Ding repair (gloss coat question)

Hi all,

I’m a new member here and had a quick question. I just bought a barely used mini mal and it had a few dings on it that had been repaired (quite well actually). The board has a gloss coat but, as you’d expect, where the repairs were done it lost its finish.

I found this thread about restoring the gloss coat on a repair and it seems fairly straight foward:

http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1009786

My question is, could I use epoxy resin instead of the poly-sanding resin? The board is polyurethane/polyester but I wasn’t sure if you can use one with the other. I’ve noticed that the epoxy resin seems to cure with a glossy coat anyway, will it still need to be sanded and polished to get the desiered finsih?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Brian

YOu can use eposy to repair dings but forget about glossing with epoxy. I’m going through the epoxy glossing blues right now. Epoxy lays down really glossy and clear but once you sand it that shine never comes back, or at least I haven’t had success. I wetsanded sanded down to 1000 and am using various polishes. No luck. It always looks a little cloudy and, in my case, splotchy, like there are hand prints all over it. Going to try one more brand of polish and then, say “F…k it!”

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sounds like i’ll go the sanding resin route then

cheers!

Get a rattle can of clear (usually polyurethane paint) from an auto supply place like Autozone or Kragen. Duplicolor brand works good. After about 24 hrs drying, blend it in with a piece of scotchbrite pad (green or purple) and compound buff it. Don’t get it too hot with the buffer.

Does the poly paint have the same finish when done as the resin gloss?

Polyurethane paint is a clear gloss and you blend it into the surrounding resin gloss with the scotchbrite pad. From 2 feet away, you can’t tell the difference if you’re blended right. With rattlecans, the spray is very coarse and blending is harder. If this is an expensive board, just use gloss resin.

Hi all

bringing this post back. I have since used sanding resin/acetone to restore the “gloss” job over the few repairs I had made. And, due to my inexperience, needed to do quite a bit of sanding to blend the new gloss flush with the surrounding board. So now my “gloss” repair has a sanded finish again, grrrr!

I had sanded using 100, 150, 220 grit, which is where I stopped. I then tried using Turtle Wax Polishing compound and some elbow grease to shine it up a bit, bit this did little if anything. 

Can anyone recommend how to restore the shinny gloss coat? I have seen posts recommending Sureluster, but I can’t find it anywhere online or locally (i’m in RI). Should I sand more, up to like 800grit? then polish with car polish?

Thanks in advance for the help!

b

Dupont Rubbing Compound, and Dupont Polishing Compound.    You probably don't need to sand finer than 600.   Finish up with your Turtle Wax.

Thanks Bill

So let me get this straight…sand to 600, apply Dupont rubbing compound, then apply Dupont polishing compound then Turtle Wax ?

Do I use a buffer with the Dupont stuff or can I do it by hand?

In the long ago past, (balsa era) I did it all by hand.   My first ''rubbing compound'' was Ipana Tooth Powder.   It worked quite well.   If you use a buffer to do the job, make sure to keep the speed slow, and the surface somewhat wet, to avoid ''burning'' the polished surface.

excellent! Thanks again

220? I sand to twelve hundred then use turtle wax polishing compound. It almost looks 100% … Most people are impressed and think I got it perfect. I can see where it isnt though. I LOVE wet sanding though. I sand from 36 to 80 to 120 to 180 (all dry) to 220 to 400, 600, 800, 1200. You miay think some of these are unnecessary, but sanding is my thing and I’ve dialed in what works best for me. I’ve got an autobody background and for two years all I did was black limos. 6-10 foot metal panels with numerous dings that needed to be perfectly flat and shine like new. I can sand.

Sometimes Ill go dry 180 then wet 180. Depends.