Ding-Cover with cloth or not?

I’ve got a dinged area on my rail that’s more or less a couple of stress fractures rather then a ding or depressed area. My fingernail catches in a few areas of the fractures yet I’m fairly certain there has been no foam exposed. The board is epoxy and the area in question feels structurally sound with no give when pressure is applied. Would this be a good scenario whereby I could just cover with clear resin and not use any cloth? Possibly I should add some cabosil to the resin for a little extra strength?

I go with the general theory of ‘when in any doubt, use a little cloth’. It’ll keep the resin from flaking anyhow. I’d skip the cabosil, it just makes the resin opaque and such. Sand lightly, 80-100 grit, glass ( 4 oz. would be good ) with a good clear epoxy ( polyester resin eats styrene foam ) and a squeegee and then sand the edges and do a combined hotcoat/gloss after masking around the area you sanded. Remove the tape when the resin has started to gel. Wet sand the edges if you need to and you get a very good looking repair. hope that’s of use doc

Thanks for the advice Doc! Much appreciated. Brian

de nada, man. One thing I can’t emphasize too much, use a good clear surfboard/sailboard epoxy, not the …ahem, stuff is a nice way of putting it… that you’ll find in marine stores and such. I have used the RAKA brand quite happily, along with the System Three, though the stuff available ( see othert epoxy discussions in the archives) to full on surfboard builders is quite good, it’s not necessarily easily available to smaller guys like you and me. doc…

Doc, on the RAKA, are you using the 127 resin along with the 610 hardner?

Hi Brian, Lets see- I am using the 127 resin and the #350 non-blush hardener. I’m quite happy with it for repairs as it has a good viscocity to work with, goes off clear, and within a reasonable time. They claim it works in a wide range of temperatures and I haven’t found any reason to dispute that. Costs a little more, but considering the ding biz that’s not really an issue. I’d be a little nervous about the #610 fast hardener, as its pot life is kinda short and if I had several dings to do life could get quite entertaining. hope that’s of use doc

Thanks again Doc! I’ll take your advice and go with the 350 hardner. All the feedback on the Raka has been positive and considering you said you haven’t had problems with it going off clear is a big positive. I had initially used the Ding All Epoxy kit and could not get it to cure clear, only yellowish/brown. I’ve had the kit but don’t know if that would have made a difference.