dimensions for compsands

Hey Everybody,

I’ve been reading pretty much everything under the sun about the compsands. Ever since bert first dropped that bomb on us (what an exciting and confusing time) I’ve been eagerly awaiting my first crack at making one, and it looks like that time is rapidly approaching. I’ve just finished building the joewoodworker venturi set up and picked up a new compressor, balsa is on it’s way via ebay. So it’s only a matter of time. Whenever I have downtime I hop on sways and brush up on knowledge. That being said I’m kind of curious about how people are shaping their compsands. I’d say that 90% of posts are on internal structure, and I know that this is far more important than shape (I’ve even read someone saying that they wanted to shape a door like board with square rails just to see how far the benefits of a good internal structure can be pushed) but I was curious what dimensions people were using. I know generalities: thinner, wider outlines, less volume in the rail. I was actually hoping for specific dimensions vs. people’s height and weight surfing ability etc. and maybe what dimensions they’d ride with poly construction. I’d also be really stoked if someone could pull a measurement at the midpoint maybe an inch in from the rail, because exactly how thin is thin? I’ll mostly be doing standard 6’3" thrusters, but my mind is oh so open.

If anything this would be a good place to post pictures of your beautiful creations with some general info about them, and maybe interesting learning experiences you had along the way.

Thanks,

Child

shape is more important to me than internal structure

and you can prety much build em thick and narrow if you want as well

i think the thin wide ones make a simple and efffective use of the materials.

but

you can make the materials work for thicker boards as well

you wouldnt go wrong building an exact duplicate of a poopee you like

if you have a light core and strong skins

it will work

ditto what Paul said…

shape and design are the most imprortant thing you could focus on than materials

shape and design can compensate for any type of materials enhancing the end product

focus on those two things and get them down so you can understand all the nuances of how they impact a boards performance and no matter what you build them out of you’ll come out with a winner.

this takes years of trial and effort though but it’s the truth believe it not.

skip the hype and focus on the impact of design

truth oneula!

the exciting part is ten or so boards down the track

you will notice design elements you have left out or need refinning

and things start to make alot more sense

and i guess this is just the beggining

you can start to apply design to materials in a way that they are more in harmony

at the very worst you will have a board that is tough as nails

one i have learnt is that just about every board i built, works well in some way in some conditions!!

if that makes sense

in saying that though

thin flyer type shapes seem to translate to the materials quite well

up tp 19 3/4 wide

up to 15 tail

wider nose

you can move some volume forward

hips

larger fatter fins

I know that people have been doing many different types of shapes, I was just speaking generally from most of what I’ve read.

Thanks Silly that’s the kind of stuff I was looking for here, but also I thought this would be a good place for people to showcase there work. Post pics and maybe some info on what they were going for, and most importantly things they learned along the way that could be useful to others.

middle one is favourite

and its 2 3/4 thick

left one is pictured below at finished width and 2 1/8 thick

both those are 19 3/4

one on the right is 20 1/4 wide and 2 3/16

the thick one is by far the best all rounder cuz its fast without effort and paddles well through the soup

the one on the right is fast but not as loose as the other two

the one on the left is fastest on rail to rail and really loose but doesnt catch waves as well as the thick one

if someone asked me what my perfect all rounder would be

it would be the middle one

if wanted to ride in slighty bigger surf as well, i might go a couple of inches longer.

and id do double 4 oz all over outside glass, cuz if its majic i want it to last for ever.

the board works best in 1 to 4 ft surf and ive ridden in almost double overhead mush ,although it was a bit skitish.


im with the dudes…design is still King of the hill.

everything youve said in your opening post is correct Child.

Unless youre an accomplished foam shaper its gonna take a while for you to get were you want to be.

What I would suggest is to build very similar boards, tweaking this and tweaking that, until you build a majic one. Bulk design changes will only frustrate you.

There’s no single best way to do it. A good starting point is to simply make a design that you know works for you (your favorite pupe) and trim down thickness and rail volume. Sounds simple…and it is.

Silly knows his shit…and I really like what Im hearing from Oneula these days.

Cheers

Hhhhmmm…

Been thinking about the sharper raisl thing a bit recently and I have (yet another) question.

Is this because the balsa rails (typically around 15mm thick) where they meet the skin tend to result in EPS showing through if the rails are too round?

Or does the material and construction actually result in a better product with sharper rails (all else being equal)?

And if it’s the latter why? Coz I don’t get that :smiley:

Feel free to PM me on this one if you prefer.

