Hi Greg,
If you sanded through the paint before hitting any weave there’s a good chance it was sprayed after the hot/fill coat then cleared with Pro-tec or similar. Just looking at your piccy that looks like the case with your project.
If it is the case, sand back your filler like normal to finished repair to about 400 wet & dry, match the colour and mask up and spray and clear and finish sand or polish.
Now, colour matching. This is not a simple subject and takes a lot of practice to but with a bit of a system you can get really close even on your first time.
The best thing to do is find a colour wheel, even a basic one but with at least the secondary colours.
The trick to colour matching is finding the right hue (colour) so in your case it’s an orange/yellow(?) so you would be looking at an orange to start with. Look at your colour wheel and see if the colour is warmer than orange or cooler (i.e. more red or more yellow). There is a brown tinge jugding from your photo so a bit of dark blue (like a drop or two) to ‘darken’ the orange may help. But I’m getting ahead of myself a bit so back on track.
Ok, you have found the right (or close as possible, basically a simple orange) hue and you mixed it up. Now, is it a bright orange or a dull orange or ‘really’ strong orange or not?
The trick to change this is to use the colour directly ‘opposite’ on the colour wheel (called the complementary colour). What this does is neutralise the colour, in theory if you did this exactly in equal parts you would create grey, this goes for all colours!
Remember I mentioned blue before? it’s on the other side of the colour wheel but this is what you need to experiment with and try to NOT use black! it will take all the life out of your colour, use the darkest blue/green/purples depending on which way the colour needs to go, i.e. warmer or cooler remembering that reds are warm and greens are cool (yellow and blue, the opposite of red 
). Because you are not using the ‘exact’ complementary colour you will create a different colour (this is the brown tinge you want).
This is a tough subject to explain in a short post but just keep in mind that you are ‘pushing’ the colour around the colour wheel either way to get the right hue, then you can push the colour in/out of the wheel using the complementary or opposite colour to change the contrast and tweak the hue.
The colour wheel is 3 dimensional so the other dimension is black and white or up and down the wheel. As i mentioned before though, be very careful using straight black and use white to ‘lighten’ your colour or take it back a peg so you can ‘push’ it around a bit more to perfect your hue.
Ok, the colour looks close, now spray a test patch and let it dry completely, colour changes quite a bit from wet to dry, again this takes a bit of tweaking. Cut yourself some strips of good paper, spray the end of a piece and let it dry then using it like a colour swatch, sit it against the existing colour to see how it looks. Rinse and repeat unitll you are happy with the colour and then finish your job.
After doing this only a few times keeping the colour wheel and how it works in mind you will find it surprisingly simple to match colours and you will soon be able to see what colours you need and get it right very quickly.
Apart from browns, purples and skin tones (which use a lot of one or two primarys in most cases or are hard to mix properly given just primary colours) you will find you can get by with a very limited range of basic colours and save yourself a lot of money and waste less paint!
In fact, for any colour you mix always make sure you mix more than you need, even twice as much as you will find that it will be pretty close to another you may need on your next repair (especially for ‘yellowing’ boards ) and in no time you will have a good palette of colours at no extra cost.
Hope that gets you started and let us know how you get on, cheers.
Mick.
