Looking for help in how to feather a rail ding using fiberglass cloth. It always seems there is a big transition from the cloth to the
bare resin. Any suggestions and possibly using a different technique than dealing with the cloth would be interesting. If there is an existing resource here, or if anyone has advice it would be appreciated.
Also any tools and techniques on finalpolishing of the repair would be appreciated.
An easy way to feather a repair is to use multiple layers of cloth with each layer ‘stepped’ in size. Try to envision a stack of coins. Half dollar on the bottom, then a quarter, then a nickel, and so on.
Each layer creates a transition by virtue of the size difference. Use 4 oz cloth, or lighter.
Careful blocksanding unless you have a good touch with a machine.
I will try it, thank you. Not sure what weight of glass I am using, it is typical cloth that comes w/ the ding repair kit. Any idea if that is 4 oz or greater?
I would not know the weight of the cloth in kits. I have never used one.They are a ripoff.
But, if that’s all you have then it won’t prevent you from doing at least two layers in steps, as I described above.
Thanks again. It’s time for me to start getting better materials and step up my game.
Prep sand a nice crater/bowl into the glass around the ding but NOT all the way down to the foam (but close).
Cut your 1st piece of 4OZ cloth a little smaller then the crater you sanded.
Cut your 2nd piece of 4OZ cloth the same size as the crater you sanded.
Laminate the smaller piece of 4OZ cloth into the center of the crater.
Laminate the bigger piece of 4OZ next making sure you get it placed perfect in the crater right out to the edges.
Let the resin go off and then sand the outside edges of the ding cloth so it feels ALMOST flush with the rest of the board but still has a little bowl left.
Add the resin sand coat next and then sand smooth.
If it is a small area or you have plenty of time attack the high area with the edge of a razor blade held at a right angle to the ding. Try out magnifying glasses that can help you to de the details.
Howzit billy, I do it the way sammy explained because that way you won't sand through the largest patch on top which is the only glass that is overlapped the original glass. Aloha,Kokua
Many thanks for the kokua everyone. I tried the bigger piece on the bottom and it is coming along nicely. Now have to give it a finish coat of resin, wet sand it and then polish. Should be ready for the next swell forecast to arrive on Friday.
- Old's'cool.
Kokua,
Sammy’s way makes sense to me now…I stand corrected.
Howzit billy, Yes it's the way I have done them for ever and th beauty of it is you can keep adding layers of glass na then sand down to the right depth so in the end there is no lumps and the strength is still there, I will say that it is best to use the sam amount of layers as the original glass job since more layes make the area a little darker. I started doing ding repairs for a shop at the age of 15 and had been playing with it since I was 10 or 11 and that was a long,long time ago when you igure I am 62 1/2 now. Aloha,Kokua
Got another question about final sanding and polishing. I was thinking of progressively upping the grit count on the sandpaper working up to wetsanding at 800-1000. Then polishing with either white compound, 3m or surfboard polish. Any suggestions or tips? BTW, I am looking to buy a heavy duty sander/polisher like a Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee or Hitachi. Any thoughts on those as well? So until I get a solid polishing machine, likely will be doing the polishing by hand.