Discussion on technique, shortboards, single fin mid lengths, and weight loss.

Hey all, thought I would pick your brains on surfing technique. Here is my background- I’ve been surfing a singlefin mid length exclusively for the past 2 years after shortboarding 5 yrs before that with 3 years on a longboard in the beginning. I’ve also lost over 25 pounds in the last year. I surf northern California beachbreaks with maybe average or below average ability.

I recently started shortboarding again and I’m finding that my approach to shortboarding has changed (maybe for the better?) I’m finding that Im not really pumping the board anymore but just turning up into the upper 3rd of the wave and hanging there for a second or so and that seems to build enough speed to keep moving, make sections, cutback ect. This seems to give me a chance to also observe the wave more and plan my next move. It also seems to smooth things out a little, using the waves power to keep me moving vrs pumping as quick as I can to move around the wave. I"ve also noticed that after having to shuffle back and forth on the mid length I’m moving around on the shortboard more, getting more down the line projection when the stance is more forward and lifting the nose higher out of the water and getting a tighter arch when turning the board with my stance further back. My shortboards were shaped for me when I was 25 lbs heavier so maybe that has to do with the less pump, more trim. My shortboards are also quads with a pretty flat rocker.

So my questions to you all is this- Does it sound like my surfing technique is on the right track or regressing? Should I get back in the habit of agressivly pumping? Any bad habits to avoid? Any advice on continuing to improve? Any honest input would be great! Thanks

My wax smears and pressures indicate that I keep my front foot relativly still and my back foot goes over the front fins when I want speed and over the rears when I want to do a manuver. I walk all over the longboard and I have my rear foot over the front fins on my gun. I just lost 20 pounds too. 

 I always thought that quads liked a stance that is a little further forward but my turns definitely seem to be improving with my back foot further back. Did you change any of your boards after the weight loss?

I get fat every winter and have 12 boards. It’s my yearly pattern and the quiver adgusts for it. Quads in my opinion at least with the way I make them need to be surfed off of the tail.

The most important thing you've done, is to get into the upper one third of the wave.    That is where your board and fins can tap into more of the energy and power of the wave.

Thanks. It’s made a difference for sure. I think before I was pumping more toward the middle of the face.

Bill gave me the same advice about using the top third of the wave many years ago…it made a big difference to my surfing. I’ve since passed the advice onto others who all showed significant improvement as soon as they did it. It works.

[quote="$1"]  (1) ...Does it sound like my surfing technique is on the right track....?        (2)....Should I get back in the habit of agressivly pumping? [/quote]

(1)    Yes.

(2)    No.

 On the subject of weight loss--

My dad always says--

 It only gets in one way...


 Good to know! Thanks for indulging me everyone.