob Dylan once wrote. Dora paid that price in time served, which I > would think would be the hardest thing of all to him.>>> As a surfer, however, all you have to do is look at photos of the man. > Focused, innovative, mastery…pictures of him from the 60’s show a surfer > as good as anybody on similar equipment today. I think he’s been unfairly > slighted in recent years just because he wasn’t in his 20’s, you know? Too > bad we couldn’t have had a super session at good 4 foot Malibu with a 60 > year old Dora, Tudor, Fain, Carson,and some other current longboard > champs…>>> Dora as a public figure seemed to ask that he be viewed for riding waves > only, and the rest be left alone. Outside of the water he chose to live a > life that showed no quarter to either himself or the world. That’s a > pretty lonesome choice. But in the water he was one of the best of us, and > that’s worth his legend status.>>> Nels I usually let my surfing do the talking, but this subject evolved out of my disdain/dis-allusion with many years of surfing with false heroes not necessarily ‘Dora’ but many other local ex-smuggling self promoters who I’ve crossed paths with, some famous some washed up, how can a straight shooter survive?..by complaining oF course! Thanks for a well thought out rebuttle. You got class.
don’t even mention Purpus,theres theres a real work of art.(WHAT A DICK)>>> Mark SURFHUNGRY, Sounds like everything you “know” about Dora is from a magazine or third hand info. picked up in the “parking lot.” Just remember your idea of “values” does not apply to everyone.
SURFHUNGRY, Sounds like everything you “know” about Dora is from > a magazine or third hand info. picked up in the “parking lot.” > Just remember your idea of “values” does not apply to everyone. I KNOW THAT, That’s why there’s bleeding heart liberals. As anyone over 40 knows surfers were looked down on back in the day as ‘knarly dudes’. Not taken seriously(just by other wide-eyed grommits). I just shaped a longboard for a orthopedic surgeon(doesn’t dig golf i guess). It’s been a long time since surfing was counter culture(and i was there). Its an elite athletic art/sport to me and is still not treated as such in society(although getting slightly better). False hero’s only stifle a young man’s progress(because they were so cool). My kids think Christian Fletcher/Matt Archibald are the Kings(of crystal Meth)! Smuggling and Dealing on a large scale is something shoved under the table nowadays but sustained lifesyles then(sponsorship only goes so far), i resent those people praised for phony trivial media driven glory when really they were unloading bundles of thai sticks in Oceanside instead of motivating successful futures for wide-eyed groms by being ‘role-models’. Not just Dora dude it is ‘way’ bigger than that. The shortboard revolution changed many a lucrative career to a darker path which affected many folks. Sorry to bring back any bad menories to a few. I’ll get over it.