Quote:

Is this because the balsa rails (typically around 15mm thick) where they meet the skin tend to result in EPS showing through if the rails are too round?

answer.

no. build technique can prevent this

Quote:

Or does the material and construction actually result in a better product with sharper rails (all else being equal)?

answer.

i dont know

i feel that sharper rails you can get more drive from burying the rail and releasing .and so less reliant on fins

as opposed to speed from volume and planning area

but these principles would apply to any materials

what would happen if your rails were a kinda knife edge?

would you get more drive?

perhaps the stiffer wood ,allows thiner rails than a pu/pe,

with the same (or far more if desired) stiffness

alowing more drive from the thinness, without your rails flexing like noodles

if that makes any sense

my perfect board would be thick with thin rails

hmmm

maybe try a steped rail??

ps

dave thanks for the compliment.

i dont think its true .

but hey

we all need encouragement :slight_smile:

Hey Paul,

Yes - I’ve dreamed up a few ways build tech can be used to counteract it. My question was more open than a casual observer might think :slight_smile:

So you don’t know either :smiley: heehe! Yeah, all else being equal I can’t really see why.

So if it’s true I (we maybe?) are missing something.

Anyone else?

Hey D,

slightly thinner rail volume for better rail set with a more buoyant board…inspiration from Greg. If you put wood there, thick railed, combined with compsand const and youll get a stiffy. I dont like thin knify rails cuz theyre too sensitive…I like about the size of a pingpong ball but down.

My take was on volume which is theoretically different than profile geometry…if that makes sense…i dont think it does ???..hmm you can make a thick railed board with knify rails…like Brewer did back in the day hey…like a wakeboard rail on steroids.

Silly, yeah stepped…I like that.

uhh yeah that makes sense

i think

pingpong sounds just right

should i try a stepped rail on the new fish shape ?

thats 2 3/4 i could step down to a 1 inch rail

Hhhmmm… Sounds right for a shorty. And in the nose and tail of a longboard.

What about at the hips of a longboard? You don’t turn from there, tho you might side-slip. And I thought too sharp there could give tip riding issues.

I can see nearly 10mm gap on a regular longboard design at that point with fairly soft rails.

I don’t think I’d need to go to 25mm thick rails at this point to correct it (I reckon I already have that one nailed).

Yeah, stepped sounds interesting Silly. Could be a smoothed step, too.

the one thing about design I’ve learned from my all talks with griff comes down to two words…

“think release” , where as I used to believe it was “think pink” (staying relaxed mentally no matter the situation)

think release… as you envision the outline

think release… as you envision the rocker

think release… as you envision the bottom contour

think release… as you envision the tail

think release… as you envision the fin placement and design

think release… as you envision flex

but inorder to do that with any sense you have to first under stand how all these pieces are going to work togethor as a single unit factoring in the materials you’re going to make it from and THEN…

try and comprehend what the movement of the water will do as the board travels sideways in relation to the waterflow because as griff pointed out to me, your board almost rarely travels in a straight line linear relationship to the flow of the water which kind of blows wave tank and wind tunnel models used to design a surfboard.

I can see why it takes years to truly master this craft testing endless variations before you start to comprehend what you’ve built is actually doing in the water and then having the hand and eye skill sets to translate what you see in your mind into an exact not an almost exact reality.

The other important component is being able to test out your stuff yourself so you can directly feel the result and then have others not like you verify those results independantly before you can really start to believe your own hype. So a surfer who can really shape clean who has a wide variety of good surfing friends has the best opportunity to make a break through but it takes years perfecting this craft and to believe otherwise is kidding yourself. just ask the best of them. Cause in the end there’s no shortcuts even though we try and try to kid ourselves tha there are.

Just my take on the importance of design and trying to understand design wholeistically versus breaking everything into isolated components.

Quote:

uhh yeah that makes sense

i think

pingpong sounds just right

should i try a stepped rail on the new fish shape ?

thats 2 3/4 i could step down to a 1 inch rail

Hey Silly,

Do you think that if you did stepped rails that you’d leave a small gap between the PS and the top skin. It seems that if you mold the top skin around a step in the rail it would make the board incredibly stiff. The other alternative, using a thicker stringer may have similar results.

Some people have been using concave decks with some success. Kind of the reverse of what you were going for, but to make up for the thinness in the middle of the board you’d have to have thicker rails. This seems to counter what translate to the materials well. So am I missing something? What are the benefits of this design?

yeah oneula

i dig that

fostachild im not thinking an exagerated step

just a curve really

but yeah it might make it hard to pull down on to the core

as far as stiff rails go

thats all good

you gotta try it then make a guess about whats happening

all i know is i like high volume boards

and thin hard rails