I KNOW THAT, That’s why there’s bleeding heart liberals. As anyone over 40 > knows surfers were looked down on back in the day as ‘knarly dudes’. Not > taken seriously(just by other wide-eyed grommits). I just shaped a > longboard for a orthopedic surgeon(doesn’t dig golf i guess). It’s been a > long time since surfing was counter culture(and i was there). Its an elite > athletic art/sport to me and is still not treated as such in > society(although getting slightly better). False hero’s only stifle a > young man’s progress(because they were so cool). My kids think Christian > Fletcher/Matt Archibald are the Kings(of crystal Meth)! Smuggling and > Dealing on a large scale is something shoved under the table nowadays but > sustained lifesyles then(sponsorship only goes so far), i resent those > people praised for phony trivial media driven glory when really they were > unloading bundles of thai sticks in Oceanside instead of motivating > successful futures for wide-eyed groms by being ‘role-models’. Not just > Dora dude it is ‘way’ bigger than that. The shortboard revolution changed > many a lucrative career to a darker path which affected many folks. Sorry > to bring back any bad menories to a few. I’ll get over it. SURFHUNGRY, Here
s a very interesting (and ironic) side note that I know youll appreciate: “The man who sired the radical/hippie/psychedelic/anti-establishment shortboard revolution is a conservative, non-drinking, drug-free soul who always reached his ends through a thoughtful combination of sought-after knowledge, experience and intuition. He has always had a firm grip the realization that the fastest way to get somewhere is often the longest road. He passed up everybody else in surfing nearly three decades ago, and did it in part by riding the same board for years…” (Excerpt from “George Greenough the Ageless Artist”, by Paul Gross, The Surfers Journal, Vol.3, No.1, Spring 1994). Ever wonder where surfing might be now, if so many talented people hadnt gotten so sidetracked and entangled in dubious peripheral activities? Dale
…that SURFHUNGRY is bitter about the surfing lifestyle and that Dale (as honorable and esteemed as he is 'round these parts) still loves quoting from a time warp that is so much gobbly gook. How many times can we land a man on the moon and have somebody keep trotting out self serving fictional manifestations (i.e. Paul Gross) of the moon shot. “Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex… It takes a touch of genius — and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction.” -A. Einstein
…that SURFHUNGRY is bitter about the surfing lifestyle and that Dale (as > honorable and esteemed as he is ‘round these parts) still loves quoting > from a time warp that is so much gobbly gook. How many times can we land a > man on the moon and have somebody keep trotting out self serving fictional > manifestations (i.e. Paul Gross) of the moon shot.>>> “Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex… It > takes a touch of genius — and a lot of courage to move in the opposite > direction.” -A. Einstein Surfboard Geek, Hmmm… why don
t you just call George and get it straight from the source? Hes definitely no fictional manifestation. Anyone whos spent much time speaking with George Greenough knows that hes a genius (in part) at regularly solving very complex problems by way of ridiculously simple solutions. Goobly gook? Time warp? Say what?? Ill admit that I often quote and refer to items of specific historical relevance, some transcend eras and are timeless in their function, some philosophical, and others are personal opinion. Ill even grant you that Im not a very good communicator, unlike Paul Gross, who has many years of excellent professional writing to his credit. So whats the problem? Your criticism is noted. We may be on separate planets, but we can still talk here, there, or perhaps not at all. The choice is yours. George Greenough, Country Code (61) 266-877090 Paul Gross, Dale Solomonson, 1(541)265-8176,
…that SURFHUNGRY is bitter about the surfing lifestyle and that Dale (as > honorable and esteemed as he is 'round these parts) still loves quoting > from a time warp that is so much gobbly gook. How many times can we land a > man on the moon and have somebody keep trotting out self serving fictional > manifestations (i.e. Paul Gross) of the moon shot.>>> “Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex… It > takes a touch of genius — and a lot of courage to move in the opposite > direction.” -A. Einstein Yep, attitude is so hard to harness in words when interpretation is so varied by others. I am bitter that true mentors are so hard to grasp onto… Catholic priests molesting kids, President cigar bangs his assistant, Surfshop owner(my childhood mentor) arrested for stealing AA batteries from Home Depot, Rich Chew major drug smuggler(just random few examples). What I’m trying to say is “we are on our own”. Teamwork is just a fantasy, trust has been re-defined, people have ‘evolved’ chemically instead of naturally, and the ten commandments no longer intimidate 18 year old meth abusers. Ha, if this doesn’t spur every emotion than your still waking up! How’s a guy going to ‘spread the love’ when 33 years of surfing is momentarily ‘shut down’ by an intentional ‘drop in’, or ‘stink eye’ from a punk local, or your ignored in a surf shop cause your hair isn’t spiked/bleached… Respect has left the building. Here we go…I guess it would be easier in life to stick our heads in a hole(ostrich) but there’s probably high levels of toxins in the the ground so it’s no longer appropriate. Hey man, just having fun with this, relax, and then post. bye now.
