Hey Herb,
Why don’t you have somebody make em and then sell em through e-bay or what not?
I am sure some swaylockers have mad casting skills!
What kind of crap is coming in in 2012?
And how about the finless induction board, is it still getting ooh-s and aah-s [and big slashes?]
Ciao!
I’ve come late to this thread. Saw the heading and went, “Yeh, a bunch of guys spouting out about spots they want to surf.”
I ended up reading the entire thread today and really enjoyed it. Most of my sentiments have already been said. I’ve been lucky enough to travel and surf a fair bit (US, UK, HI (Ohau, Kauai, Hawai’i), , Costa Rica, almost all of South Africa (including epic Bruces Beauties, J Bay, the Bay, and Elands), Portugal, Bali, and quite a few bits of Australia), and in the fortunate position of being able to take on some challenging waves and not drowning. After 40 years involvement with the ocean, and over 35 as a dedicated kneeboarder, my ambitions have shrunk to having enough time to get some waves and seeing my son in the surf on a standup I make him. (Kneeboarding is like sex - you need to make your own informed decision about whether you’re ready.)
Mate, I hate to break this to you, but kneeboarding is a lot harder on the body and it’s a real bugger to figure out how to do a decent turn. But if you start now, you’ll be able to find friendly fellow kneeboarders who are long on stories and most likely somewhat strange (yes, a secret retro code of fellowship does exist!). At 52 I’m getting too inflexible and weak for kneeboarding, so I reckon I’ll be standing up more in the future ;-) but just one more filthy 5 second pit…
I got back into surfing in '96 after a 20 year layoff. My buddy and I rented a couple boards in Hawaii to see if we could still do it. He was much better than me, which inspired me to work my ass off and improve. We both ended up with a quiver of longboards and surfed from Alaska to Costa Rica, dragging our wives along, all the while having a ball. ALS took him 3 years ago and I promised him to ride every wave for us as long as I could.
My original goal was to surf until age 70. Turned 69 last week, so I’ve pushed that goal up to 80
I saw the sun rise out of the Southern Ocean on Sunday morning, a light
offshore feathering the lips of the 3-4 foot A-frames and only two
other guys out, on a day that would eventually push 40 degrees C (104F).
CassS I had days like that before school. So pure the memories that no one can steal away. My bucket list has come to an end as all I have left is the times that I had in my youth. For those who dream of bliss just live it while you still can. Material things will not last only memories of our experiences will.
The ever lightness of being!
Kind regards,
surfding
Howzit Bill,I was lucky to have done almost everything on my list before my surfing demise and 1 of the things I didn't get to was surf Indo. Aloha,Kokua
Billy - great story, I think I'll post it up on my Surfers Over 50 blog http://surfersover50.blogspot.com/, if you don't mind.
i see things in a different light…
surfing is great and all,but
it’s the people down the road that you meet,and of course family that’s what really counts…
…that’s what makes life worth living.
…now days surfing is not so important to me personally…
i can love it or leave it…and wouldn’t lose any sleep over it.
herb…what a long stranger trip it’s been !
Word!
Long time ICU nurse too. i’ve seen where we’re all going to go many times. For those that go I’m pretty sure it’s fine - it’s the rest of us that stress.
My best surfs are right out front with my kids and/or anyone else whose stoked. I’ve had my share and I don’t worry too much about it any more - but I’ll still go as big or small as it gets until it’s my turn.
Would like to do an off the beaten track to Indo trip with my kids before they’re off on their own journey though.
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