do you believe in magic?...just a little?

the beards of contempletive science

ensconced in wood paneled rooms

debate at length

the profundities.

The stewards of the elements conjure

majique at every turn.

for the hours spent with logic and algorythms

is there much that we have learned?

an hour in nature

amongst the elementals

could not mark us all

as men of great learning

whilst within the wood paneled walls

lies unrequited yearning.

…ambrose…

I heard god

was out surfing

last evening

I missed it.

An evening walk at the mouth of the Wailua

A round stone in the sand

Smooth and shiney,

dense and black.

A totem or an icon?

A tear from Pele?

Surely a sign from god

The Sculptor has no equal

majique at every turn.

I walk the same path

heft the same stone.

The weight, the color, the flecks of green

speak of the volcanic birth

of magma rich in iron and magnesium silicate

of the recycled ocean floor

melted by a plume of unimaginable heat

a flare in the firey bowels

of Mother Earth

Of olivine growing in a glowing soup

magnetically aligned

then frozen in time

layer upon layer until

Kauai emerges from the ancient sea

A sign post in

the wood paneled rooms

A beacon that tells

of a plate shifting

its track

at the birth of the mighty San Andreas

A stone that tells of

the earthquake that shook

the mountain

sifting debris to the valley below

or of a river that cut

deep into the Sleeping Giant

or the floods that washed the rock

a few feet at a time

Or the waves that polished the basalt

with shells, sand and coral

into the round shiney stone

for you to find on a walk

at the mouth of the Wailua

Who’s to say who saw more

or felt

the pulse of nature.

That a single stone could speak so much

to those in the wood paneled room

and say so little

to those who choose not to listen.

Yes. This is all magic.

I hear you ambrose.

Nothing wrong with a heated debate…but at some point the Poindexters need to take off their lab coats, put down their slide rules…and go jump in the water and see what’s really happening.

amen to all of the above.

in the words of thoreau, ‘every walk in the woods is a religious rite, every bath in the stream a saving ordinance.’ i wonder what he would have written had he ever surfed.

surfing, at least for me, is a very spiritual activity. i’m more interested in the metaphysics than the physics.

&, yes ambrose, i do believe in magic, what aslan king of narnia calls ‘the deep magic from before the dawn of time.’

still prefer these local classics…

“chaloookyu eensai” (Try Look You Inside!) and Avebade Bade (Everybodys Body)

by Jozuf “Bradajo” Hadley

excerpts of universal truth…

"I watching da rain on top da wind

only smallkine rain, dis one

it make plenny smallkine spot of wata

and den one spot, he like marry da adda spot, eh?

and den bumbai get family

dey rolling down da window."

or

"I was sit down on top one rock, eh?

eenside da bushes

for I like be quiet, eh?

ovah dea."

feels like IZ singing

the rest of this hyperbole on god’s truth of design stuff is giving me a migraine.

straight lines and angles exist much more disgustingly in life than on paper.

An unexpected salt water enema or sinus flush every now and then does wonders for the brain

Actually I’m a Lit BA. Romantic, pantheistic, transcendentalist, like that. I will take up a sharpened quill against a poindexter though, if he’s selling a bag of manure about something I am passionate about. My totem animal is the alligator, okay? Dig it or not.

" an hour in nature

amongst the elementals

could not mark us all

as men of great learning"

…all the theory , “physics” and mass debating that has been going on here lately will not help your rail hold in on a bottom turn , you make a section , or even help you paddle , if there is no “practical unit” being undertaken . Riding a board , not just ‘theorising’ about it .

ben

" Nothing wrong with a heated debate"

PLENTY wrong with a heated debate .

It takes all the stoke out of coming here .

ben

Yeah, where the hell can I get an orange wettie from?

spray can .

Sheez! that easy - thanks again Swaylocks

Quote:
PLENTY wrong with a heated debate .

I’m going to have to start a debate on that with you.

great maji possess understanding

dey cry of their incomplete knowlege

some times a smoke screen

revealing an incremental

fact at a time

alowing apprentices

an oppertunity

to learn to learn.

olivene?

was andreas

pele’s lover?

by another name

one might choose to think so

did pele open the cleft

or was maui andreas?

You know Maui…

he was the one who pulled hawaii up from

the bottom of the ocean

while his brothers paddled

[what a painting]

black stones where wailua meets the sea

are very rare.

most common when humans

introduce river bed stones

to the sand mantle.

smoothe and shiny?

a tool left at the city of refuge

perhaps to polish a watercraft

fallen to the sand

apprehended

before

disapearing

into

the abyss of sand

that fills the rivermouth cleft

See the sand of wailua

proceed out to sea in even drifts

underwater to the depths

unmolested

by the coral ,

that coral

cannot survive

in fresh water.

the water runs green at the wailua

I thought it was green

because it was water

that was fresh not salty

like the blue water outside

fresh?

could it be the olivine?

now I might suspect

particulates are in play

…ambrose…

    .

Yeah, I remember my first acid trip.

So, do you think there are to many master debaters here?

no, just mass debaters

( )

with little sense of humour

so …as the signature says …


Quote:

…all the theory , “physics” and mass debating that has been going on here lately will not help your rail hold in on a bottom turn , you make a section , or even help you paddle , if there is no “practical unit” being undertaken . Riding a board , not just ‘theorising’ about it .

Ah yes but without the examination of many things in the downtime the water time will suffer. Angry debate is merely argument, but real debate and exchange is a Third Eye Opener. I can think of at least two occasions that simple statements have pulled my concepts of certain aspects of surfing inside out…something which rarely, if in fact ever, happens at a beach anymore, at a surf shop, and certainly never did at a trade show.