[quote="$1"] ''... surf 'til my arms can't paddle no mo'...'' [/quote]
A most worthy ambition.
We are on a “Bucket list” adventure now. All I want is WARM water fun waves with a few friends…http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f303/obaceman/Ecuador%202011%202012/?albumview=slideshow...Check it out as we go .Back in a few months…ACE
At 53 I’ve become less grand (or selfish?) in my wants and needs. Like others here I want more time with family and friends. It’s always special when the beach and surfing factor into the equation. I’d like to catch my “local cape” on a SSE swell as often as possible. Never had a bad time there even when it was flat. Last night I broke down my first shape and will begin the chambering process today weather permitting. I will continue shaping wood b/c I’ve enjoyed my first experience. It re-emphasizes the value of patience. The wood tells the story of when I was slow, thoughtful, and deliberate and when I was hasty. So I’d like to continue to work wood and improve under your tutelage (either directly or through lurking). I appreciate the help from the Sway’s group. I haven’t seen any mention of world peace and harmony, so I’ll toss that in…
Happy Sunday and Cheers!
You know that is so cool Chrisp. My Mom always told me this quote.
Any man can father a child, but it takes a real man to be a Daddy.
My girls still call me Daddy other then when their friends are around. I can’t have it all. Enjoy
Thanks Sano, I appreciate that. Congratulations on your daughters, sounds like you did well.
Me and my baby girl are best friends. I work odd hours and have her all day every day. We have a blast!
Surfing time, sleep, and other things have suffered for the last 3 years (I’m in the worst shape of my life) BUT, it’s been the most rewarding thing I’ve ever done.
Think your sleep has suffered now wait till they find out about pencil dick little boys. Then you’ll know what I’m talking about. When ya have little boys you only have one dick to deal with. When have little girls ya have every dick in town to loss sleep over.
Enjoy the moment it only last a second
Never new what a bucket list was untill that movie came out. But for sure I had a list that started in Vietnam. When I saw my cosin Bobby in the Army hospital in Danang it became clear to me how precious life is and how quickly it can be lost. I promissed Bobby I would spend my entire life living and not just existing. My list was long, very,very long. Sail in tropical oceans, surf secluded islands, build a sailboat,build my own house , be a cabinetmaker, a studio furniture maker, be a woodturner , snow board deep powder. Surf Pipeline, Waimea,Makaha, Chuns, Alamo. The list would change as time passed adding new things as they came along, Like wind surfing really big waves,doing loops while windsurfing, Kite surfing and getting 30 ft of air and loops. I didnt want to just do these things but wanted to be good at them. The most important thing was to go back to Vietnam and stand on the exact same spot where my STATCAT team was blown up by a 122mm rocket. Its the one thing that I gave up on! But when president Clinton ended the Vietnam embargo in 1995 I found my self standing on that exact spot in the exact footsteps. These are the bigger things on my list, there were lots of little things. When I read Bill Thrailkills post it made me think if there is anything left on that list. Well there is only one major thing left. Of coarse there are a couple little things like finish my Koi pond and my new car port and enjoy sitting out there and enjoying the waterfalls and watching the Koi grow. Of coarse the on going thing is I get in the water every day and I need to finish up on my fish SUP board and get out there and catch fish. Need to stay healthy and on the water and would like to build one more small sail boat. The big final thing on my list is to have my ashes scatterd . Half of them on the ocean in Kauai waters and half of them in the green rice fields of Ha Tinh Vietnam. I know that will happen cause my wife and step son will take care of that ! Hoa Binh- Wood-ogre
surf and canoe surf till too old,way old like Woody(90 when he went out for the last time)and Ole(still surfs,in his 80’s),and die with my boots on, on the beach after a surf session,not bed ridden in a fricken hospital.
i would like to get really tubed at moss landing a few times on some of the 6’ - 8’ days
i would like to get some 4’ south swell tubes at sewer peak
i would like to go back to indonesia and get tubed at bankvaults and rifles
all my surfing is geared around the bucket list. i surf moss a lot but get skteched out when it hits 6’ and i don’t really know how to find the tubes. i surf alone, meaning i don’t bring buddies with me, so i feel like i am trying to figure shit out by myself. it’s fun, but i wish i knew what i was doing sometimes. i guess that is life in a nutshell though, yeah?
[quote="$1"]
Enjoy the moment it only last a second
[/quote]
San-O, you've posted up some good advice recently, but regarding watching your children grow up, this is probably the best tidbit yet. As a father to a 23 year old son, I can relate, it's a blink of an eye.
- Surf DOH Lennox Point on a board I shaped myself
- Surf with my children (3 & 1, not long now) - Love that photo ChrisP
- Do a boat trip to somewhere out of the way, if such a thing still exists, with my brothers, and surf and fish for an uninterrupted fortnight.