SurfHungry, Think you’ve got your names mixed up with the Rich Chew reference. You sure do have “the angry American white male” rant down though.
its good to be alive,eh? be glad you woke up this morning and were able to walk.its good to try to change things and try to turn people around but sometimes you just gotta shrug your shoulders, do what you feel is right and let others live with their own failings.it is easy to get discouraged, I know I often am, but all in all we are so fortunate. most of us get enough to eat(or too much),have running water and have the time to surf (and post on internet) we are lucky people.thanks for reading my rant
its good to be alive,eh? be glad you woke up this morning and were able to > walk.its good to try to change things and try to turn people around but > sometimes you just gotta shrug your shoulders, do what you feel is right > and let others live with their own failings.it is easy to get discouraged, > I know I often am, but all in all we are so fortunate. most of us get > enough to eat(or too much),have running water and have the time to surf > (and post on internet) we are lucky people.thanks for reading my rant SURFHUNGRY, If the truth were known, in one way or another, every last one of us would be disappointing as role models if held up to close scrutiny… Thankfully, we do have a choice to look beyond all that tangled, negative stuff, and see that there are still lots of good (not perfect) people in this world worthy of trust and respect. Not to make excuses, but, too many times the true value of integrity and faith aren
t discovered until later in life, when the weight of many yearspoor choices finally brings a person to their knees. Some of us just seem to learn everything the hard way… better late than never, eh? Steiny… yes, if only we all had your wise perspective! Dale
its good to be alive,eh? be glad you woke up this morning and were able to > walk.its good to try to change things and try to turn people around but > sometimes you just gotta shrug your shoulders, do what you feel is right > and let others live with their own failings.it is easy to get discouraged, > I know I often am, but all in all we are so fortunate. most of us get > enough to eat(or too much),have running water and have the time to surf > (and post on internet) we are lucky people.thanks for reading my rant Yes i definately agree with you, but I’m not ready to chill and settle for less yet(wave leftovers), even into my forties. Surfing is all out and every manuever taken to the max. Sounds angry I agree but you must admit our sport/art has it’s obstacles, for me they are pecking orders(which i don’t recognize), certain phony media idols(which i regularly outsurf), and kooks who don’t look back before they take off, and when you holler “got it” they look at you like your the a-hole for interupting their potential perling.
Yes i definately agree with you, but I’m not ready to chill and settle for > less yet(wave leftovers), even into my forties. Surfing is all out and > every manuever taken to the max. Sounds angry I agree but you must admit > our sport/art has it’s obstacles, for me they are pecking orders(which i > don’t recognize), certain phony media idols(which i regularly outsurf), > and kooks who don’t look back before they take off, and when you holler > “got it” they look at you like your the a-hole for interupting > their potential perling. yeeeaaah. your surfing (sounds more like pro wrestling) is “all out” and scoring every maneuver “to the max”. thats sooo not true. How do you spell FANTASY WORLD. you probably ride beachbreaks and imagine youre barreled in Bali or screaming down the line with everyone watching at Jeffries Bay. oh you
d LOVE pecking orders if you were anywhere near the top. Certain of those "phony media idols" used to be able to surf real hot too, and guess what- theyre getting old just like you are. you were once a kook-- so do you ever drop in on people you dont like? Fast forward the clock about 10 years and youll be even more pissed off. so get out of that rut and hit the road. Lots of cool places left that arent crowded and mellow. Youll feel better. You cant change the local dirtbags who never travel to new breaks, but you CAN change YOU. otherwise WHY surf if youre not happy? your name is SURFHUNGRY? then seize life, dude. grady
…that SURFHUNGRY is bitter about the surfing lifestyle and that Dale (as > honorable and esteemed as he is 'round these parts) still loves quoting > from a time warp that is so much gobbly gook. How many times can we land a > man on the moon and have somebody keep trotting out self serving fictional > manifestations (i.e. Paul Gross) of the moon shot.>>> “Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex… It > takes a touch of genius — and a lot of courage to move in the opposite > direction.” -A. Einstein fictional?are you a close friend of Greenoughs? have you spent years working with him on r&d?Paul doesn’t write or build on fiction.He doesn’t need to.If he does something in regards to George, it’s with George’s O.K.Because George may, in a sense, be naive to con artists, etc. his work, life and products could very easily be prime targets for misinterpretation, misrepresentation, and so on.Paul is aware of this and just wants to keep things simple and truthful. He has a tremendous amount of respect and dignity for George and would do nothing to benefit himself in the name of Greenough.Rather, he enjoys sharing what he has learned from his time with George with others,as it happened ,not as some would ike to think it happened. If you are into it great, if not,well take what you can from it and move on.I will tell you this, I have never intracted with either when I didn’t come away with some new, insightful bit of info in regards to surf craft and fins.enjoy!
Sorry guys, I thought this discussion was about"Diff" a true craftsman who knew about respect in the lineup. I didn’t realize it was a some sort of other forum about ego tripping.
SurfHungry, Think you’ve got your names mixed up with the Rich Chew > reference. You sure do have “the angry American white male” rant > down though. I have a copy of “the indictment”, a virtual who’s who of surfing and Rich Chew doesn’t appear in it anywhere.
SURFHUNGRY,>>> If the truth were known, in one way or another, every last one of us would > be disappointing as role models if held up to close scrutiny… > Thankfully, we do have a choice to look beyond all that tangled, negative > stuff, and see that there are still lots of good (not perfect) people in > this world worthy of trust and respect.>>> Not to make excuses, but, too many times the true value of integrity and > faith aren
t discovered until later in life, when the weight of many > yearspoor choices finally brings a person to their knees. Some of us > just seem to learn everything the hard way… better late than never, eh?>>> Steiny… yes, if only we all had your wise perspective! On role models, something half good is better than no good. I remember my X wife screaming at me “what are you, a hero to a bunch of 16 year olds?” yeh I was, better me than some gang bangers.>>> Dale
I have a copy of “the indictment”, a virtual who’s who of > surfing and Rich Chew doesn’t appear in it anywhere. if this is the same person i think it is, isn’t rich chew living a low profile life as a san clemente lifeguard, entering the odd ocean run/swim contest here and there, and captaining the sc city lifeguard squad?..
Sorry guys, I thought this discussion was about"Diff" a true > craftsman who knew about respect in the lineup. I didn’t realize it was a > some sort of other forum about ego tripping. you are right it started out as a great thread then somehow got off Diff. altogether,bringing in objects/subjects that really didn’t have much to do with Dif at all.I hope he is comfortable and able to hear/smell the surf if unable to feel it.