in 05 i knew i was sick(cancer) .
it wasn't dx yet.........but(being a veteran nurse for 30 yrs) when you're passing/vomiting up pints of blood,,,,, and have wounds that won't heal............i pretty much knew what was up.
so i surfed my ass off as if there was no tomorrow.............huge big sur............so big THAT everyone else got out of the water........ when i paddled out.
took on big mavs,hawaii...................then a moment of clarity...............
trips to mex for tx,
died on the table.
came back to life.........
............SPENT ALL MY INHERITANCE++++++++
.....3yrs later......no signs of ca...........cured as the term goes.
..............now...................
i see things in a different light....................
surfing is great and all,but
it's the people down the road that you meet,and of course family that's what really counts...................
.......................that's what makes life worth living.
................................now days surfing is not so important to me personally.......................................
i can love it or leave it................and wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
but i tell you true....................
i have done things on surfboards(or skateboards) that most people only dream of doing.
herb..................what a long stranger trip it's been !