- Set myself up a house and custom-built shaping bay on 50 acres and go off the grid
- Build a hollow wood board that actually floats and catches waves
- Surf until I can no longer draw breath
Surfthis I’m glad it made the point I wanted it to. Our kids are only a big part of our lives for a very little time. Enjoy it before it has passed.
My Bucket list needs a up date. I want to teach my grandkids to surf. That would be it
Thirdshade bucket list:
- Make a flawless board (just one would suffice…)
- Get barrelled enough to develop a barrel riding technique
- Get a standup barrel on the board that Bill Thrailkill has just made me…
- Surf indo
- Surf with my kids (currently aged 1,3 and 6)
- Teach all the guys I make boards for how to do their own repairs
Cheers
Rich
www.thirdshade.com
Mike it sounds like me except my Father came home in the summer of 77" and I was already graduated from High School.
Growing up in Huntington Beach I read the North Shore Stories all my surfing life. My Dad told our family we are moving to Hawaii!
We did not put up a fight.
Ended up living on the beach at V-Land then latter to Rocky Point just across Kam Hwy.
Parents move to Kailua and my siblings had to go to school (Hawaii is scary for Haloes) I surfed everyday.
Sure it got crowded back then however it would blow out and everyone would head back to town.
Late afternoon glass offs with no crowds was a common occurrence.
Early Nineties Living in France. Not bad and the crowds were manageable.
Mid 90’s living in Chile surfing large Left Point Breaks. Cheap and uncrowded. (If you haven’t surfed Chile put it on your list)
Mid to late 90’s while living in Guatemala the surf was really good with no crowds. Costa Rica was a quick plane ride.
Early 2000’s Scorpion Bay, Cabo amazing fun stuff.
Here we are in 2012 and I just got back from French Polynesia. So far I would say the best waves cleanest water and nicest people.
This is out 200 miles northwest of the capitol of Tahiti.
I’m 53 years old now. If I was in my 20’s or 30’s I wish I would have done INDO.
My sons and nephews bring me clips of there boat trips. (Teasers)
My bucket list would be to surf SANO, RINCON.
Like Mike I have a few friends that died from poor decisions concerning Life’s choices.
I also have friends that have done extremely well.
For those of you who can take that surf trip and live the dream before it passes you by.
If your stuck dawn patrol at your local break is the next best thing.
Kind regards,
surfding
a few of my items on the list are still un-done.
i never did get as far as i would have liked in my acting career.
and ............so,i plan on possibly venturing back into that aspect of my life again.
oh ya,
the peace one gets from helping others...................
..........i'm never finished there.
herb
[quote="$1"]
oh ya,
the peace one gets from helping others...................
..........i'm never finished there.
herb
[/quote]
Hi Herb
Does helping include sending the promised superchargers to that long list of wanna-have people wordwide?
Just poking ... http://www2.swaylocks.com/comment/1322756/Re-jeffrey-herb-spitzers-superchargers
Wouter
I know what you mean SD. I saw the sun rise out of the Southern Ocean on Sunday morning, a light offshore feathering the lips of the 3-4 foot A-frames and only two other guys out, on a day that would eventually push 40 degrees C (104F). I thought to myself “this is what it’s all about”, and then the dolphins arrived…
Kava - Why do you put your boots on when you are still on the beach? 
For me, to keep it simple: Nias (Lungandri bay (sp?)) [my goal for this coming summer], J-Bay… next hand full of years or so.
Few I happened/worked into - not that I had a list when young, just places and things I always wanted to do: Big Rincon, Lunada Bay, Malibu (once on a swell that showed up early late in the day… Score!), Honolua Bay, Maaleea Harbor, Alamo, Kiasers, Hanalei, Big Whale Cove on a big day (A local Oregon spot that holds up to @ 4xOH, which many guys looked at when I was young, moved away, 20+ years later moved back, and have surfed it a good couple handfull of times)
Make my own boards which do what I want to do!!! (Thanks to “Uncle” Dale Solomonson for not giving up on getting me to get on here… Ha!)
Oh, and speaking of Swayloholix love… Make it back to the Swayloholix Annonamous again…
like i said: never finished..........................
it's the mailing part i hate anymore++++++++++the costs out-of-country.
i still have an un-finished list here...........i wish you guys could just pull up and drop in.
i could fill you vehicles up with all kinds of building materials.
wouter,
i'll make it my 2012 goal to ship everyone's(on the list that is) sc's.
frankly,i did think anyone cared enough about them.......... to even venture forth in that avenue.
i wish some mfg. would make ssc's to my specs and ...........heck i'd buy them !!!!!!!
i even have a board or two i could let go.
i'm not going crazy...............just making more room for more crap..............lol.
herb